SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

Rebuild these calipers or buy new ones?

1K views 5 replies 5 participants last post by  DaWhole9 
#1 · (Edited)
Before I buy rebuild kits and go down that path I wanted to see if its worth it. I bought a front disc brake system from a newer Amazon (they think its a '67) to upgrade my 64 Wagon from front drums. The system is pretty rusty BUT all the parts are there...so even if I get new calipers and new rotors, I am ahead of the game as far as cost. As I am breaking the calipers down, I was wondering are these beyond rebuilding or should I proceed to break them down, replace the pistons and seals, and repaint them. Also were there more than one caliper for the single circuit system? These have a hard line connecting each side...the calipers I see for sale do not...have those and seem to be more like modern calipers with it internally routed from one side to the next. Another reason to get new calipers (a newer design?)...here are a few pics of my calipers....







 
See less See more
7
#2 ·
The outside appearance is not particularly relevant. Its what the pistons and bores look like. If they are clean / not rusty and no scores then they are candidates for a rebuild. The first step would be popping the pistons out to have a look at the bores. If the pistons are seized in place then start looking for rebuilds.

If you do try different calipers with different piston areas than the original calipers, that alters the hydraulic ratios in the system putting you onto the path of more modifications. There is not a lot to be had from different calipers until you start increasing rotor size.
 
#3 ·
I have rebuilt a set of 4 calipers, Mine were from a '73 so the fronts had the dual circuit. Mine looked just like yours , perhaps worse.

First thing is to ensure that the pistons are able to move and can be removed. Put a piece of material between the pads (a 1" x 2" piece of hard wood) and see if you can lever that back and forth and press the pistons back in, then use some compresses air on the hydraulic fitting to see if the pistons come back out. (If the Air doesn't move the pistons you may need to use some hydraulic pressure)

If you cannot get any movement, they may not be great candidates for rebuilding. To get the pistons out of both side you do need to have them all freed up first because if they are stuck, it is impossible to PULL them out.

I then used a reverse electrolysis bath (12VDC and Washing Soda Electrolyte) to remove all the rust.

Rock Auto and Parts Geek have some of the rebuild parts for discount prices, but I did have to get the o-rings that are used to connect the 2 halves together from VP (but commonly available from other European Parts Suppliers)

https://www.partsgeek.com/ymm/1967/volvo/122.html?sort=pop&scat=brake

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...310,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper+repair+kit,1720

Here is a pic of the calipers before final assembly, considering what they looked like before I thought that they were not repairable but after getting the pistons out and removing all the rust they went back together fine

Cobalt blue Blue Footwear Electric blue Shoe
 
#4 ·
I have these 3 piston calipers on my 1967, single circuit line. Those look like my (1967) front calipers- So yes to 1967.

I have a hard line on each of my 1967 front calipers and when I replaced them both (each side), I used a good line bending tool to make them look like original...

Several years ago, for just over $100 ($115?), I handed my pair of old 3 piston calipers to KING Caliper (they were local, sort of), and they handed me a pair of pretty, 3 piston, calipers that were rebuilt, with shoes. They are still on the car, and no problem ever- but I typically bleed all of my hydraulics annually- and just with standard Valvoline brake fluid.

I believe that if you google King caliper you may find an outfit in the south (Alabama or Georgia) -They bought them out. That is what I recall, as I was looking for another friend several months ago. I expect you might get the same service for this now...(?). You could always send (e-mail) the photos of those cores to see if they are acceptable. (I think so). I don't want to tell you what to do, and I know- it's typically easy enough to rebuild these. But these are cheap (rebuilt), and your time is probably worth more elsewhere. I know you have a nice old wagon you are working on.
 
#5 ·
Before I buy rebuild kits and go down that path I wanted to see if its worth it. I bought a front disc brake system from a newer Amazon (they think its a '67) to upgrade my 64 Wagon from front drums. The system is pretty rusty BUT all the parts are there...so even if I get new calipers and new rotors, I am ahead of the game as far as cost. As I am breaking the calipers down, I was wondering are these beyond rebuilding or should I proceed to break them down, replace the pistons and seals, and repaint them. Also were there more than one caliper for the single circuit system? These have a hard line connecting each side...the calipers I see for sale do not...have those and seem to be more like modern calipers with it internally routed from one side to the next. Another reason to get new calipers (a newer design?)...here are a few pics of my calipers....
To answer your questions:
your calipers can be rebuilt, but as others have pointed out: you won't know how bad they are until you open them up.
I strongly recommend splitting them, soaking them in Evaporust for a few days before actually doing anything else to them.
The pistons have the dust boots that you can see in your pics, but more importantly they have a seal around the base to keep brake fluid inside the calipers. If the lips for the seals/gaskets are pitted or worn, you will definitely have leaks and other issues.
Rebuilt calipers are available, VP sells both the rebuild kits and new calipers. The hard line is also available, although you have to bend it to fit.
The internal routing on some calipers uses a small seal, but the idea is the same.

I will eventually finish my video and post it on Youtube but rebuilding these is very straight forward. But, if the calipers are worn or heavily rusted around the pistons: don't waste your time.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top