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Rear Wheel Bearing Bolts

7K views 24 replies 7 participants last post by  d_eagz13 
#1 ·
So I am getting ready to redo my rear wheel bearings.

Volvo calls for an etorx 999478 for the FWD guys, and an 999479 for the AWD guys (standard torx bolt).

Has anyone used 8.8 or 10 bolts M10x30 in their place? I am trying to think of what would be better and easier to remove the next time this job gets done since the majority of the strain is on the bearing lip into the arm directly, and not the bolts. I do not want to go buy an etorx setup if a standard 6 point bolt would do, and I do NOT like torx bits so I do not want to replace like with like.
 
#3 ·
Hey I recognize that snark! It is like looking in a mirror!

 
#5 ·
How many miles do you have? You may not ever need to replace it again but I understand not wanting to use a Torx bolt. Also since you're a MechE, I'm sure you've heard of McMasterCarr, but this is what I might consider using and they are relatively cheap. I would just double check the clearances and make sure that you can fit a 17mm socket in the location.

https://www.mcmaster.com/93635A424
 
#6 · (Edited)
On everything but the engine - 193000. On the engine - 76000. Minus the bits and bobs I have replaced over the years as they wore out.

Given the plastic deformation strength of 8.8's, which would have a safety factor of about 2-3 - I am going to put in 10.9's if I can source them locally and have a safety factor of 3-4. In all my work I have never seen volvo use above a 10.9 and their bolts aren't marked for this location, so better safe than sorry I guess.
 
#7 ·
#9 ·
So checked some flanged M10x30 1.50 TP bolts today and they are a hair too wide. The flange rides up the side of the bearing housing by about 2mm, so those are a nogo.

Ace (courtesy of the covids) said the Hillman Nuts N Bolts guy hadn't been by in a long time so they were empty on a lot of specialty sizes/grades, so not shocked they were out of regular hex head M10x30 10.9 guys.

Regular Hex Head w/ a washer would fit without an issue. This weekend I will pop one of the rears off and see if I can feel how long the space is around the axle, they had some 35mm long regular hex guys in stock, which would do the job. Otherwise, etorx it is.
 
#11 ·
I popped the cap off the rim center bore and took a drive into work one morning (60mi, 53 of that on the highway) - both fronts measured 30.1*C in the hub and my rears measured 50.5 and 58.1*C according to my IR Thermometer. This is in addition to a weird audible ticks so fast they sound like a buzz on the highway when I am next to the wall and roll down my back window that is related to speed.

Since the Torx bolts are still holding it in, there is a reasonable chance that it is the original rear bearings from the first owner. If the bearing went bad in the first two years of ownership, it's a small amount of time, but IIRC volvo switch to the ETorx in 2008... 194,000mi it's had a good life.
 
#15 ·
Well, Volvo's etorx guys are Grade 10.9, so it's a wash as to which to pick anyways.

Now that I have half the job done - I have a question - I found myself with two seized (and therefore broken) torx bolts and upon disassembly, two seized bushings (yay). Everything is off now. What is the easiest way to reassemble the entire rear suspension? I am planning on replacing the long trailing arm that everything connects to and the one that holds the coil springs since it will cost the same to have a mechanic do the same work to free everything.

Currently I believe it will be to reinstall the arm that holds the springs, then the long trailing arm, then mate them together, then lift up and put in the two shorter arms (the straight vs the curved one). Then reinstall the spring itself.

Obviously whoever gets this car after me is going to have a much more anti-seized setup to remove and replace. This sorta crap only happens once in my book.

Also - does anyone know of a good bushing kit for them? I wouldn't mind powerflex, but them things are stupidly pricey...
 
#16 · (Edited)
What exactly is wrecked? I assume the lower control arm (spring cup) bolts are seized in the bushings so that will need to be replaced. Why replace the long trailing arm? Broken torx? You can cut away the bearing ears with an angle grinder & pull the torx off that way. Pics would be helpful. Reference This Thread

Actually wouldn't bother with special bushings at this point unless it allows you to salvage the lower control arm. There is a factory sport option for the large front bushing of the long trailing arm (wheel bearing holder).
 
#18 ·
So I am doing some perusing. RockAuto has some 3rd party manufacturers that list the rear lower and upper control arms as for both FWD and AWD (I am talking the short cheaper arms, not the one with the springs or the trailing arm). That being said, has anyone put FWD parts on an AWD? They both have different part numbers according to Volvo, I don't really want to order something that won't work.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Update:

So a general rule of thumb apparently for shopping at erie volvo is that you take $20-$30 off the price tag of an item, cut it in half, and that's typically the price of parts at Erie. Unfortunately I ordered a $155 and a $90 part both with LITERALLY THE SAME DESCRIPTION in the invoice. I called today and verified what I ordered. They were kind enough to confirm AND when I asked if it would come with the wheel bearing attached to the trailing arm, said they had the tools to remove it there for me. Even better.

I also called whiteline today. Their rep, upon looking at my question about their predone (the short ones) suspension arms with poly bushings - explained that because the car in their fitment category didn't mention FWD or AWD, it should be for both. I ordered two sets (one for each side) and we'll compare them when they get here. They may not be the same, but it will be worth finding out or sending them back. There is a sale on bushings for them, so it was about $180 for a set of 4 control arms for the car.

Additionally, I confirmed that W63321 are the bushings for the rear lower control arms that hold the springs - their inner bushings. I ordered a set of those too. $232 out the door for 4 of the solid LCA's and 1 pair of upgraded bushings is pretty awesome in my book. I think powerflex and PSB are the only folks that makes bushings for the Spring Arm LCA <-> trailing arm link. Powerflex requires a press, whereas PSB does not. Since I am in it this deep I am going to either replace the two-bolt trailing arm bushing with a PSB one or do a poly fill on a new OEM one.

If any one is looking for an easy upgrade route for front LCA's - Some people have made some VERY interesting poly pushings for the large front LCA bushing. Everything from press in fit like OEM design to pressing in through the more closed end of the bushing - very different stuff. I think the cheapest premade and preinserted front LCA large bushing was like $40-$50 per, which is great, they were listed under Mazda 3. I am of course talking about Poly bushings, nothing else.
 
#20 ·
Update:

Whiteline's parts got here - the short control arms are duplicates of the OEM AWD units, but with Poly bushings. a STEAL at $30 and $50 per respectively. Happy with that. I am returning my $40 set of bushings for my spring holder LCAs. I found Autozone had the same stuff (same company owns nolathane and whiteline, so same product), for a more reasonable price. So for $40 and $50 I had two sets of bushings (the trailing arm poly bushings and BOTH spring holder LCA bushings, whereas whiteline only had the inner spring holder lca bushings for the same price, hence the return).

Some good quality MoS2 grease and we are getting back in business.
 
#21 ·
I was just on the phone with the dealer near me and he said the 999479 bolts are now superceded by the 999478. He pulled up my vehicle by VIN and this was the part number displayed for my 2010 AWD m66 s40. Where did you see the 479s listed?

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#23 ·
Ok thanks. I did a part number search online and some of them showed up with 6 point hex heads which is why I was confused. Seeing how difficult the standard torx bolts are to get out, I can't imagine a hex bolt in its place. Still overnight soaking the last 3 with PB. The other 5 weren't too bad with heat/dead blows/impact in sequence. The axle bolt however crumbled just from looking at it. Bolt extractors worked for those though. Photo to show what Buffalo NY can do lol.



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