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Another 2017 Drive E oil change question

4K views 48 replies 8 participants last post by  Ultrarunner511 
#1 ·
So I just changed the oil, gotta say what a mess! I changed oil on various Japanese cars and Volvo is just by far more complex and messy.

But that aside, I want to make sure that I did this right. Because after all was said and done, I looked at some online videos on realized that I did a couple things differently:

1. I put the filter into the housing, then tightened the housing. Is this acceptable, or does the filter have to be attached first, then the housing tightened after?
2. Where does the small rubber o-ring go? I replaced the o-ring on the inside of the contraption inside the filter housing. Had to unscrew the bolt on the underside of the filter housing, then press in with a screwdriver to get that part to come to replace the o-ring.

Hope I didn't mess anything up, but would appreciate any pointers from those more experienced with these cars.
 
#2 ·
So I just changed the oil, gotta say what a mess! I changed oil on various Japanese cars and Volvo is just by far more complex and messy.

But that aside, I want to make sure that I did this right. Because after all was said and done, I looked at some online videos on realized that I did a couple things differently:

1. I put the filter into the housing, then tightened the housing. Is this acceptable, or does the filter have to be attached first, then the housing tightened after?
2. Where does the small rubber o-ring go? I replaced the o-ring on the inside of the contraption inside the filter housing. Had to unscrew the bolt on the underside of the filter housing, then press in with a screwdriver to get that part to come to replace the o-ring.

Hope I didn't mess anything up, but would appreciate any pointers from those more experienced with these cars.
I'm no expert, but I understand proper maintenance after working on cars for a couple years (Chrysler and Jeep). But here's my take. Plenty of legit experts on here that can chime in though.

The filter cartridge can go in the oil filter housing first. It spins freely when in the housing. Be sure to use a torque wrench to correctly fit the housing when reinstalling though.

The small O-ring is the gasket for the small hex nut drain plug in the center of the oil filter housing. Some people drain the oil in a "cleaner" way by removing the nut first, then removing the entire housing after the oil is done draining. This helps the oil drain from the filter and housing in a more controlled manner. I've never drained it that way. I take the entire housing off. I've done it more times than I can count and it doesn't take much to clean up after you've done it a few times.
 
#8 ·
You can put the filter in the cup or in the car first, it doesn't matter.

Does that oil meet the updated spec? Might want to check that.
Funny how some dealers use the new 0w20 spec and some still use 5w30. Why is that?
 
#15 ·
[/QUOTE]
They shouldn't be.[/QUOTE]

My recently purchased 2020 XC90 T6 has a factory sticker calling for 5w30. The dealer I use continues recommending 5w30. It is strange because 0w20 is required and described in detail in Volvo's TJ's.
 
#16 · (Edited)
They shouldn't be.

My recently purchased 2020 XC90 T6 has a factory sticker calling for 5w30. The dealer I use continues recommending 5w30. It is strange because 0w20 is required and described in detail in Volvo's TJ's.
The updated owners manual for 2020 XC90's is 0w20.

 
#18 ·
Here in Phoenix, the air Temps exceed 110 degrees and the asphalt Temps exceed 170 degrees. I'd like a Volvo tech or engineer to explain how 0w20 is ideal for these conditions, even with my very conservative driving.
 
#19 ·
I don't think Volvo had in mind desert climates when designing the car. The fact that Volvo's initial usage of 5w30 caused premature wear on engines and/or piston rings, clearly shows the engineers didn't have the other extremes in mind at the time of development. Especially since 0w20 is now recommended, or should I say, has always been the proper oil. Just that the 5w30 was the next best thing as 0w20 was unavailable in the US.
 
#20 ·
Castrol's own website recommends 5w30 for my 2020 XC90 T6. No wonder this topic has been like splitting hairs for years.

Seeing as Castrol "partnered" with Jaguar, Land Rover, and Volvo only, I'm guessing this was a case of the lowest bidder, not the best oil for the specific engines.
 
#22 ·
Thank you all for the replies. This been a really annoying issue because I been looking it up all over, and couldn't find anything official from Volvo that would just list the oil specs. Mind boggling that they wouldn't correct the manuals or their app with the manual. I even wrote to Volvo and their response was that they aren't mechanics and can't help with mechanical issues. Obviously whomever they had answering emails, didn't even understand what I was asking.

Also, not so happy with FCP Euro and their advice, which was this: "...I was able to run your VIN through our external software and you can find both the correct oil change kit for your XC60 as well as the correct brake fluid on our site below: ... The 0W-20 oil would be only for extreme cold driving conditions and the same would apply for the Dot 4 LV."

So hopefully no engine failures with the Pennzoil 5w30 that I have in there for another week, till I get the right oil.
 
#23 ·
Thank you all for the replies. This been a really annoying issue because I been looking it up all over, and couldn't find anything official from Volvo that would just list the oil specs. Mind boggling that they wouldn't correct the manuals or their app with the manual.
That's the puzzling part for me too. They are a great resource but Volvo, why not correct your online owners manuals?
 
