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    1. #106
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      I would talk to your service advisor before taking it in. They might tell you to wait for the light to come on.

      I've never done one for customer pay so I'd have to look up CP labor times. It's probably over $3k though CP. Warranty pays around 9 or 10 hours I think. Not a good job for techs.

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    3. #107
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      I would talk to your service advisor before taking it in. They might tell you to wait for the light to come on.

      I've never done one for customer pay so I'd have to look up CP labor times. It's probably over $3k though CP. Warranty pays around 9 or 10 hours I think. Not a good job for techs.
      I did call to ask / forewarn about the car burning oil. Service Advisor was swamped and kind of short. Just said bring it in our techs will check it. I think they're still down a tech and overwhelmed. Been like that for a while. Place does fantastic work so maybe they are very selective about who gets hired. Or maybe it's just hard to find good help.

      I've got the car coming in for door lock recall anyway, so not a complete wash. I just hope they play ball seeing how I'm a regular.

      By the way, how come techs hate warranty work? Is it because it pays for EXACT labor rate and you can't finish early to move on to another job? I.E. Customer pay on rings would be $3k or say 15 hours. It takes you 9 or 10. Meaning you get credit for 5.

    4. #108
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      Its hard to find good help. Experienced guys are staying with their dealer or getting out of the industry.

      Warranty work sucks for the vast majority of jobs. It always pays less than CP. But for a big job like that, I can make way more in CP work in the time it takes to do that job.

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    6. #109
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Its hard to find good help. Experienced guys are staying with their dealer or getting out of the industry.

      Warranty work sucks for the vast majority of jobs. It always pays less than CP. But for a big job like that, I can make way more in CP work in the time it takes to do that job.
      What I figured to be the case (hard to find good help and those with experience). After one of their guys left, they haven't seem to have found a replacement. You could read this both ways, but this dealer is always overwhelmed and booked out weeks in advance. So guys there have no shortage of work and little downtime. Maybe that's great for those with experience and wanting to earn top dollar, but maybe the dealer just can't find the right match for their existing crew. Who knows.

      How does flat rate work with most dealers? Is there a set percentage you get from each job out of the book hours or is this dependent upon experience and seniority? Do the new guys get the crappier jobs and senior techs get to cherry pick? I.E. Warranty Work to Newer people and CP to experienced techs? With exceptions of course on more complicated jobs where experience is a must (Piston Rings, Engine Rebuild, etc)

    7. #110
      Definition of Irony.....Soon as I rolled into Dealer Bay and held start button to check digital dipstick, it read "LOW".

    8. #111
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      Definition of Irony.....Soon as I rolled into Dealer Bay and held start button to check digital dipstick, it read "LOW".
      Actually good, right?

      It's like getting sick on the very day of your long-standing doctor's appointment. Perfect timing!

    9. #112
      Junior Member Sysyphus61's Avatar
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      Usually the other way around, isnít it? Stops making the noise as soon as you drive onto the mechanicís forecourt.
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    10. #113
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      The tech gets 100% of the book hours if he does 100% of the work. How the work is dispatched can vary from dealer to dealer.

    11. #114
      Junior Member T6dude's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Sysyphus61 View Post
      Usually the other way around, isnít it? Stops making the noise as soon as you drive onto the mechanicís forecourt.
      My daughter and I work in the tech industry and we call that a "proximity fix", just get close and it fixes things. Computers fear us just as cars fear Tech.
      Current: 2012 S60 R Design, P* tune - "Speedy Rabbit" (Named by granddaughter after a spirited run)
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    12. #115
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      Quote Originally Posted by T6dude View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by Sysyphus61 View Post
      Usually the other way around, isn’t it? Stops making the noise as soon as you drive onto the mechanic’s forecourt.
      My daughter and I work in the tech industry and we call that a "proximity fix", just get close and it fixes things. Computers fear us just as cars fear Tech.
      Haha yep. I can't even tell you how many times I've gone on test drives with customers and my mere presence fixed their noise. Too bad it doesn't pay anything.

