2007 XC90 Basket Case
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    1. #1
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Jul 2020
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      1

      2007 XC90 Basket Case

      I bought a 2007 XC90 3.2 AWD with 180,000 miles on it. It was quite cheap, and it drives quite nicely, but it's got quite a collection of issues. Can you give me some nudges on these?

      1> I've got it scheduled for a serpentine replacement at my local indie Volvo shop.

      2> Both of the rear ABS sensors are throwing codes (and one of the wheel bearings is shot). Should it be enough to replace these to get my ABS back on line?

      3> The dreaded Steering Angle Sensor is associated with a goodly set of codes. With the shop quoting $650 to fix it, and the part on eBay showing up in the $350 range, and (from what I've gathered here) needing to be programmed at the shop even if I DIY it, I'm not going to be saving a lot of money doing it myself, right?

      4> I have the AWD oil pressure pump performance code, along with U0011400, P188914. If I swap the pump, filter and fluid, and at least tidy up, possibly replace the control module, am I likely to have a working AWD system, or is this liable to be a hole that I pour money into and get no love from?

      5> My torque mount is worn but my engine mounts are apparently good still. I only see the one on the passenger side - is it copacetic to just swap that?

      6> None (neither the front nor rear) windshield washer squirters work. The reservoir is full and I've checked the fuse. What's my next step for chasing this down?

      7> The shop indicated that the park assist was inoperative, but at a glance I didn't think I had that feature. How would I verify one way or the other?

      8> Are there obvious bits that I'm missing?

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    3. #2
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Jul 2015
      Location
      Calgary
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      452
      Well I just replaced a compressor because the clutch bearing seized and chewed up the case. At 150k miles I am still on the original belt and water pump. Idler pulleys I have changed. There seem to be a lot of bearings and one way bearings in that belt drive system. I think the belt will outlast any of the other components so be prepared to also change some other expensive parts.

      I've changed all wheel bearings due to noise. There were never any codes. Timken pairs from Rockauto filled the bill and were cheaper to the door that one from Volvo.

      We get an occasional anti-skid inoperative message when the wheel is cranked all the way in one direction. Restarting the car changes it to temporary off and it goes out soon after.

      By changing our AOC pump the AWD was restored.

      Torque mount I changed without changing other mounts. I believe I got the cheap one from FCP Euro.

      We have not had the other problems yet that you refer to.
      07 XC90 3.2

    4. #3
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      San Diego, CA.
      Posts
      399
      Quote Originally Posted by wotsac View Post
      I bought a 2007 XC90 3.2 AWD with 180,000 miles on it. It was quite cheap, and it drives quite nicely, but it's got quite a collection of issues. Can you give me some nudges on these?

      1> I've got it scheduled for a serpentine replacement at my local indie Volvo shop.

      2> Both of the rear ABS sensors are throwing codes (and one of the wheel bearings is shot). Should it be enough to replace these to get my ABS back on line?

      3> The dreaded Steering Angle Sensor is associated with a goodly set of codes. With the shop quoting $650 to fix it, and the part on eBay showing up in the $350 range, and (from what I've gathered here) needing to be programmed at the shop even if I DIY it, I'm not going to be saving a lot of money doing it myself, right?

      4> I have the AWD oil pressure pump performance code, along with U0011400, P188914. If I swap the pump, filter and fluid, and at least tidy up, possibly replace the control module, am I likely to have a working AWD system, or is this liable to be a hole that I pour money into and get no love from?

      5> My torque mount is worn but my engine mounts are apparently good still. I only see the one on the passenger side - is it copacetic to just swap that?

      6> None (neither the front nor rear) windshield washer squirters work. The reservoir is full and I've checked the fuse. What's my next step for chasing this down?

      7> The shop indicated that the park assist was inoperative, but at a glance I didn't think I had that feature. How would I verify one way or the other?

