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    1. #36
      Quote Originally Posted by Venth View Post
      Did you watch the video..? You know the whole oil scrapper ring looking nice and plugged up on the outside and the inside showing lots of tiny holes?

      Large amounts of low load, low RPM Highway cruising at best doesn't help the issue; at worse it contributes by creating more carbon. This is the opposite of an Italian tuneup.
      Highwayman has the right idea. It's high RPM passing (like expedient passing on opposing lane on rural highways) and on-ramp acceleration (to a lesser degree), that gets the engine nice and hot.

      Next time you're on the highway (with a warmed up engine), set the transmission on manual mode; cruise on the highway at least 3-4 gears below than the usual; running at least 5000 RPM for 5 minutes.

      Our cars are tuned for max torque in low RPM (1500 in some cases) combined with a fuel efficient 8 speed transmission; these kind of driving have to be manual unless you're regularly triggering the kick-down switch on your gas pedal.
      By no means am I getting to 5000 RPM's. However, I only use cruise control about 30% when driving on highway. I would honestly guess eco mode is the worst on a car. It downshifts the car into 1500 RPM. Whereas normal driving is around 2000-2500. All in the name of fuel economy.

      Once in a while I'll screw with sport mode.

      So basically the only way to get the car running proper and from developing oil consumption on the old rings is manual mode and get it to 5000 RPM on a semi regular basis?

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    3. #37

      Tech or Any Volvo Tech - Important Question - Software or Consumption Issue?

      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      That's the very reason why I Trek 90 miles each way to these guys. No nonsense dealership. They have let me down only once on seatbelt issue. Failed to retract, they insisted on lubing, and a month later the damn thing failed to retract ever again and got slammed in my door. Nice dent in the inner door lip to show for it.

      They saw a Thermostat code said the breather box was definitely gunked up an replaced. Whether the breather box is the reason the oil was burning or the pistons will be a wait and see. Come back in 2000 miles. Glad this is documented. I still got 27,500 or 22 months left on CPO. So ideally, this will get resolved sooner than later. However, since they are away of the issue, I'm not too worried. If it is the pistons, it'll show up I am sure.

      I'm not a fan of the digital dipstick. Had I not checked the levels, no message popped up warning me. I asked dealer about draining and measuring, but they said they didn't do that. They felt there was definitely a consumption issue but whether breather or piston rings is to be determined.

      Car was just serviced for 70k by them 2500 miles ago, too.
      Excessive crankcase pressure can indeed cause you to burn more oil. A faulty air oil separator will also cause the oil that should be returned to the crankcase to be put back into the intake to be burned. Causing a double whammy. Combine that with rings that might not be sealing as well as they should be and voila. Oil guzzler. Let that thing get gunked up again by infrequent oil changes and your next problem will be seals somewhere. Hope it all works out.


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    4. #38
      Quote Originally Posted by paradoxicallymodified View Post
      Excessive crankcase pressure can indeed cause you to burn more oil. A faulty air oil separator will also cause the oil that should be returned to the crankcase to be put back into the intake to be burned. Causing a double whammy. Combine that with rings that might not be sealing as well as they should be and voila. Oil guzzler. Let that thing get gunked up again by infrequent oil changes and your next problem will be seals somewhere. Hope it all works out.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
      I follow Volvo's recommended service schedule of oil changes every 10K miles. I know there's been a lot of debate if that's way too long to wait in between services. Luckily, car is still under warranty with plenty of time on the clock. So we'll definitely know sooner than later if the rings are the culprit. All of it on Volvo's dime. Even the 90 mile tow. And guess what, if the low oil returns, I'll make them tow me again! No way am I burning my AAA tows.
      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 08-09-2020 at 08:52 AM.

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    6. #39
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      The oil scrapper ring somehow manages to get the job done. But I somewhat disagree on running these engines at 5000 RPMs on manual mode in lower gears....That's a lot of stress on the engine. All I do is get it to 4000 to 5000 RPMs (nice growl from engine, drive with windows down to really hear the growl) on ramps and aggressive highway passing situations. And keep it on 2500 RPMs (about 85 mph) for at least 1-2 minutes on stretches of the road where there are no cops. 2500 RPMs 85 mph is this engine's sweet spot and I think it's what's kept mine alive for 119,000 miles.
      2012 S60 T5 FWD & 2013 XC90 AWD

    7. #40
      Quote Originally Posted by Highwayman View Post
      The oil scrapper ring somehow manages to get the job done. But I somewhat disagree on running these engines at 5000 RPMs on manual mode in lower gears....That's a lot of stress on the engine. All I do is get it to 4000 to 5000 RPMs (nice growl from engine, drive with windows down to really hear the growl) on ramps and aggressive highway passing situations. And keep it on 2500 RPMs (about 85 mph) for at least 1-2 minutes on stretches of the road where there are no cops. 2500 RPMs 85 mph is this engine's sweet spot and I think it's what's kept mine alive for 119,000 miles.
      You've had an engine replacement though. So it seems even bringing engine up to temp isn't a fail safe. I regularly gun it when getting on expressway, for no other reason than I like to and it's fun. I also don't use cruise control a lot. Mainly on long drives and when it's important to get good gas mileage. In summer, Eco mode makes no sense as it disables AC.

