Lower ball joint nut and removal '68 142
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    1. #1
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      Lower ball joint nut and removal '68 142

      The drivers side lower ball joint came off with no problem. I had to get a bit aggressive with a Dremel and a pry bar for the passenger side. Can someone tell me what size/thread the lower ball joint nut is for a '68 142? I bought some 1/2 - 20 but its a bit small, assuming 9/16 - 18 but wanted to confirm without taking the other one off again.

      Also, does anyone have some tips to keep the ball joint from spinning while tightening? I tried using a pry bar against the caliper bracket that connects the two ball joints but couldn't keep it from spinning.
      Last edited by cmills83; 07-02-2020 at 08:44 PM.

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    3. #2
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      If you use a jack to press the lower A arm / ball joint up into the knuckle, the friction of the ball joint spindle inside the knuckle should be enough to keep the spindle from spinning as you tighten the nut. Lift the jack enough and you will have all the weight of the front corner of the car pressing the knuckle onto the ball joint spindle. That should definitely stop it from spinning. If you have mangled the threads on the ball joint with the Dremel then the nut may be jamming on the threads causing the ball joint to spin. That would require a replacement ball joint. Lube the threads with some anti seize to help the nut spin on.

      I don't know the nut size; but, make sure that the replacement is a nylock nut.
      A 142 of course. What do you expect? I'm the 142 guy. / 1971 142 E 102 color

    4. #3
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      you sure it`s not metric sized ?

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    6. #4
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      Quote Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
      If you use a jack to press the lower A arm / ball joint up into the knuckle, the friction of the ball joint spindle inside the knuckle should be enough to keep the spindle from spinning as you tighten the nut. Lift the jack enough and you will have all the weight of the front corner of the car pressing the knuckle onto the ball joint spindle. That should definitely stop it from spinning. If you have mangled the threads on the ball joint with the Dremel then the nut may be jamming on the threads causing the ball joint to spin. That would require a replacement ball joint. Lube the threads with some anti seize to help the nut spin on.

      I don't know the nut size; but, make sure that the replacement is a nylock nut.
      Cool, will try. If not I’m going to notch the top so I can get a flathead screwdriver in there

    7. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by Thommykent View Post
      you sure it`s not metric sized ?
      Yes, it’s the original and 140 series are SAE not metric

    8. #6
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      Interesting

    9. #7
      Junior Member scaramoucheii's Avatar
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      Also make sure that the inside surface of the knuckle and the ball joint tapered surfaces are clean, dry and oil free. a piece of grit, sand, metal filings will not allow the tapered surfaces to seat and create the required friction, Spray the surfaces with brake cleaner to get the tapered surfaces clean dry and oil free.

      Also the Anti seize on the threads is great for the next time you do any work, I used it on all the nuts and bolts that I replaced, and as 142Guys notes makes assembly a little easier

      I use the Permatex which is available at ANY auto parts or hardware store

      https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
      Last edited by scaramoucheii; 07-03-2020 at 12:31 PM.
      Currently: 2016 XC90 T8, 1973 1800ES Original D-Jet, 1973 142 B20B, 1977 242 B230FT
      Previously: 1974 144 B20B, 1974 142 B20F, 1989 740, 1981 242 GLT, 1996 740, 1999 V70

    10. #8
      Junior Member scaramoucheii's Avatar
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      9/16-18 -Confirmed 10 min ago

      IMG_8550.jpg
      Currently: 2016 XC90 T8, 1973 1800ES Original D-Jet, 1973 142 B20B, 1977 242 B230FT
      Previously: 1974 144 B20B, 1974 142 B20F, 1989 740, 1981 242 GLT, 1996 740, 1999 V70

    11. #9
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      Perfect, thanks!

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