    13. #116
      Quote Originally Posted by Dyno View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      Definition of Irony.....Soon as I rolled into Dealer Bay and held start button to check digital dipstick, it read "LOW".
      Actually good, right?

      It's like getting sick on the very day of your long-standing doctor's appointment. Perfect timing!
      Yep. No complaints here. It was OK but down and got to dealer and went low. Glad of course now a 2nd low after pcv / breather so definite lil burner. They'll call me tomorrow with update after tech takes gander.

    14. #117
      Quote Originally Posted by Sysyphus61 View Post
      Usually the other way around, isn’t it? Stops making the noise as soon as you drive onto the mechanic’s forecourt.
      Yep the very reason it's ironic. As you said, once you roll into bay, car usually puts on game face.... Im fine. Nothing to see here.

      Halfway expected that to happen.. Low oil light came as shocker.

    15. #118
      Quote Originally Posted by T6dude View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by Sysyphus61 View Post
      Usually the other way around, isn’t it? Stops making the noise as soon as you drive onto the mechanic’s forecourt.
      My daughter and I work in the tech industry and we call that a "proximity fix", just get close and it fixes things. Computers fear us just as cars fear Tech.
      I thougt the technical term was ID10T error. See, I work just fine. All the users fault. Nothing to see here.

    16. #119
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      The tech gets 100% of the book hours if he does 100% of the work. How the work is dispatched can vary from dealer to dealer.
      How does dealer make money on service if your pay is 100% book hour? Dealer doesn't get cut?

    17. #120
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by T6dude View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by Sysyphus61 View Post
      Usually the other way around, isn’t it? Stops making the noise as soon as you drive onto the mechanic’s forecourt.
      My daughter and I work in the tech industry and we call that a "proximity fix", just get close and it fixes things. Computers fear us just as cars fear Tech.
      Haha yep. I can't even tell you how many times I've gone on test drives with customers and my mere presence fixed their noise. Too bad it doesn't pay anything.
      Cars fear being fixed. Like a kid going to doctor for vaccinations. They know impending doom.

      FYI. Will hear back tomorrow from dealer on course of action. I told them timing belt, pulleys, serpentine and tensioners. They said you know you pay parts. Said yep and service manager said but no labor of course.

      Cant beat thst. Couple hundred bucks and assuming They say rings tomorrow, my car will be free of any major services until 225k. Cant beat that!! Only thing outside routine that I can think of would be spark plugs.

    18. #121
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      I don't make 100% of the labor rate. I make 100% of the labor time. The rate is the dollar amount per hour. If a dealer charges $150 an hour, they get $150 an hour. If the tech makes $30 an hour, he gets $30 of the $150.

      As for spark plugs, they might replace them with the job. I do and haven't had a problem having it on the warranty claim.

    19. #122
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      I don't make 100% of the labor rate. I make 100% of the labor time. The rate is the dollar amount per hour. If a dealer charges $150 an hour, they get $150 an hour. If the tech makes $30 an hour, he gets $30 of the $150.

      As for spark plugs, they might replace them with the job. I do and haven't had a problem having it on the warranty claim.
      Called yesterday. Engine being torn down for new rings. So thsts good news. Now no need to worry about rings in future.

      Thought about plugs, think I had them done at 60k service. Only 15k on them atm.

      It'l it $400 in parts for timing belt and serpentine belt.

      Dealer charging no labor.

      Great experience with dealer as usual so far. No bickering,always straight to the point on resolving issues.

    20. #123
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      I don't make 100% of the labor rate. I make 100% of the labor time. The rate is the dollar amount per hour. If a dealer charges $150 an hour, they get $150 an hour. If the tech makes $30 an hour, he gets $30 of the $150.

