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    1. #1
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      Transmission Replacement Time

      I've been living with a high frequency vibration under load on my 07 2.5T (173k) for several months. It's been getting progressively worse. I've swapped axles a couple of times, replaced the front wheel bearings, and all the engine mounts. No luck. There's noticeable radial play in the left output shaft and high levels of aluminum, lead, copper, and tin in the transmission fluid. So, something is going inside. I suspect that a differential bearing is failing. No noise from the transmission. The transmission shifts fine. Not the typical Volvo automatic transmission problem.

      While I'd love to do a manual swap, the cost is easily 2x replacing the AW55 with a used unit.

      So, I've started searching for lower mileage 05+ AW55-51SNs. I've found a couple w/ under 50k. But, are 05s that have been sitting for 10-15 years. Not sure about that. Several in the 75k-100k range for reasonable prices. I'll be replacing seals, filter, fluid, and radiator (don't want to risk any debris from the old cooler).

      I'll either grab some low mileage Volvo axles or some new GKN axles. Toss in a Magnefine filter and a plate transmission cooler I've had sitting around forever.

      Then, hope for the best!

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    3. #2
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      Good luck!
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    4. #3
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      Quote Originally Posted by Exocet View Post
      I've swapped axles a couple of times,

      I'll either grab some low mileage Volvo axles or some new GKN axles.
      What brand of axles have you used, 99% of aftermarket axles (excluding GKN) are crap.

      And your trans is not causing the vibration -

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    6. #4
      Member Exocet's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by hoonk View Post
      What brand of axles have you used, 99% of aftermarket axles (excluding GKN) are crap.

      And your trans is not causing the vibration -
      The original Volvo axles, used Volvo axles, and cheap Chinese Trakmotive axles. Vibration is the same with all. I can swap axles in my sleep!

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    7. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by Exocet View Post
      I've been living with a high frequency vibration under load on my 07 2.5T (173k) for several months. It's been getting progressively worse. I've swapped axles a couple of times, replaced the front wheel bearings, and all the engine mounts. No luck. There's noticeable radial play in the left output shaft and high levels of aluminum, lead, copper, and tin in the transmission fluid. So, something is going inside. I suspect that a differential bearing is failing.
      Might be a bad torque converter. Not that uncommon on AW55.

      Differential bearing grinds its seat in casting, this gives aluminum in ATF. Copper and tin come from main shaft's sleeve. Lead is friction plates (I think). These are all common signs of "normal" wear in AW55.

      But I think your high-freq vibrations under load is a failing torque converter.

      You may want to drop the transmission, split it and see how the filter is doing. A good amount of dirt in the filter means TC is failing.

      I have all the same symptoms developing for several years, the transmission has 220k, and I'm still waiting it to die =)
      Last edited by vtl; 06-05-2020 at 10:16 AM.

    8. #6
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      Refurbished TCs are cheap, but you need to know the number painted on your TC.

    9. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      Might be a bad torque converter. Not that uncommon on AW55.

      Differential bearing grinds its seat in casting, this gives aluminum in ATF. Copper and tin come from main shaft's sleeve. Lead is friction plates (I think). These are all common signs of "normal" wear in AW55.

      But I think your high-freq vibrations under load is a failing torque converter.

      You may want to drop the transmission, split it and see how the filter is doing. A good amount of dirt in the filter means TC is failing.

      I have all the same symptoms developing for several years, the transmission has 220k, and I'm still waiting it to die =)
      The fluid had a 95% replacement 20k miles ago. So, 3x normal wear metals suggests more might be going on. The diff bearing should be in a race, so maybe more than just aluminum. There's also a shim in there. Not sure what it's made of.

      I tried some friction modifier in the fluid. But, nothing changed. Yes, many torque converters are pulse width modulated. That could present itself as a vibration, if the TC was failing. But, at 40 MPH uphill, the TC shouldn't even be attempting to lock up.

      At 8 hours to R&R the transmission, replacing only the TC may be a gamble (but so is a used transmission) . If you have to split the transmission to get to the filter, that's more work than I want to deal with.

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    10. #8
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      Slack in diff is that eaten casting. Shim is designed to preload the diff bearing. With time and wear, the bearing becomes not preloaded. Common failure point in AW55.

