Window won't go down with car running?!
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    1. #1
      Junior Member ExpoLiquid's Avatar
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      Window won't go down with car running?!

      Hey guys, I'm new here and looking for some help.

      I have a 01 S60 T5 and am having an issue with my driver's door window. The window will go up and down perfectly fine when the key is in an aux position HOWEVER will not move at all once the car is running.

      All other windows and buttons are working perfectly no matter if the car is running or not so I'm quite confused as to what might be my issue.

      Do you guys have any suggestions? Any help is appreciated!!

      - Jon

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    3. #2
      Member Oceans60R's Avatar
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      Sounds like a bad ignition switch
      2011 S60 T6 Ember Black/Off Black, P* Tune, TDI-Tuning Box, DO88 Intercooler, IPD DP, Simons Sport Exhaust, IPD rear sway bar, H&R Springs, Bilstein B8's, 19" Polestar Wheels, 90mm Wheel Studs

    4. #3
      Junior Member ExpoLiquid's Avatar
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      How would that make any sense?

      (Excuse my potential stupidity)

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    6. #4
      Member T501's Avatar
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      I had that happen on my car. Sometimes if I kept pressing the window switch it would eventually go down. It got worse over time. I took the switch apart and cleaned but that didn't help at all. I replaced the window regulator and it works much better. Still gives me trouble once in a while where I'll have to hit the switch two or three times but it works normally 90 percent of he time or better. Before it almost never worked.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 207K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 78k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design 73k+ miles Dad - '98 S70 T5 210k + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5 (Not as fun as my '01)
      Past
      '95 850 '92 960

    7. #5
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      When was the last time you checked your battery and/or alternator output voltage? These cars do screwy things when the operating voltage drops too low.

      For example, your battery when in position 2 may be running at 12.2V and everything is fine, but when you start the car, the battery voltage drops to something like 11V due to increased load and your alternator isn't keeping the voltage up high enough. Just a guess.
      2005 S60 T5 M66 (1 of 72). 4C (for now), Sport Kit, Snabb Short Shifter+Bushings, IPD Track Sways F+R, Bi-Xenon Retrofitted R Headlights - custom fuse box/wiring harness, IPD DP + Oval Tube Exhaust, Forge CBV, Snabb intake pipe, R Brembos F+R, FC04A 17x8+35. coming soon: KW V2, Delrin Subframe Bushings, Do88 Intercooler, Stage 2 Tune. HU-650+Bluetooth Grom+PA300+2xFocal ISS165+ACM-1.300+2x6.5" Dayton Rear Door Subwoofers.
      2005 G55k Family hauler
      2007 Formula SAE Racecar - Custom Tube Frame Chassis, Fox Shocks, Pullrod Suspension, , Wilwood Calipers, Hoosier Slicks, Magnesium 2pc wheels... (full auto-x resto)
      NA1 Supercharged NSX someday.

    8. #6
      Junior Member ExpoLiquid's Avatar
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      Well I'm betting I can rule this option out. I'm averaging 12.3v with car off and roughly 14v with it on and running.



      Quote Originally Posted by broinkrist View Post
      When was the last time you checked your battery and/or alternator output voltage? These cars do screwy things when the operating voltage drops too low.

      For example, your battery when in position 2 may be running at 12.2V and everything is fine, but when you start the car, the battery voltage drops to something like 11V due to increased load and your alternator isn't keeping the voltage up high enough. Just a guess.

    9. #7
      Junior Member ExpoLiquid's Avatar
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      Hmm, alright I'll have to look into this. I'd obviously rather it to work most of the time over none at all like I have now. Becomes quite the pain pulling over and turning the car off everytime I want the window open or closed more haha

      Quote Originally Posted by T501 View Post
      I had that happen on my car. Sometimes if I kept pressing the window switch it would eventually go down. It got worse over time. I took the switch apart and cleaned but that didn't help at all. I replaced the window regulator and it works much better. Still gives me trouble once in a while where I'll have to hit the switch two or three times but it works normally 90 percent of he time or better. Before it almost never worked.

    10. #8
      Member T501's Avatar
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      Believe me I know how you feel. It's a PITA.
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 207K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 78k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design 73k+ miles Dad - '98 S70 T5 210k + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5 (Not as fun as my '01)
      Past
      '95 850 '92 960

    11. #9
      Member T501's Avatar
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      Just wanted to share a recent discovery with this window problem. As I stated above a few years ago I replaced the window regulator as cleaning the switch didn't help much if at all. Lately I'm having the same issues again. I hit the button a bunch of times and you hear the window want to work for a split second but nothing happens. Now that I know my window regulator and motor are good I took the switch apart again. I cleaned it again although it seemed to be very clean already. Upon putting it back together I noticed that the three screws that hold the PCB board in place seemed to be tight at a certain point but aren't actually tight enough to push the board close to the switch.

      If you press on the back of the board you will see it move about 2 or 3 1/16ths of an inch even after the screws feel tight. So you need to hold the board firmly toward the switches, then tighten the three screws until they hold the board in place. I never noticed this the first time and of course you're thinking not to over tighten the screws so that you don't crack the board. But since the screws are self tapping, coarse thread, they feel tight even when they are far from holding the PCB board against the back of the switch.

      The real issue I believe is that the contacts on the rubber pad part are worn out and lost some material due to use. This is why after cleaning, getting the board back in place and pushing it in as far back in as it will go into the back of the switch is so important. You need to try and make up for the space between the contacts on the pad and the contacts on the PCB board.

      Now my window works much better. It's not 100% percent fixed because those contacts are still worn but the most I ever have to depress the switch is twice in order to get the window to go down. I hope this helps!
      David - '01 S60 T5 GT 207K+ miles OWNED SINCE DAY ONE - Bilstein Sport + TME, ipd sway bar + endlinks, UR chassis braces (upper F+R), Powerslot /Akebono pads, Snabb Intake, iMIV Original engine, transmission replaced at 78k miles
      Wife -'13 C30 T5 R-Design 73k+ miles Dad - '98 S70 T5 210k + miles, Bilstein TCs, IPD HD rear springs, SAS delete Mom -'10 S80 V8 Executive Sis - '02 S80 T6 Backup car -'13 S60 T5 (Not as fun as my '01)
      Past
      '95 850 '92 960

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