      As for spark plugs, they might replace them with the job. I do and haven't had a problem having it on the warranty claim.
      Remember when a good tech made 40-50% of flat rate labor?
      2016 XC70 2.5L T5 AWD, Platinum, Seashell/black, ipd rear bar, Curt hitch and wiring
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      Non-Volvos previously owned: waaay too many to list here. WWRBGD

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    21. #124
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      Quote Originally Posted by halfast3 View Post
      Remember when a good tech made 40-50% of flat rate labor?
      Before shops had to carry 200k in specific equipment to work on one specific brand. i promise a r12 ac machine did not cost $7700 like the r1234yf machine we just bought a second of so do recharges on 2020MY+.

      the best one is with the electric cars coming, they want new lifts installed, rough estimate is 400k to replace half of our 12 lifts with in ground 2 post lifts so we can lift EVs properly. shoot we have thousands in wifi equipment just to do wireless software downloads. ahhh how the business has changed

    22. #125
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      Quote Originally Posted by brich999 View Post
      Before shops had to carry 200k in specific equipment to work on one specific brand. i promise a r12 ac machine did not cost $7700 like the r1234yf machine we just bought a second of so do recharges on 2020MY+.

      the best one is with the electric cars coming, they want new lifts installed, rough estimate is 400k to replace half of our 12 lifts with in ground 2 post lifts so we can lift EVs properly. shoot we have thousands in wifi equipment just to do wireless software downloads. ahhh how the business has changed
      We faced similar issues (albeit with much smaller numbers) at Y2k when we decided on a career change.
      2016 XC70 2.5L T5 AWD, Platinum, Seashell/black, ipd rear bar, Curt hitch and wiring
      Previous Volvos: '16 V60CC, ours; 7? 245DL & '6? 145DL, hers; '68 122S Wagon, his.
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      Please *VOTE*

    23. #126
      Junior Member meade18's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      Called yesterday. Engine being torn down for new rings. So thsts good news. Now no need to worry about rings in future.

      Thought about plugs, think I had them done at 60k service. Only 15k on them atm.

      It'l it $400 in parts for timing belt and serpentine belt.

      Dealer charging no labor.

      Great experience with dealer as usual so far. No bickering,always straight to the point on resolving issues.
      You have found a great dealer. You are very fortunate with the very few hoops they made you jump through to get your car fixed. I wish I could have gotten this same attention in as few trips to the dealer as you (and my consumption problem was exponentially higher). Did you get a nice loaner?
      2015.5 Volvo V60 Premier T5 (2.0T Drive-E) FWD (with a new engine)

    24. #127
      Quote Originally Posted by meade18 View Post

      You have found a great dealer. You are very fortunate with the very few hoops they made you jump through to get your car fixed. I wish I could have gotten this same attention in as few trips to the dealer as you (and my consumption problem was exponentially higher). Did you get a nice loaner?
      It's the very reason I drive 90 miles each way. If I took this issue to my local, I'd be pulling out my hear. They never made an issue quick and painless. Plus they offer shuttle rides. Although, I believe they finally instituted a selective loaner program, but I've not gone there to find out. They refused to assist me on consumption issue to top off oil.

      Preferred dealer uses older loaners mostly. No big deal. One I got now is a 2014 S60. I just needed a set of wheels. Nothing fancy.

    25. #128
      Member Oceans60R's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      It's the very reason I drive 90 miles each way. If I took this issue to my local, I'd be pulling out my hear. They never made an issue quick and painless. Plus they offer shuttle rides. Although, I believe they finally instituted a selective loaner program, but I've not gone there to find out. They refused to assist me on consumption issue to top off oil.

      Preferred dealer uses older loaners mostly. No big deal. One I got now is a 2014 S60. I just needed a set of wheels. Nothing fancy.
      Only reason I can think of a dealer not wanting to do the piston job is the techs aren't comfortable doing them or they are not efficient enough to make time.
      It's a very profitable job once you've completed a few. T6 2.0's though due suck a bit, as the supercharger does not like to release itself when asked nicely.

