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    1. #1
      Member khalil_y's Avatar
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      Brakes (Rotors & Pads)

      Sup yall,

      Been shopping for a new set of rotors and pads. I havent had good luck with OE Brembo, StopTech, and EBC rotors, I've been using StopTech Street pads that have been pretty good dust wise but im sure theres something better out there.

      And now that my car is around 440bhp, im eating through rotors faster than you can read this whole post :P

      Im looking for a set of rotors and pads that can take serious punishment from roll racing to road track days without making me bankrupt.

      Any suggestions are welcome. What are you guys with over 400hp running?
      Stage 3 Electric Silver 06 S60R 6SPD #TeamTF80, 12.6 1/4 @114mph. Build thread here
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    3. #2
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
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      Girodisc with Hawk pads and fresh DOT4 before every track day.



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      06 VR GT - daily driver ~18" TSW Nurburgring wheels ~Contrast Stage 4 ~Shimmed block ~EFR7163 turbo ~1050cc Injectors ~TorqByte PM3 fuel pump and CM5-LT W/M controllers ~track spec IPD Bars ~Ultra Racing front strut bar & VST rear strut bar ~SS brake lines~Innovate Boost & AFR fail safe

    4. #3
      Moderator The Driver's Avatar
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      Brembo's from FCP euro, wear em out send em back.
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    6. #4
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      Quote Originally Posted by khalil_y View Post
      Sup yall,

      Been shopping for a new set of rotors and pads. I havent had good luck with OE Brembo, StopTech, and EBC rotors, I've been using StopTech Street pads that have been pretty good dust wise but im sure theres something better out there.

      And now that my car is around 440bhp, im eating through rotors faster than you can read this whole post :P

      Im looking for a set of rotors and pads that can take serious punishment from roll racing to road track days without making me bankrupt.

      Any suggestions are welcome. What are you guys with over 400hp running?
      Street pads don't work at the track on a heavy pig like these Volvos. Run separate street pads & rotors, have dedicated track pads & rotors, saves you from having to re-bed the rotors when you swap pads. How tight of a track and are you running with DSTC off?

      My street setup is Volvo rotors with Hawk HPS pads. Got both at a great discount from FCP, can now replace them for free every time!

      I've never run the track in my Volvo, but cooling is going to be a big problem as there is no airflow to the brakes. I'd probably run SRF and DTC-60 because of the heat. You'll kill the calipers- the seals can't take the heat and the paint will turn brown. You'll eat street pads on the track because they can't take the heat and will just wear out or crumble. I've seen gen 6 Camaro SS 1LE turn their calipers brown, and the Volvo is about the same weight with smaller brakes, less hp.

    7. #5
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by cleanerPA View Post
      Street pads don't work at the track on a heavy pig like these Volvos. Run separate street pads & rotors, have dedicated track pads & rotors, saves you from having to re-bed the rotors when you swap pads. How tight of a track and are you running with DSTC off?

      My street setup is Volvo rotors with Hawk HPS pads. Got both at a great discount from FCP, can now replace them for free every time!

      I've never run the track in my Volvo, but cooling is going to be a big problem as there is no airflow to the brakes. I'd probably run SRF and DTC-60 because of the heat. You'll kill the calipers- the seals can't take the heat and the paint will turn brown. You'll eat street pads on the track because they can't take the heat and will just wear out or crumble. I've seen gen 6 Camaro SS 1LE turn their calipers brown, and the Volvo is about the same weight with smaller brakes, less hp.
      You bring up a really good point about heat. It’s absolutely necessary to flush brake fluid after every track event due to heat wether tech looks or clean fluid or not. I don’t track a P2R anymore, but I ran titanium shims on the front and run them front and rear on my 2017 ZL1 that I track quite a bit.

      I don’t swap rotor and pads for track days, but I do swap pads religiously. I run Porterfield R12’s on the Camaro, but never tried them on the V70R. The Hawk DTC’s worked great.


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    8. #6
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      Used R1 Concepts GEOMET on my C6 Corvette which made 438 HP at the crank... Excellent!

      Just ordered their products for the R, too!

      https://www.r1concepts.com/?utm_sour...IaAu3aEALw_wcB

    9. #7
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      I personally run Brembos for daily and use stoptechs for the track but I havent hit the 400+ HP mark yet.
      I just use my warranty from FCP Euro after I destroy them.
      Im at about 345 and I'm noticing that the stoptechs arent stopping me as much anymore.
      I've used Hawks on a civic with 500Hp and they worked pretty well, but there is a significant difference between the weight of the cars.
      I've heard good things about EBC, but I'm not sure if they have pads for the R lines.