      8> Are there obvious bits that I'm missing?
      1>Look that one up, here. It can be done complete, or "lite". Complete is with water pump, thermostat, alternator drive, idler, tensioner, and belt.
      3> I bought one at the junk yard and replaced mine, no programming required. Then, put the original one on and returned the JY one, because my codes were from the ABS motor. I was just learning, so give me a break . Anyway, no programming.
      5> Upper torque mount could take 5 minutes, longer with beer or coffee. There's another one on the bottom you could look at. Well, there is on some years, like my '09, anyway.
      6> Any pump noise? It's hidden behind the right front fender liner, and is accessed by drilling out the pop rivets that hold on the fender liner. It may take grinding off the heads, but don't get it too warm. Liner and mounts are plastic. Maybe get away with clearing the lines and squirters with compressed air, soaking the TEE and elbows in vinegar, etc. Common failure is the Tee on the right side (of the car) blows the cap off and squirts all over the engine.
      7> There would be sensors. Mine has an aftermarket back-up sensor, and had a previous failed aftermarket system that I found and removed when exploring.
      2009 XC90 FWD 3.2, 2013 S60 T5
      In the past: '89 745, '91 940, '82 242, '67 122S, '67 123GT, '71 142E, '62 PV544.

    5. #4
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      May 2017
      Location
      Chicago & D.C. Metro
      Posts
      700
      Welcome to the XC90 community! 180k mils is quite a lot and if you don't know the maintenance history, you might have more to do than you anticipated.

      1. When you do the serpentine belt, everything is apart to do the water pump. This should be replaced at 100k miles normally. Also change the thermostat whenever the water pump is replaced. Ensure the shop changes the idler pulley and tensioner too.

      2. The rear ABS sensors could simply be dirty. If there is a rear bearing issue, perhaps metal shavings could have gotten onto the magnetic ABS sensor. First cheap step is to remove and wipe them down. Next would be to clean the ABS ring in case there is dirt on it too.

      3. The steering angle sensor does not need to be recoded. This can be a DIY after you read a couple write-ups and watch a few youtube videos. You can save money here. Only things I can recommend is to add a drop of blue loctite on the steering wheel bolt and don't forget to remove the small screw which locks the SAS in place before use.

      4. As was said, new haldex pump/filter/fluid should solve it. If the haldex fluid was never changed in the 180k miles, I would do another change of fluid and filter shortly after since there will be residual really old fluid that could affect the new pump.

      5. Again, at 180k miles, you might want to change the bottom 3 main engine mounts, at the least. They are difficult to check if good because they start to sag and collapse. The only way to really know is take them out and compare the height to new ones.

      6. Sounds like a connection, since it is for both washer pumps (front and rear) at the washer reservoir. Check the connection and if you can get access to it, see if you can read power at harness end when the squirters are activated. If the connection and power is good, then perhaps both pumps are bad if debris or dirt plugged them.

      7. If you see a button in the lower center console for the park assist, it's to turn it off and on, then your XC90 came with park assist.

      8. Some immediate things:
      -At 180k miles, you should change some fluids. Change the transmission fluid immediately using specific JWS3309 or T-IV fluid. Do NOT use multi-spec fluids like MaxLife.
      -If you have a turkey baster or fluid vacuum/pump, you can suck out the power steering fluid, then fill with Pentosin CHF 11S. Then turn on car to turn left to right a couple times, shut off car, then repeat drain/fill/turn wheel a couple times. I don't like to take off power steering hoses on older and higher mileage vehicles, but this method is safer for refreshing the fluid.
      -For the brakes, many times the bleeder screws can be frozen rusted on the caliper and will break if you attempt to remove them. Instead, clean the turkey baster and do a drain/refill of DOT 4 brake fluid from the brake reservoir.
      -Install a fresh set of spark plugs.
      -Replace air filter.
      -Replace cabin filter.

      Then the next phase would be to do the rear diff fluid and the angle gear fluid.
      2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 150k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Amazon Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

      About the XC90 3.2 - The good, the bad, and the ugly
      Upgrade front end rebuild with OEM, aftermarket, and original parts
      The better transmission JWS 3309/T-IV fluid for your 5 or 6 speed
      Strut Recommendations based on your specific XC90
      Why it's better to use synthetic oil instead of conventional

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