      All loaner cars are bought and owned by the dealer. They are not provided to customers from Volvo directly. Many people think otherwise and demand loaner cars for things as simple as a light bulb. Loaner fleets very greatly from dealer to dealer. If the vehicle you are given as a loaner has over 6500 miles, its most likely one of their used cars. It's one of the reasons many dealers are charging $150+/hour is because those loaners aren't free and people expect them so they have to pay for them.

      Someone asked earlier in this thread for Customer Pay time. Alldata lists the job at 22.5hrs for a T5 4 cyl 2.0. Making it a coveted ticket. T5 2.5L 5cyl are 21.5hrs and even more liked for that job.
      Another heads up for anyone thinking about purchasing an extended warranty to possibly cover this repair. Don't. I have not had ONE extended warranty company (third party) pay one nickel for ANY oil consumption issue other than the PCV box.
      The only exception is Carmax. They pay. To be honest Carmax is pretty stellar in their extended warranty department with ANY issue that they claim to cover. CPO obviously pays. But we have even butted heads with Volvo's VIP warranty which is underwritten by a third party. Although they recently switched underwriters so we'll see.
      The excuse they always use is oil consumption is not covered and nor is carbon buildup as they will claim a maintenance issue.
      2011 S60 T6 Ember Black/Off Black, P* Tune, TDI-Tuning Box, DO88 Intercooler, IPD DP, Simons Sport Exhaust, IPD rear sway bar, H&R Springs, Bilstein B8's, 19" Polestar Wheels, 90mm Wheel Studs

    26. #129
      Junior Member meade18's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Oceans60R View Post
      Only reason I can think of a dealer not wanting to do the piston job is the techs aren't comfortable doing them or they are not efficient enough to make time.
      It's a very profitable job once you've completed a few. T6 2.0's though due suck a bit, as the supercharger does not like to release itself when asked nicely.

      All loaner cars are bought and owned by the dealer. They are not provided to customers from Volvo directly. Many people think otherwise and demand loaner cars for things as simple as a light bulb. Loaner fleets very greatly from dealer to dealer. If the vehicle you are given as a loaner has over 6500 miles, its most likely one of their used cars. It's one of the reasons many dealers are charging $150+/hour is because those loaners aren't free and people expect them so they have to pay for them.

      Someone asked earlier in this thread for Customer Pay time. Alldata lists the job at 22.5hrs for a T5 4 cyl 2.0. Making it a coveted ticket. T5 2.5L 5cyl are 21.5hrs and even more liked for that job.
      Another heads up for anyone thinking about purchasing an extended warranty to possibly cover this repair. Don't. I have not had ONE extended warranty company (third party) pay one nickel for ANY oil consumption issue other than the PCV box.
      The only exception is Carmax. They pay. To be honest Carmax is pretty stellar in their extended warranty department with ANY issue that they claim to cover. CPO obviously pays. But we have even butted heads with Volvo's VIP warranty which is underwritten by a third party. Although they recently switched underwriters so we'll see.
      The excuse they always use is oil consumption is not covered and nor is carbon buildup as they will claim a maintenance issue.
      Super useful post, especially the part about the warranty coverage. Thank you.
      I was going to be the guinea pig on this board with oil consumption and the VIP warranty, but it turned out I had a broken piston (which was covered) and not just "consumption" from rings that needed to be replaced, so my case never made it to the point where the VIP underwriter had to decide whether to cover the piston/ring job or not. I'm sad to see they don't cover it, but at least we now know not to recommend buying a VIP extended warranty when coming across a consumption issue outside of the factory warranty. It seems like the best move is to just get rid of the car. And to factor in the cost of this repair when purchasing any early drive-e powered vehicle. Or just avoid them altogether.
      2015.5 Volvo V60 Premier T5 (2.0T Drive-E) FWD (with a new engine)

    27. #130
      Quote Originally Posted by Oceans60R View Post

      Only reason I can think of a dealer not wanting to do the piston job is the techs aren't comfortable doing them or they are not efficient enough to make time.
      Local wouldn't even do a courtesy for another dealer. Dealer had me ask if they'd top off oil when I came rollin up to local with low oil light. Local refused and wanted to charge me $200 for oil change. Called preferred and they were like what the hell.

