Is this an original timing belt or new Volvo one?
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    1. #1
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      Is this an original timing belt or new Volvo one?

      https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xtP...ew?usp=sharing
      The car is a 2006 S40 T5 Auto 2.5T AWD. Has around 113k miles on it. She's in great shape and I'm pretty pumped I got it for $2500 last sunday.
      I looked up the vehicle history on Carfax but the last dealer entry was at around 98k and since then just one oil change record. I've don't really own timing belt cars(till recently) so I don't know if the lettering would look so good, this seems like a relatively new belt to me. It's in great shape. But if that's how they look at 113k then I'll have to grab a kit and change it.

      Thank you!
      Joshua

      P.S. How do you upload pictures on this forum? Other forums let you upload directly and none of this linky stuff.

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    3. #2
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      If there is no record of it being replaced and no indication under the hood that it has been replaced, assume it hasn't.

    4. #3
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      When in doubt, change it out.

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    6. #4
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      The "16211" looks like a Julian date code - July 29 2016. And it certainly doesn't look like an original belt from a wear/weathering perspective.

      A Volvo part like that usually means a Volvo dealer did the work, but I assume you didn't find a sticker on the front engine cover which they'll always do. A dealer can look up more than Carfax, you might get a second opinion from one. Personally, I would lean toward leaving it alone, unless you spot other clues.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD 6MT w/Heico tune, Heico exhaust, Bell intercooler, IPD TCV, Viva Forge CBV, Elevate rear swaybar and torque mount, Snabb shift kit, etc.
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    7. #5
      Junior Member LukeFlynn's Avatar
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      Some dealers don't use the sticker, I don't put them on personally. Most of our customers see stuff like that in the engine bay and get annoyed, so we just stopped all together. Now they just get their receipt as proof. Without a receipt you really can't tell, the fact that it's got that many miles certainly suggests it's been done at some point... but if you have no proof just spend the money instead of putting an engine it it
      '04 XC70 | Silver Metallic/Nordkap 220K | Shimmed B5254T2 | K24 | M66 w/ SPEC single mass | EST Sport catback | Elevate sways | BC Coilovers | Hilton Stage 3 Tune
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    8. #6
      Senior Member ScottishBrick's Avatar
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      Oh no. Must not show indications of maintenance!

      The opposite though is worse. I’ve looked at cars and seen new t belt stickers and then checked the belt and it was original date code and cracked to hell. Walked on that one real quick...
      2003 V70 T5 - Mystic/Graphite - M56LK - 211k - K24/Greens/Do88/Quaife/SMF/P2R Clutch/DW300C/H&R/Bilstein TC/316mm & 308mm Brakes - SteveO Tuned
      1999 V70 T5 - Pewter/R Graphite & Alcantara - AW42 - 305k - Daily/Work Wagon
      1999 V70 T5 - Nautic/R Graphite & Alcantara - M56H - 177k - Rescued
      1999 V70 T5 - Emerald/Graphite - M56H - 119k - Garage Queen
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    9. #7
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      Unfortunately not everyone uses the stickers. It would be nice if they did. I have a co-worker who is apparently too lazy to put them on. Drives me nuts when I get a car I think needs a belt only to spend my time digging through the service history to see he replaced it. Just put the damn sticker on.

    10. #8
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      Thank you for all the replies guys, sorry I didn't write back. Tricky time in life right now(3 young kiddos, and too much vehicle/house maintenance!), and I honestly didn't want to hear "change it out to be safe." I was SO hoping for "here's the date code, you're good to go". But it sounds like there isn't a positive on that one. Looks very clean though and certainly no cracks on either side. I did buy the kit with water pump and will change it out at some point soon. I get to practice on my brother's first, which is out of the car.

    11. #9
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      Oh and yes, for all that is good and pure-- add the sticker or use white pen or something to tell the owner and future buyers when the timing belt was changed! Couldn't agree more.

    12. #10
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      Just remember, if the belt snaps, the car is basically totaled unless you want to buy a new engine


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    13. #11
      Quote Originally Posted by Tarsas View Post
      Just remember, if the belt snaps, the car is basically totaled unless you want to buy a new engine


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      the "head" is totaled, not the engine. Specifically the valves.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
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    14. #12
      Junior Member LukeFlynn's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      the "head" is totaled, not the engine. Specifically the valves.
      This is true, but most shops will just try to sell you an engine because usually the labor works out a little less believe it or not if you go book time, also volvo valves are stupid expensive as are a lot of machine shops affiliated with repair shops.

      If you're doing it yourself that's a different story, I'd rather do a head than a motor most of the time
      '04 XC70 | Silver Metallic/Nordkap 220K | Shimmed B5254T2 | K24 | M66 w/ SPEC single mass | EST Sport catback | Elevate sways | BC Coilovers | Hilton Stage 3 Tune
      '13 C30 T5M | Black Stone/Black | 135K | Stock

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    15. #13
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by LukeFlynn View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      the "head" is totaled, not the engine. Specifically the valves.
      This is true, but most shops will just try to sell you an engine because usually the labor works out a little less believe it or not if you go book time, also volvo valves are stupid expensive as are a lot of machine shops affiliated with repair shops.

      If you're doing it yourself that's a different story, I'd rather do a head than a motor most of the time

      This is the exact situation I've been through when I fixed my C70 I bought with a broken timing belt. The head and the valve guides were fine, it just needed new valves and tappets.
      But when I saw this prices:

      Prices of FCP Euro:


      Genuine Volvo valves
      Intake $50.22 ea. x 10 valves = $502.20
      Exhaust $95.88 ea. x 10 valves = $958.80

      Total genuine valves: $1461 + tax


      Aftermarket: CRP valves
      Intake $17.62 ea. x 10 valves = $176.20
      Exhaust $21.42 ea. x 10 valves= $214.20

      Total aftermarket valves: $390.40 + tax

      AND THAT'S JUST THE VALVES! on top of that add tappets, head gasket set, head bolts and everything necessary to put the engine back together.


      Just the cost of the genuine valves are way more than I paid for the car. And I don't know if the aftermarket ones worth that. So I decided to buy a used T5 Cylinder head with good valves off facebook marketplace for $300 (and it came with both intake manifolds and a complete injector rail) took the valves out, Bought a bunch of tappets off the junkyard and rebuilt my original cylinder head.

      I didn't even considered asking a shop to do this because I knew it would cost a fortune.
      Last edited by Facusan; 09-07-2020 at 12:00 AM.

    16. #14
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      Yeah for sure, darn interference engines. Just one more thing the dealers can charge an arm and a leg for, timing belt stuff.
      I'm kind of surprised these are interference actually, given how deep the spark plug is and how much room there is in the cylinder at TDC. We were just doing compression tests on my brother's donor engine and it seems like a large chamber left at TDC. Oh well. Guess I'm used to my 7.3 mechanical diesel that would hydro-lock on about 2 tablespoons of liquid.

      That's crazy about the valves...wow. Nice workaround, good info.

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