#28 ·
The ring issue affects many, I think most, car manufacturers for a few model years in the high MPG engines, especially the 2 litre DI Turbo high output versions. The oil ring is usually the only one redesigned but most have some changes in the second ring to the metal. The long oil drain interval and the oils readily available even to dealers was sludging in the oil ring groove and the low tension rings would stick. When the oil ring sticks it allows a MUCH too thick film of oil and that overwhelms the second ring's ability to do its dual role of oil control and compression sealing. Second rings are often found stuck too in "dirtier" engines. The problem was much less in Europe as they got better oil and used the 0W20 before kt was used in North America. High oil consumption can push much higher levels of detonation and break spark plug insulators from the greater shock.
Drive E engines are designed for the low vis oil in hot climates. Volvo sells cars all over the world and they still use a proving grounds in Phoenix area, and areas within a distance of there, for lots of testing. The variable oil pump uses a temp and pressure sensor as well as engine load to control its output.
 
#29 ·
Thank you very much for this information. After all my sifting and reading and very good advice here, I bought Castrol Edge 0w20 and will be changing it out tomorrow. Still gives me the hee-bee-jee-bees living here in Phoenix. But I'll trust the manufacturer over my dealer, the manufacturer sticker under my hood, and Castrol's website.
 
#31 ·
It's Castrol Edge in the black containers with the titanium. Since Castrol professional (I guess with the dye) is not available anywhere in the US. And what I have is *not* A5/B5 spec. Ugh......damnit. Haven't changed out yet. So Castrol's 5w30 is A5/B5, but 0w20 is not. Losing my mind here.
 
#34 ·
Thank you again for all the input. I'm still not understanding which is more important: viscosity or VCC RBS0-2AE A5/B5 spec. You must use 0w20 per Volvo's technical journal, but 0w20 with those specs is not available in the US. Multiple 5w30's have those specs, my car calls for 5w30, so does the manufacturer sticker, so does the dealer. But 0w20 is required.

The more I beat this dead horse, the more ridiculous this sounds.
 
#33 ·
After researching all this mess some more, it seems ACEA C5 0w20 is the oil with the VCC RBS0-2AE. But I certainly wouldn't put in anything that doesn't have the VCC RBS0-2AE in my car. I really hate all this European proprietary niche spec'd product business!
 
#38 ·
[/QUOTE]
VCC RBS0-2AE is the Volvo "developed" standard. Only some 0w20 oils have it. And it's a different certification from anything ACEA. But... I suspect that an ACEA C5 oil will meet VCC RBS0-2AE. It's just that I'm sure many manufacturers won't bother certifying their oils with Volvo, so we end up having to use some odd European brands like Castrol Professional or LiquiMoly.[/QUOTE]

I think I'll go with Liqui Moly Special Tech V, as this covers everything and is available through reputable places like FCPEuro.

Still interesting that, to the best of my abilities of searching, Castrol Edge professional is not available anywhere in the US.
 
#45 ·
VCC RBS0-2AE is the Volvo "developed" standard. Only some 0w20 oils have it. And it's a different certification from anything ACEA. But... I suspect that an ACEA C5 oil will meet VCC RBS0-2AE. It's just that I'm sure many manufacturers won't bother certifying their oils with Volvo, so we end up having to use some odd European brands like Castrol Professional or LiquiMoly.
I think I'll go with Liqui Moly Special Tech V, as this covers everything and is available through reputable places like FCPEuro.

Still interesting that, to the best of my abilities of searching, Castrol Edge professional is not available anywhere in the US.
Just got the LiquiMoly delivered from FCP Euro. Curious how that would work in terms of driving the car. I'm a big fan of Pennzoil Platinum, just because I find cars drive smoother with it, for whatever reason. So will be interesting to compare that to LiqiMoly.
 
#43 ·
According to Castrol, the Edge Professional V is ACEA A1/B1.
I mean taking Edge titanium and Edge Professional V titanium and breaking them down to what differences in contents there are, if any, besides the dye. My non-engineer brain tells me they are exactly the same, with the exception of branding. Castrol Edge titanium is exactly the same in regards to ACEA A1/B1. It does not say, however, that it is VCC RBS0-2AE, which now I understand is Volvo's specific branded certification.
 
#48 · (Edited)
Would like to post some feedback on the Liqui Moly 0W20 Special Tec V Engine Oil. So far, very pleased with it.

Just a bit of background: I've been doing my own oil changes forever. My previous cars were all Japanese--Nissans, Subarus, Toyotas. In the simpler times, oil choices were simple--just 10w30 or 5w30, and even most people in the know believed there not to be any difference between the brands. Just a fluid of a particular viscosity. So I would put in the right grade of oil, spin-on filter, and all done in 10mins. No ACEA, Dexos, etc., certs needed.

That is until I started experimenting with different oils and noticed that my car would drive somewhat different with different oil brands. Overall, I felt no huge differences using Valvoline, Mobil 1, or the WalMart brand. QuakerState felt different, the car was driving just a bit smoother. I was also a bit prejudiced against Pennzoil, because it was cheaper than other major brands and seemed overadvertised. That is until I tried Pennzoil Platinum--my car at the time drove far smoother and felt more responsive than with Mobil1 that I used before. So over the years, that became my oil of choice because every car I tried it in just seemed to like it better and I never had any issues with oil leaks/shrinking gaskets.

So from the experience and the feelings that go with it, I didn't expect much in switching from 5w30 Pennzoil to the VCC RBS0-2AE Liqui Moly. But I've been pleasantly surprised. I find that the engine is running smoother and is more responsive. Sure, it's different oil viscosity, but we all know by now that there is more to engine oil than just the viscosity. So far +1 for Liqui Moly!
 
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