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    1. #1
      Member CYB3RBYTE's Avatar
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      Quicksilver Saga, 2011 C30 M66 Revival

      Hey everyone. Iíve been on Swedespeed for a while, but normally in the P80 forums. After getting interest in selling my 850 R, I figured it was time to move to a newer, smaller Volvo. I had been looking for manual cars FOREVER, and there were very few in my area, if any. Finally I happened upon a M66 2011 C70 with only 91,000 miles, in my area, with a book of records. I went to look at the car on a Thursday, and bought it the next day. Big thanks to C30 in WI, the previous owner, he took excellent care of this vehicle and I plan to do the same.

      Here is a quick hatch photo I took after getting back with the car:



      This is my first manual car (although Iíve driven friendís cars before) so any tips on how to drive these cars to avoid clutch wear would be appreciated. I donít want to do a clutch anytime soon lol.

      Immediately I noticed the cabin air temp sensor was super loud, so I took it apart and blew it out, and after reinstalling it, itís pretty quiet. After that, I went to work on removing the piece of paper that was stuck in the CD drive. After getting it out, reassembling the console, and testing it, Iím happy to report it works perfectly.







      Is there anything I can do to remove the green color from the CD slot?

      Things to do on the car: I feel as though this car needs motor mounts, the shifts are a little clunky unless you completely baby the clutch. It also makes some good clunks over bumps, donít know if these are related or they are suspension based. Also would like to figure out how to get these spots off of the trim plastic. Any thoughts are appreciated!

      Last edited by CYB3RBYTE; 06-21-2020 at 01:12 PM.
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 92,6xx

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    3. #2
      Member CYB3RBYTE's Avatar
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      Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove the wax spots from the black trim on this car? Also looking for suggestions on how to prolong the life of a clutch!
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 92,6xx

    4. #3
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Did you try mineral spirits?

      Clutch, Are you new to a clutch? As long as you are not abusing it by burn-outs, toe-heeling it at lights or on hill starts, it should last well over 100k miles.

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    6. #4
      Senior Member ZZZZZZZ's Avatar
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      That car actually looks pretty sharp on Thors. Nice purchase and good price!
      What was the paper in the CD??
      "The Real IPD" - ZZZZZZZ's thread
      2007 Passion Red/Gobi VRgt; 2005 Silver/Beige Leather S60 2.5T AWD; 2002 Silver/Off black leather V70XC
      Past: 1999 Tropic Blue/Green/Oak leather V70 (NAa); Mom traded 1975 Maroon/Maroon leather 164E

    7. #5
      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove the wax spots from the black trim on this car? Also looking for suggestions on how to prolong the life of a clutch!




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    8. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
      Did you try mineral spirits?

      Clutch, Are you new to a clutch? As long as you are not abusing it by burn-outs, toe-heeling it at lights or on hill starts, it should last well over 100k miles.
      I have driven manual cars before. On this one, the clutch ďbite pointĒ is near the middle top of the pedal. Is that normal? Also there is a small clunk going into first or second. Maybe that is engine mount related.

      The car is currently at 92k, but was ďadult-drivenĒ according to the seller. Should I prepare to replace it anyways?

      Iíve never used mineral spirits on black trim, is it alright for it? (sorry for all the questions!)
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 92,6xx

    9. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by ZZZZZZZ View Post
      That car actually looks pretty sharp on Thors. Nice purchase and good price!
      What was the paper in the CD??
      Of all things, a dry cleaning receipt from the guyís wife, lol. And then there were more stuffed down near the VIN cutout in the windshield! I still havenít gotten one cause itís so far down there.
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 92,6xx

    10. #8
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      I have driven manual cars before. On this one, the clutch ďbite pointĒ is near the middle top of the pedal. Is that normal? Also there is a small clunk going into first or second. Maybe that is engine mount related.

      The car is currently at 92k, but was ďadult-drivenĒ according to the seller. Should I prepare to replace it anyways?

      Iíve never used mineral spirits on black trim, is it alright for it? (sorry for all the questions!)
      I wouldn't do the clutch until you need it. Midway grab is OK. You will need to do the flywheel at the same time, so my recommendation is to get one of the LUK kits from England - they sell one for the Focus RS - flywheel, disc, PP & flywheel bolts (need to be changed). You can get the whole shebang for less than any US vendor, even with the shipping. You also need a special socket for the flywheel bolts.

      EDIT : Price is REALLY good on this now - maybe it's worth getting it so you have it on hand.