      So I called Volvo roadside, explained I'm not driving my car 90 miles to aother dealer with low oil light on. I have no way lf knowing how low it is. Volvo roadside towed me entire way and were very apologetic.

      Quote Originally Posted by Oceans60R View Post
      It's a very profitable job once you've completed a few. T6 2.0's though due suck a bit, as the supercharger does not like to release itself when asked nicely.
      Tech indicated that techs hate warranty piston jobs. Way more money could be earned doing other work in same time frame.

      Quote Originally Posted by Oceans60R View Post
      All loaner cars are bought and owned by the dealer. They are not provided to customers from Volvo directly. Many people think otherwise and demand loaner cars for things as simple as a light bulb. Loaner fleets very greatly from dealer to dealer. If the vehicle you are given as a loaner has over 6500 miles, its most likely one of their used cars. It's one of the reasons many dealers are charging $150+/hour is because those loaners aren't free and people expect them so they have to pay for them.
      I'm nowhere near wealthy. I'm happy just to get a set of wheels while my car is being repaired. I don't need a 2020.

      Maybe others have a higher expectation than I do.

      [QUOTE=Oceans60R;7677991]
      Someone asked earlier in this thread for Customer Pay time. Alldata lists the job at 22.5hrs for a T5 4 cyl 2.0. Making it a coveted ticket. T5 2.5L 5cyl are 21.5hrs and even more liked for that job.

      Tech said CPO pays 10 hrs I believe. Not very coveted.

      Quote Originally Posted by Oceans60R View Post
      Another heads up for anyone thinking about purchasing an extended warranty to possibly cover this repair. Don't. I have not had ONE extended warranty company (third party) pay one nickel for ANY oil consumption issue other than the PCV box.
      The only exception is Carmax. They pay. To be honest Carmax is pretty stellar in their extended warranty department with ANY issue that they claim to cover. CPO obviously pays. But we have even butted heads with Volvo's VIP warranty which is underwritten by a third party. Although they recently switched underwriters so we'll see.
      The excuse they always use is oil consumption is not covered and nor is carbon buildup as they will claim a maintenance issue.
      Old CPO covered everything. Not sure on 5 yr / unlimited but I presume so. Ironically if I had the 5 yr/unlimited, my oil change was done 4 days before 5 y mark. It was 2500 miles after I got low oil.

      Ive got old CPO but eithet way I'm 100% Volvo woukd have goodwilled my issue. All maintenance done by same dealer 10 to 70k.

    28. #131
      Senior Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by meade18 View Post
      Super useful post, especially the part about the warranty coverage. Thank you.
      I was going to be the guinea pig on this board with oil consumption and the VIP warranty, but it turned out I had a broken piston (which was covered) and not just "consumption" from rings that needed to be replaced, so my case never made it to the point where the VIP underwriter had to decide whether to cover the piston/ring job or not. I'm sad to see they don't cover it, but at least we now know not to recommend buying a VIP extended warranty when coming across a consumption issue outside of the factory warranty. It seems like the best move is to just get rid of the car. And to factor in the cost of this repair when purchasing any early drive-e powered vehicle. Or just avoid them altogether.
      It's covered as long as a "Mechanical Breakdown" has occurred, though conveniently that capitalized term is not defined in the brochure:

      ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
      This optional Vehicle Protection Plan will not pay or
      reimburse for mechanical breakdowns caused by misuse,
      abuse, negligence (including the negligence of any repair
      facility), improper towing, lack of maintenance of the failed
      covered part, contamination, damage as the result of
      continued operation with an overheat condition, lack of
      coolant or lubricants, lack of oil viscosity, sludge, restricted
      oil flow, salt, rust and rust damage, environmental
      damage or chemicals.

