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C30 light track usage

2K views 7 replies 2 participants last post by  MyNameIdeasWereTaken 
#1 ·
I recently acquired one of these things in very good condition (for now) and want to keep it good as log as I can, but I also want to track it.
I don't really want to go out and beat the hell out of it but I'm not going to be very nice to it either.
Has anyone else here ran theirs on track close to stock?
My main concerns are oil temperature and starvation mid cornering, are these an issue with this car?
I was kind of planning on bypassing the water cooled oil cooler and instead building a separate cooling system with it's own pump and radiator. I'm not sure if it would be worth the effort, but it's certainly cheaper than any aftermarket solution I've seen.
Also planning on an oil temperature gauge before I even go on track.
 
#2 ·
Keep it stock and it'll be even more reliable on track than if you modified it.

Oil temp has never been an issue for me, even running "Stage 3+." Slap on an external oil cooler if you're really worried about it, but I wouldn't be concerned with a stock tune.
Oil starvation is not a common issue with these cars either. Maybe a really really long sweeper will cause a problem, but these inline 5 cylinders are pretty capable without much modification.

Good tires, good brakes, upgraded brake fluid, Stage 0, and the car will be ready to go.
Oil temp gauges are good, I would strongly suggest you install a boost/vac gauge as well, and then a wide band A/F ratio gauge if you do tune.

If your car is auto, then you may want to consider an external transmission fluid cooler as well. The AW55 gets hot with excessive high RPM shifting for more than 20 minute spurts.
 
#3 ·
Yeah the car is close to stock right now, previous owner put on a full intake and a stupid loud annoying 3in catback which all probably does nothing due to the ECU being torque based but oh well.
It's also a manual car yeah.

Any tips on the brakes? I went out and abused it last weekend and after about three 2nd gear pulls downhill on a winding road, the brakes got very faded. I'm sure the pads are just crap.
 
#4 ·
Hawk pads are great, do some research on their offerings to determine which pad will meet your needs for street and track. You don't want a race pad on a street car.

Nothing wrong with stock rotors. Slotted are good if you're tracking in the rain. I avoid drilled due to noise and some tracks not allowing them.
I just run the factory rotors from FCP Euro for their lifetime replacement.

Motul RBF 660 fluid is an absolute must. That will be your ultimate saving grace to avoid any brake fade.

I don't consider stainless steel lines to be a necessity. They will prevent any line expansion with heat, but you have to really be cooking your brakes to notice that effect.
But for light track duty and just around town, they make no difference.
Stainless steel lines are a worthwhile upgrade when your stock lines are due for replacement.

Lastly, I would suggest the Volvo 320mm front brake setup. These can be found for fairly cheap, common on the AWD S40/V50, P1 C70, Mazda Speed 3, and Focus ST. A bit more rolling mass with the rotor and a tad more weight from the calipers, but the 320s provide more than enough stopping capabilities with the right pads and fluid. I used to have the Wilwood 6 piston front brakes and eventually sold them and went back to the Volvo 320s. The Volvo 320s have never left me desiring any more from the brakes, though I do put a heavy emphasis on engine braking and running sticky tires so I don't have to slow down for the turns.
 
#5 ·
ah, cool, Yeah I figure every car has it's own niche upgrade here and there. I was actually looking at Hawk pads earlier as well.
I would assume the larger calipers bolt on directly? I guess then if anything fits a focus st, it would fit this car too then?
 
#6 ·
Yes, the Volvo calipers are a direct bolt on. You need the 320mm caliper brackets as well, which can come from Ford or Volvo.
Usually, used calipers will include this bracket.

Most Focus ST suspension parts bolt right on. There are weight differences to account for with shocks/struts/springs though.

I would also suggest upgrading the rear sway bar if you haven't already. That will really transform how the car corners.
 
#7 ·
Yes I'm trying to hold off on spending tons right after buying the car but a swaybar and some tires are first on the list.
I was just going to get a used 07-09 mazdaspeed3 rear.

I also noticed you're one of the few that have done an awd conversion haha, That's something I'm considering a while into the future.
I was just wondering on that, what exactly was stopping you from using a combination of c30 and s40 components for the rear struts? just the knuckle itself?
Did you figure out the fuel gauge reading problems?
have you had a chance to weigh the car to see what the added weight is?
 
#8 ·
I'm not sure what you mean about the rear shocks. The FWD coilovers swapped right over, though had to be nearly maxed out on the AWD subframe. The shocks swapped over as well, You just need to use the AWD upper shock mounts, as they are slightly angled.

Still no solution for the fuel gauge, but it's not much of a concern. The gauge just reads full until you're down to the last 1/4 tank, then the gauge sweeps as normal for that last 1/4. So basically, as soon as the needle moves off full, you know you're driving on the last quarter tank. That's enough visual indication for me.

My AWD swap came at the time of a full rebuild from a shell of a C30. It's stripped and track ready. The car weighs less than 3000lbs wet. No idea what the AWD component added weight was, but if I had to guess, probably about 150-200lbs in total. With most of that weight being added to the rear, so helping the front to rear weight ratio. It's not a huge weight sacrifice in exchange for rear wheel power.
 
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