      The trim is not coated, so mineral spirits or turpentine is fine for grease removal. I'm assuming you've already tried mild household products? I wouldn't use any colorant/dye type product, but that's just me. Once you start, you have to keep it up.

      With that mileage, you likely need the torque mount & both engine & trans mounts. Those I would do now, then see how the clutch goes.
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-23-2020 at 07:07 PM.

    11. #9
      Quote Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
      I wouldn't do the clutch until you need it. Midway grab is OK. You will need to do the flywheel at the same time, so my recommendation is to get one of the LUK kits from England - they sell one for the Focus RS - flywheel, disc, PP & flywheel bolts (need to be changed). You can get the whole shebang for less than any US vendor, even with the shipping. You also need a special socket for the flywheel bolts.

      EDIT : Price is REALLY good on this now - maybe it's worth getting it so you have it on hand.

      The trim is not coated, so mineral spirits or turpentine is fine for grease removal. I'm assuming you've already tried mild household products? I wouldn't use any colorant/dye type product, but that's just me. Once you start, you have to keep it up.

      With that mileage, you likely need the torque mount & both engine & trans mounts. Those I would do now, then see how the clutch goes.
      I agree. Definitely mounts. This was mine.nearly torn through.


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    12. #10
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      Okay, passenger side mount (which I know is blown for sure) and new OEM coolant bottle is coming. I heard a popular upgrade is to use a ford torque arm instead of the Volvo one since itís tighter?

      I also get a slight whiff of exhaust when I start the car, it comes through the vents. Any clues?
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 92,6xx

    13. #11
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      Okay, passenger side mount (which I know is blown for sure) and new OEM coolant bottle is coming. I heard a popular upgrade is to use a ford torque arm instead of the Volvo one since itís tighter?

      I also get a slight whiff of exhaust when I start the car, it comes through the vents. Any clues?
      The torque mount you want is Focus eDrive. Can't find my post where I installed it for the PN. EDIT: CM5Z-6068A is the Ford PN

      http://www.c30crew.com/forum/showthr...ght=CM5Z-6068A

      No clue on the exhaust smell, sorry.
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-23-2020 at 08:22 PM.

    14. #12
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      Alright, Iíll grab that mount. Whatís weird about the smell is it only happens at startup, when the A/C kicks on for a second to test itself, then stops as soon as the A/C turns off. If I turn on the A/C manually afterwards, it doesnít happen...

      What do you guys use to clean up headlights? I tried the 3M kit and it removed a lot of the oxidation but it still looks slightly hazy overall.
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 92,6xx

    15. #13
      Senior Member ZZZZZZZ's Avatar
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      When I have a little extra money Iím going to get some stuff and do this guyís method on the s60.

      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      Alright, Iíll grab that mount. Whatís weird about the smell is it only happens at startup, when the A/C kicks on for a second to test itself, then stops as soon as the A/C turns off. If I turn on the A/C manually afterwards, it doesnít happen...

      What do you guys use to clean up headlights? I tried the 3M kit and it removed a lot of the oxidation but it still looks slightly hazy overall.
      Last edited by ZZZZZZZ; 06-24-2020 at 07:01 AM.
      "The Real IPD" - ZZZZZZZ's thread
      2007 Passion Red/Gobi VRgt; 2005 Silver/Beige Leather S60 2.5T AWD; 2002 Silver/Off black leather V70XC
      Past: 1999 Tropic Blue/Green/Oak leather V70 (NAa); Mom traded 1975 Maroon/Maroon leather 164E

    16. #14
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      Alright, Iíll grab that mount. Whatís weird about the smell is it only happens at startup, when the A/C kicks on for a second to test itself, then stops as soon as the A/C turns off. If I turn on the A/C manually afterwards, it doesnít happen...

      What do you guys use to clean up headlights? I tried the 3M kit and it removed a lot of the oxidation but it still looks slightly hazy overall.
      I used Chemical Guys 4 stage compound/polish - with a wheel & their buffing pads. I had the lenses out for projector install - you can polish them just remove the HL assy







      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-24-2020 at 06:35 AM.

    17. #15
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      Quote Originally Posted by ZZZZZZZ View Post
      When I have a little extra money Iím going to get some stuff and do this guyís method on the s60.
      A couple notes about the video:
      - if you start with the 1500, dry and inspect the lens very carefully. It may have small nicks or deeper scratches which will require a much coarser grit to remove. I started with 400 and worked my way back up
      - be patient with each stage. When you think you are done, clean and dry the surface and inspect it to see if it is uniform. You may have to go back over it to get spots you missed

      I also used the 3M paint protection film on my lights (2008). A year later and the lights still look brand new!