    10. #8
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      Changing your brake components will not significantly improve your braking ability on a cold stop. For repeated stops, the heat capacity of the rotors, pads and fluid will affect braking distances, but still will not improve your maximum braking ability. You're still limited by your tires.

      If you want to reduce consumables, you'll need to go to a racing setup that uses much, much thicker pads, two-piece rotors with better cooling, etc. Like this:
      https://www.essexparts.com/essex-des...mm-c7-corvette
      25mm thick pads, hard anodized brake caliper, stainless steel pistons, internal crossover tubes, forged construction, directionally vented rotors with high vane count, full floating disc hardware, etc. With this kind of a brake setup, guys running SCCA T1 with 500hp Corvettes get a full season out of one set of rotors. Stock brake system? You'll be changing rotors every race.

      You're going to have to address heat management if you want your stock brakes to work better- ducts, rotor backing plates, thermal shims, high temp brake fluid and pads. You're still going to eat brakes on a regular basis. I get 30k at the very maximum out of my front rotors, on the street, with one pad change, maybe two. Rotor metallurgy matters a lot- Volvo/Brembo/Zimmerman are fine, Centric are just okay, Raybestos suck. Pad selection is critical- some pads will eat rotors, others will not, but anything that can hold up to track driving will not be streetable (try stopping on a 40F day on racing pads- the brakes don't work). The only two piece rotor that I know of that is made for the R is Girodisc. I don't know much about them- you need to check the cost of the rotor rings before investing in a $725 pair of rotors. Maybe talk to George at Viva since they're the exclusive Girodisc retailer for Volvo.

    11. #9
      Junior Member b5v6's Avatar
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      I'm using Hawk pads with Stoptech cryo treated rotors and have been happy as hell.

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    12. #10
      Member Austin V70R's Avatar
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      We should also separate HP from braking as there’s no correlation between HP and braking performance. My track car makes 587HP and 611TQ at the wheels and I know guys with 1/2 the HP who eat a set of pads every track weekend... I generally get two weekends on a set of front pads.

      Girodisc and Hawk DTC with Motul 600 fluid worked great on my VR for track days. I swapped to stock pads for street use and the the rotors had lots of life after >30K miles when I sold the car.


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    13. #11
      Junior Member Rodtheviking's Avatar
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      Centric high carbon rotors with Akebono pads.

    14. #12
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      Quote Originally Posted by Austin V70R View Post
      We should also separate HP from braking as there’s no correlation between HP and braking performance. My track car makes 587HP and 611TQ at the wheels and I know guys with 1/2 the HP who eat a set of pads every track weekend... I generally get two weekends on a set of front pads.
      Pad life is directly correlated with how good your cooling ducts are!

      C5 and up Corvettes practically duct as much air to the brakes as they do to the radiator.

      Driver habits also play a key role. Some of like to stand the car on the front bumper in braking zones
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    15. #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by Noosy Cricket View Post
      Pad life is directly correlated with how good your cooling ducts are!

      C5 and up Corvettes practically duct as much air to the brakes as they do to the radiator.

      Driver habits also play a key role. Some of like to stand the car on the front bumper in braking zones
      Cooling is very important- Corvettes are not a great example because they don't actually have good brake cooling. C5s are crappy, C6s have ducts if you have a Z06/ZR1, but can be retrofitted, although you're better off getting a proper backing plate and actually running ducts to the backing plates, not just have an internal duct that just sends air into the wheelwell.

      Getting back to Volvos, you're probably going to have to fabricate backing plates from a modified stock one and run ducts to the backing plate. Also, figure out an air pathway from the front of the car to the brakes (like delete the fogs and the grilles and make a duct in there to go straight to the wheelwell).

    16. #14
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      Brembo wheels and yellow EBC, while satisfied, but I plan to switch to 6-piston calipers and a 380 mm disc
      Volvo s60 2,5 AWD 2004, 1/4 mile 12,18 187 km / h

    17. #15
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      Quote Originally Posted by khalil_y View Post
      And now that my car is around 440bhp, im eating through rotors faster than you can read this whole post :P
      How is your power level at all tied to your brake wear??
      04 V70R, 05 M3, 92 Stealth TT, 94 Stealth TT soon to be single T

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