      No payment or reimbursement for the correction of
      oil consumption, repair of worn rings, or any repairs for
      reduction in engine efficiency that must be performed
      on your vehicle when a Mechanical Breakdown has not
      occurred. See service contract for complete details.
      Past: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60R M, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD, '05 V70R GT
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    29. #132
      Quote Originally Posted by Wayne T5 View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by meade18 View Post
      Super useful post, especially the part about the warranty coverage. Thank you.
      I was going to be the guinea pig on this board with oil consumption and the VIP warranty, but it turned out I had a broken piston (which was covered) and not just "consumption" from rings that needed to be replaced, so my case never made it to the point where the VIP underwriter had to decide whether to cover the piston/ring job or not. I'm sad to see they don't cover it, but at least we now know not to recommend buying a VIP extended warranty when coming across a consumption issue outside of the factory warranty. It seems like the best move is to just get rid of the car. And to factor in the cost of this repair when purchasing any early drive-e powered vehicle. Or just avoid them altogether.
      It's covered as long as a "Mechanical Breakdown" has occurred, though conveniently that capitalized term is not defined in the brochure:

      ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
      This optional Vehicle Protection Plan will not pay or
      reimburse for mechanical breakdowns caused by misuse,
      abuse, negligence (including the negligence of any repair
      facility), improper towing, lack of maintenance of the failed
      covered part, contamination, damage as the result of
      continued operation with an overheat condition, lack of
      coolant or lubricants, lack of oil viscosity, sludge, restricted
      oil flow, salt, rust and rust damage, environmental
      damage or chemicals.

      No payment or reimbursement for the correction of
      oil consumption, repair of worn rings, or any repairs for
      reduction in engine efficiency that must be performed
      on your vehicle when a Mechanical Breakdown has not
      occurred. See service contract for complete details.
      Which is basically saying you must trash your engine before warranty pays up.

      Meaning ignore low oil light and keep driving?

      Or is that a cynical interpretation?

    30. #133
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      Some guys might like doing them. If the shop is slow then it isn't bad. But if the shop has plenty of CP work coming in, I'd prefer not to be stuck on a warranty piston job.

      I don't remember exactly what it pays warranty. The AllData times mentioned are customer pay times.

    31. #134
      Senior Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      Which is basically saying you must trash your engine before warranty pays up.

      Meaning ignore low oil light and keep driving?

      Or is that a cynical interpretation?
      The first part of that section says that the warranty does not pay if the mechanical breakdown is caused by damage as the result of continued operation with lack of lubricants - that would mean you couldn't just ignore the low oil light.

      My view is that under this warranty language you'd keep adding oil until it is being burned to such an extent that it fouls the plugs and starts setting CEL's for engine performance. I don't know how significant oil consumption needs to be to trigger CEL's and misfires - a quart every 200 miles, 500 miles?
      Past: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60R M, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD, '05 V70R GT
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    32. #135
      Quote Originally Posted by Wayne T5 View Post

      The first part of that section says that the warranty does not pay if the mechanical breakdown is caused by damage as the result of continued operation with lack of lubricants - that would mean you couldn't just ignore the low oil light.

      My view is that under this warranty language you'd keep adding oil until it is being burned to such an extent that it fouls the plugs and starts setting CEL's for engine performance. I don't know how significant oil consumption needs to be to trigger CEL's and misfires - a quart every 200 miles, 500 miles?
      I guess that depends. My low oil light never came on at startup. The only way I knew there was an issue both times was by holding down ignition button and checking digital dipstick. Not sure if thats another issue in itself as digital dipstick showed low with ignition depressed but no warning on console otherwise.

      So engine could get trashed without customers knowing?

    33. #136
      Junior Member meade18's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Wayne T5 View Post
      The first part of that section says that the warranty does not pay if the mechanical breakdown is caused by damage as the result of continued operation with lack of lubricants - that would mean you couldn't just ignore the low oil light.