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    18. #16
      Senior Member ZZZZZZZ's Avatar
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      Many thanks. 3M film in the amazon cart for later (been there for months now).
      Quote Originally Posted by tapatalk587 View Post
      A couple notes about the video:
      - if you start with the 1500, dry and inspect the lens very carefully. It may have small nicks or deeper scratches which will require a much coarser grit to remove. I started with 400 and worked my way back up
      - be patient with each stage. When you think you are done, clean and dry the surface and inspect it to see if it is uniform. You may have to go back over it to get spots you missed

      I also used the 3M paint protection film on my lights (2008). A year later and the lights still look brand new!


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      "The Real IPD" - ZZZZZZZ's thread
      2007 Passion Red/Gobi VRgt; 2005 Silver/Beige Leather S60 2.5T AWD; 2002 Silver/Off black leather V70XC
      Past: 1999 Tropic Blue/Green/Oak leather V70 (NAa); Mom traded 1975 Maroon/Maroon leather 164E

    19. #17
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      Okay, so the headlights turned out a 7/10, up from a 5/10 in my book. I plan to go over both again today and possibly the taillights as well to make them nice and shiny like new.



      Also looking for ideas on how to repair these rips, or where to get new seat covers. They are the vinyl seats with cloth.



      Really need to find a set of weather tech or stock all weather floor mats for this thing.

      Last edited by CYB3RBYTE; 06-25-2020 at 10:52 AM.
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 92,6xx

    20. #18
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      Got around to replacing that passenger side mount. Shifts are a bit easier, less clunky, but still not as perfect. Engine idle vibration is greatly reduced. As you can see, the old mount just about had it.



      I noticed something covering the VIN plate, so I got out my aquarium tweezers and pulled this out... Milwaukee strikes yet again, lol.



      This was sort of alarming, the passenger side window trim is peeling off and leaving all this shrapnel on the side of the car! Can I replace this or do I have to replace the window? Or can I just use a rubber reconditioner to redo it?

      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 92,6xx

    21. #19
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      Okay, so the headlights turned out a 7/10, up from a 5/10 in my book. I plan to go over both again today and possibly the taillights as well to make them nice and shiny like new.



      Also looking for ideas on how to repair these rips, or where to get new seat covers. They are the vinyl seats with cloth.


      Really need to find a set of weather tech or stock all weather floor mats for this thing.

      You can get a full leather replacement upholstery for around 800 from CanadaSeatSkins. Way nicer than the "cloth" ****e - mine had that also, but no tears. I gave them to another forum member. Maybe his old ones are btter than yours? I'd just get the leatehr & be done with it. No way you can beat the price for a full interior. You choose the stitching color, etc. I kept it basic.

      https://www.canadaseatskins.us/volvo...her-seats.html

      I put them in my C30. Does take some effort, it's not bolt in - the front seats are not pre-cut for the switches/pull levers, so great care is required when test fitting & slotting.





      Mats for can still get from Volvo, look way better than that generic nonsense
      Last edited by lookforjoe; 06-28-2020 at 04:08 PM.

    22. #20
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      Thanks! Any idea what I can do about the window trim? Is it a replaceable part or is it part of the window?

      Do these cars need the adjustable camber plates as well?
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 92,6xx

    23. #21
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      Thanks! Any idea what I can do about the window trim? Is it a replaceable part or is it part of the window?

      Do these cars need the adjustable camber plates as well?
      Don't know about the trim. Glass is all bonded, so the trim is just trim as far as I know. You can look up the parts here (Volvo US website) , that will give you a sense of how it is attached.

      I haven't found the need for camber plates, however I don't like slammed rides, and with just the eibach springs, the ride height drop is still within adjustable alignment specs.

    24. #22
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      I plan on keeping the suspension stock as the roads around me suck at the moment. Only thing is a get a slight clunk over bumps, my thoughts are control arms or the sway bar end links?

      So the C30 doesn't have the same camber issues as the C70? I remember my dad's C70 had really bad camber, where it would begin to cup the tires on the inside if we didn't align it every so often.
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 92,6xx

    25. #23
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      I plan on keeping the suspension stock as the roads around me suck at the moment. Only thing is a get a slight clunk over bumps, my thoughts are control arms or the sway bar end links?

      So the C30 doesn't have the same camber issues as the C70? I remember my dad's C70 had really bad camber, where it would begin to cup the tires on the inside if we didn't align it every so often.
      What year C70? If it's the early one, the entire platform is different. In any event, there are no inherent camber issues.