      At 40 MPH transmission is in 4th gear, TC is partially locked aka controlled slip mode (SLU current is about 450-600 mA). I have the same symptoms. Transmission mode was diagnosed with my driver's distraction display:



      I'm planning replacing the transmission when it fails or gets worse, but I'll bite a bullet with a new one (factory refurb).

    11. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      Slack in diff is that eaten casting. Shim is designed to preload the diff bearing. With time and wear, the bearing becomes not preloaded. Common failure point in AW55.

      At 40 MPH transmission is in 4th gear, TC is partially locked aka controlled slip mode (SLU current is about 450-600 mA). I have the same symptoms. Transmission mode was diagnosed with my driver's distraction display:



      I'm planning replacing the transmission when it fails or gets worse, but I'll bite a bullet with a new one (factory refurb).
      Wow, the race for the bearing is the transmission case? Must be part of the "lifetime" fluid mentality. I guess if it gets to 150k, it's good enough.

      I've checked the output shaft play of some JY cars. Most were tight. Some had just a little. Way less than mine.

      At 40 MPH up a steep hill, I'm probably in either 2nd or 3rd gear, depending on the location of my right foot! It does vibrate bad around 60-65 MPH. Enough to vibrate interior trim. It goes away above 70.

      I did come across one used AW55 with a painted case and a sticker on the pan that said "Certified Transmission". Obviously a reman. Not clear who did it, though.

      Thanks for your help!

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    12. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by Exocet View Post
      .At 40 MPH up a steep hill, I'm probably in either 2nd or 3rd gear, depending on the location of my right foot!
      I stand corrected. 40 MPH up hill is 4th gear, unless I accelerate slightly, then 3rd gear. It vibrates in both gears.


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    13. #11
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      Yep, 4th or 3d gear, TC unlocked, thud/vibrations -> dying TC.

    14. #12
      Member Exocet's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
      Yep, 4th or 3d gear, TC unlocked, thud/vibrations -> dying TC.
      It also vibrates in 5th with the TC locked.

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    15. #13
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      Time for manual swap.

    16. #14
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      Quote Originally Posted by Canadian Moose View Post
      Time for manual swap.
      In the world where the money tree is a bit more fruitful, I would do that!

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    17. #15
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      Just saw this thread and it made me cringe. I just got my 2002 back from my niece and one thing it's doing is vibrating very badly above about 40mph (any gear, TC locked or not, etc)... It's far worse when accelerating or engine braking but not so bad if I have everything sort of freewheeling.

      Does that sound like TC?

      It also take a long time to engage in D but not in R, and once rolling it shifts flawlessly, but I am thinking it might just be low on ATF? She did literally zero maintenance on this car in the 5 years and 50k she put on it. *cringe*
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    18. #16
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      Quote Originally Posted by ehidle View Post
      Just saw this thread and it made me cringe. I just got my 2002 back from my niece and one thing it's doing is vibrating very badly above about 40mph (any gear, TC locked or not, etc)... It's far worse when accelerating or engine braking but not so bad if I have everything sort of freewheeling.

      Does that sound like TC?
      Sounds more like a bad CV or out-of-balance wheel. Check those first, Exocet's been chasing his issue for a while now but started there as those are the more likely issues.
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    19. #17
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      Quote Originally Posted by madmattd View Post
      Sounds more like a bad CV or out-of-balance wheel. Check those first, Exocet's been chasing his issue for a while now but started there as those are the more likely issues.
      I've had so many combinations of OEM and aftermarket axles in and out that I've lost count. None changed the vibration to any significant extent. Extremely high levels of metal in the transmission fluid suggest transmission issues, not axles or wheels.

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    20. #18
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      Quote Originally Posted by Exocet View Post
      I've had so many combinations of OEM and aftermarket axles in and out that I've lost count. None changed the vibration to any significant extent. Extremely high levels of metal in the transmission fluid suggest transmission issues, not axles or wheels.

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      Yea, you definitely seem to have something else going on.
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    21. #19
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      Quote Originally Posted by Exocet View Post
      In the world where the money tree is a bit more fruitful, I would do that!

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      But putting in another auto will cost just as much.

    22. #20
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      Quote Originally Posted by Canadian Moose View Post
      But putting in another auto will cost just as much.
      A used auto, installed with new seals, fluid, inline filter, and new GKN axles is about $1500. An M56 swap is about $3500.