      My view is that under this warranty language you'd keep adding oil until it is being burned to such an extent that it fouls the plugs and starts setting CEL's for engine performance. I don't know how significant oil consumption needs to be to trigger CEL's and misfires - a quart every 200 miles, 500 miles?
      Good guess! I was fouling plugs and my car was going into limp mode with my oil consumption right around a quart every 300 miles.

      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      I guess that depends. My low oil light never came on at startup. The only way I knew there was an issue both times was by holding down ignition button and checking digital dipstick. Not sure if thats another issue in itself as digital dipstick showed low with ignition depressed but no warning on console otherwise.

      So engine could get trashed without customers knowing?
      No. I thought I already explained this. You would have eventually gotten the "low oil/add a quart" message at start up. This happened to me once where the car said it was low when I checked, but didn't warn me about it at start up. Then about 2-3 days later, it warned me at start up.
      Last edited by meade18; 09-20-2020 at 10:24 PM.
      2015.5 Volvo V60 Premier T5 (2.0T Drive-E) FWD (with a new engine)

    34. #137
      Quote Originally Posted by meade18 View Post

      No. I thought I already explained this. You would have eventually gotten the "low oil/add a quart" message at start up. This happened to me once where the car said it was low when I checked, but didn't warn me about it at start up. Then about 2-3 days later, it warned me at start up.
      I recall you saying that to me, but wondered if that's always the case! Does the low always appear at some point, even when you first only see it in ignition mode?

    35. #138
      UPDATE

      Quote Originally Posted by Peter1234
      I recall you saying that to me, but wondered if that's always the case! Does the low always appear at some point, even when you first only see it in ignition mode?


      Yes. First there is no oil level indication, then "Add oil" appears when oil level drops additional few mm - 1-2 days or a week later. Very easy to observe on a smarthpone with the Car Scanner Elm Obd2 app.
      Dealer still working on car. I told them take their time! My face looks like I got into a bar fight and I have a fever. Got a damn abscessed tooth that can't get taken care of by dentist until next week. So I'm in no rush to drive 90 miles each way at the moment.

      Anyway, Dealer finished piston ring job.....and Did the following

      1. New Thermostat under TJ due to code - Warranty
      2. Car ran Rough so new computer box to correct issue - with new thermostat - Warranty
      3. Piston Rings redone - Warranty
      4. They are replacing the drivers weatherstripping under warranty. I emailed execs. Regret this a bit.

      A. Didn't ask for Passenger side and that is doing it now a bit Only drivers got approved on my initial request.
      B. I just got a call back the labor on replacing cupholder rubber is $300 + part. They gave me a figure of $65 on the OLD insert. So I nixed that one.

      I could have bought and done the weather stripping as I've taken that all off. I'll order the passengers and install myself. No biggie. Dealer part is $200 for drivers side. Again, wish I'd asked for passengers too or cupholder!

      A few folks on here have done the cupholders and live along routes I travel. Maybe I'll bug someone in the future for some help on how to do it at some point.

    36. #139
      Member p.rico's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      UPDATE

      A few folks on here have done the cupholders and live along routes I travel. Maybe I'll bug someone in the future for some help on how to do it at some point.
      You're making it out to be more difficult than it is. Take a 1.5 hour block of time and do it slowly. Trust me, you will not break a single thing. If you can do weather stripping and taking off pillar covers (as I recall you did once to wire your dash cam), you're more than capable of this.
      2012 S60 T6 AWD - Vibrant Copper - Premium Package - Climate Package - Multimedia Package - BLIS - Polestar Optimization + Mods galore
      Running intro/install/DIY thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...w-S60-T6-Owner!

    37. #140
      Googling this issue with my 2015.5 V60 and saw this.

      Today, I was driving my V60 and the low oil pressure light came on. Took it to the dealer and they said to add oil.
      I'm thinking a quart, so I take it to my trusted mechanic. Open the hood, check the dipstick, and it's basically empty.
      Mechanic added about 5 quarts of oil.

      My CPO warranty ended about 7,000 miles ago and this is the first time I've had this issue.

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