      First thing to look at would be end links. Then possibly struts/shocks, top mounts and then control arms, depending on your mileage & how the car was used.

    26. #24
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      Quote Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
      What year C70? If it's the early one, the entire platform is different. In any event, there are no inherent camber issues.

      First thing to look at would be end links. Then possibly struts/shocks, top mounts and then control arms, depending on your mileage & how the car was used.
      91k, the car was used mainly as a highway commute vehicle. The C70 was a P1, 2011.
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 92,6xx

    27. #25
      Junior Member rocketscience55's Avatar
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      I'd check your sway bar end links. They tend to clunk over bumps. You can check the fronts by reaching in with a pry bar or something like it and push up on the lower end link ball joint to check for play.

      Also I'd go for the stock all weather floor mats because I think they might be cheaper than WeatherTech, I liked the stock ones I had in my C30 a lot.
      2005 S40 M66, stock
      2019 XC40 T4 FWD, Momentum with Premium and Vision Package - Hers
      2013 C30 Polestar #141/250, Mototech exhaust, Volvo Skid Plate, RacingBeat RSB, - Sold
      1997 Volvo 850 N/A with 240k, 1 owner, SOLD 2017
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    28. #26
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      Okay, got the coolant expansion tank in today after fiddling with the connections from the previous Mazda tank of unknown model origin. Itís a temporary setup but it will hold for now, the new OEM hoses are coming tomorrow night.



      Also found some solid lug nuts that my dad bought for the C70. Are these a good thing to put on? I have yet to take a wheel off the car, probably will change once I tackle the AC clutch shim.

      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 92,6xx

    29. #27
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      There is another engine mount on the drivers side if you haven't changed that one yet it might clear up the rest of your issues with how the car feels in addition to the torque mount.

    30. #28
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      Quicksilver Saga, 2011 C30 M66 Revival

      Quote Originally Posted by psy View Post
      There is another engine mount on the drivers side if you haven't changed that one yet it might clear up the rest of your issues with how the car feels in addition to the torque mount.
      I will have to get a mount, I hear the electric Ford Focus mount is the one to use. Youíre speaking of the torque mount right?

      Got the correct coolant expansion tank hoses in today, I replaced the old ones, with not too much mess. These cars are significantly easier to work in or around the engine bay than P80 Volvoís, but I havenít done a timing belt yet so weíll see how I feel after that haha.





      I donít know if Iím stupid, or if this connector is terrible, but it was not easy to get off!

      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 92,6xx

    31. #29
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      No your referring to the Torque mount for the transmission, I'm referring to the left side (driver side) engine mount its located under the battery box. Also yes those connectors can be a pain when they don't want to corporate.

      https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...mount-31316498

      https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm

      pic04.jpg
      Last edited by psy; 07-02-2020 at 09:42 PM.

    32. #30
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      Quote Originally Posted by psy View Post
      No your referring to the Torque mount for the transmission, I'm referring to the left side (driver side) engine mount. Also yes those connectors can be a pain when they don't want to corporate.

      https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...mount-31316498
      How difficult is it to replace that mount?
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 92,6xx

    33. #31
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      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      How difficult is it to replace that mount?
      I updated my post with a picture for you but its easy just make sure you have a jack with a block of wood under the engine. Also the timing belt is easy here follow this guide it will help you a lot, you don't need the special locking toll to do the job either just mark everything with a sharpie so you timing marks line up. The biggest pita I ran into was getting the damn water pump out, also might be a good time to just changing your belts and tensioner on the A/C and Alternator if since your already there.

      https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm

    34. #32
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      How difficult is it to replace that mount?
      Just remove the battery & battery tray. That part takes longer than it does to undo the trans mount.

      The T/belt is a PITA compared to the P80. Requires raising & lowering the motor a couple/few times to access everything. Still, just another white block besides that, and easier to setup than the t/belt with 99-00 Cam gears..

    35. #33
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      Iíve heard from many people that you donít have to lock the cams, but that seems kind of dangerous on these cars...
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 92,6xx

    36. #34
      Member lookforjoe's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      Iíve heard from many people that you donít have to lock the cams, but that seems kind of dangerous on these cars...
      Oh, I lock the cams. The old IPD whiteblock 4- pin tool works just fine

    37. #35
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      I didn't lock the cam's, I mean if you have the toll just makes easier.
      Last edited by psy; 07-05-2020 at 04:00 PM.

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