      Now, if I was looking at a rebuilt automatic, then they would be much closer in price.

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    23. #21
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      Quote Originally Posted by madmattd View Post
      Sounds more like a bad CV or out-of-balance wheel. Check those first, Exocet's been chasing his issue for a while now but started there as those are the more likely issues.
      Yeah I have suspected the CV joints. I had new tires put on and that didn't solve it, but I also discovered that both strut mounts were seized, so I am putting new ones in this evening once it cools down a bit. I don't get any noise from the axles on tight turns but that doesn't mean they're not the cause I guess.

      The shaking isn't really coupled to the steering wheel either which leads me to believe it's in something not connected to the wheels/steering.
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      Quote Originally Posted by Exocet View Post
      A used auto, installed with new seals, fluid, inline filter, and new GKN axles is about $1500. An M56 swap is about $3500.

      Now, if I was looking at a rebuilt automatic, then they would be much closer in price.

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      I got a complete donor car for $800 when I did mine.

    25. #23
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      Quote Originally Posted by Canadian Moose View Post
      I got a complete donor car for $800 when I did mine.
      It's about $1-1.5k for all of the manual parts, depending on the clutch/flywheel combo you want. Another $1k to R&R the transmission. The rest is all the little things and dealing with the electronics. With some judicious shopping, I could probably get the major parts for under $1k. But, it takes time, and that's getting short.

      I did find a possible donor nearby. But, the guy had lost the keys. No way to drive it up on a trailer. I don't have a suitable winch.

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    26. #24
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      Down to 2 AW55 candidates. One is a 2005 with 40k miles on it, but has been sitting for 10 years. The other is a 2008 with 80k miles on it and has been sitting for two years. The 2005 is about 10% more. Generally, I'd gravitate towards the one with fewer miles. But, sitting for 10 years is a concern. Yes, I'd replace all the external seals and fluid in either one.

      Any thoughts?

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    27. #25
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      Quote Originally Posted by Exocet View Post
      A used auto, installed with new seals, fluid, inline filter, and new GKN axles is about $1500. An M56 swap is about $3500.

      Now, if I was looking at a rebuilt automatic, then they would be much closer in price.

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      zmarsh bought my M56 swap kit mabe he would part with it, about 7x less than above. Think you are thinking of M66 swap. Tuning cant be that much . . .

    28. #26
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      Quote Originally Posted by zak View Post
      zmarsh bought my M56 swap kit mabe he would part with it, about 7x less than above. Think you are thinking of M66 swap. Tuning cant be that much . . .
      I can get all the parts for an M56 manual swap for $500-1000, depending on the vintage and what type of clutch/flywheel I wanted. Labor to R&R the transmission is a solid $1k. Add in a bit to swap pedals and shifter. After that, it's dealing with the electronics - ECM, TCM, and CEM. That's where it gets expensive. I want this thing to be turn-key. So, not piecemealing it.

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    29. #27
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      I think it all depends on how the old one was stored. 40k miles is average 3 years driving. If all the details are right I’d go for an 05. I’d do all the maintenance and update the valve body as well. If you can, throw in aux trans cooler from a 2.5 XC90 with corresponding lines.


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    30. #28
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      Quote Originally Posted by Oliovlov View Post
      I think it all depends on how the old one was stored. 40k miles is average 3 years driving. If all the details are right I’d go for an 05. I’d do all the maintenance and update the valve body as well. If you can, throw in aux trans cooler from a 2.5 XC90 with corresponding lines.


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      That's what I was thinking. Sitting in a warehouse for 10 years is a lot better than sitting in the car out in a yard for 10 years. I was planning on adding a external cooler.

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    31. #29
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      Here's the donor transmission along with a cooler from a Dodge Dart, of all things.

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    32. #30
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      I've seen guys use the XC90 cooler, I think it might have hoses that match the transmission if you get it from a 5 cylinder.
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    33. #31
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      Quote Originally Posted by LloydDobler View Post
      I've seen guys use the XC90 cooler, I think it might have hoses that match the transmission if you get it from a 5 cylinder.
      That's what I wanted. But, need to find an XC90 with a factory tow package. They are in short supply around me right now. Used ones online are $100, w/o the hoses.

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    34. #32
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      Spin on transmission filter set up.

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