    8. #41
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      My 2005 S60 2.5T has the oil changed at 3000 mile intervals, per my decision. I bought the car in 2017 with 102,000 miles, and it now has 125,000 miles. The oil change interval was based on my desire to keep the turbo bearings, and the turbo itself, going for as long as possible, because that would be an expensive repair.

    9. #42
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      By no means am I getting to 5000 RPM's. However, I only use cruise control about 30% when driving on highway. I would honestly guess eco mode is the worst on a car. It downshifts the car into 1500 RPM. Whereas normal driving is around 2000-2500. All in the name of fuel economy.

      Once in a while I'll screw with sport mode.

      So basically the only way to get the car running proper and from developing oil consumption on the old rings is manual mode and get it to 5000 RPM on a semi regular basis?
      How regular depends on how much granny driving you do. i.e. Do the tuneup when you start noticing you're losing oil. You don't even have to wait till the add 1 quart message shows up. Other people in the thread have provided methods to do this without VIDA and DICE.

      On the other hand: Since you're still under CPO warranty, you can take advantage of this knowledge, avoid hard driving, and have the rings replaced on Volvo's dime.
      2017 V60 P*

    10. #43
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      Quote Originally Posted by Highwayman View Post
      The oil scrapper ring somehow manages to get the job done. But I somewhat disagree on running these engines at 5000 RPMs on manual mode in lower gears....That's a lot of stress on the engine. All I do is get it to 4000 to 5000 RPMs (nice growl from engine, drive with windows down to really hear the growl) on ramps and aggressive highway passing situations. And keep it on 2500 RPMs (about 85 mph) for at least 1-2 minutes on stretches of the road where there are no cops. 2500 RPMs 85 mph is this engine's sweet spot and I think it's what's kept mine alive for 119,000 miles.
      Your engine is built with a very specific RPM tolerance (aka Red-line) when it comes to longevity and warranty. You're welcome to keep your revs lower for NVH but please don't conflate the two things.

      The only exception I'm aware of with this rule is for cold engines. Even then, most brands are starting to adopt a temp-based rev limiter.
      Last edited by Venth; 08-09-2020 at 12:32 PM.
      2017 V60 P*

    11. #44
      Quote Originally Posted by Venth View Post
      How regular depends on how much granny driving you do. i.e. Do the tuneup when you start noticing you're losing oil. You don't even have to wait till the add 1 quart message shows up. Other people in the thread have provided methods to do this without VIDA and DICE.

      On the other hand: Since you're still under CPO warranty, you can take advantage of this knowledge, avoid hard driving, and have the rings replaced on Volvo's dime.
      I'm an Asshole Driver, but a safe one. I gun it to rev engine and pass annoyingly slow drivers. Only on longer highway drives do I bother with Eco mode. So I would think since I only use eco 30% of time, my car would be broken in just fine. Again, I don't get it to 5000 RPM but I do accelerate to pass and get on ramps.

      Not granny driving much, that's for sale.

      Yes, if the breather box doesn't resolve, it'll be on Volvo's Dime for the rings. Tow + Breather box was already at Volvo's Expense.

    12. #45
      Senior Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      Yes, if the breather box doesn't resolve, it'll be on Volvo's Dime for the rings. Tow + Breather box was already at Volvo's Expense.
      Breather box is covered by CPO?
      Past: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60R M, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD, '05 V70R GT
      Present: '95 854 T-5R, '06 XC70, '15 XC70 T6, '15.5 XC60 T6, '16 V60 P*

    13. #46
      Quote Originally Posted by Wayne T5 View Post
      Breather box is covered by CPO?
      Yep and without any fanfare or argument. I had my car towed up the 90 miles to dealer on Volvo's Dime and Preferred Dealer verified low oil light. Because it was such a short notice visit, no loaner car, so I had to hang around dealer for about 3-4 hours. Breather Box was replaced via CPO. If this doesn't resolve, next step is piston rings via CPO. I've got the old 7 yr / 100K on my 15.5 so it doesn't have all those exclusionary clauses.

      My preferred dealer has handled all services on my vehicle from 10-70K, along with any warranty repairs. So there's no questions what so ever about whom did what and when. And since they know I drive 90 miles each way, they didn't waste my time topping it off to see if it came back. Straight to breather box replacement under CPO. According to them, and I cannot verify, I was told by service manager breather box was dirty and blocked.
      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 08-09-2020 at 05:29 PM.

    14. #47
      Junior Member meade18's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      And guess what, if the low oil returns, I'll make them tow me again! No way am I burning my AAA tows.
      Just a suggestion for your own sanity: next time you get the low oil indicator, take a picture of it and the odometer and call the dealer to have it documented. Have them decide what they are going to do before going there, and then wait to schedule it so that you get a loaner. In the mean time, add a quart of oil yourself and drive the car there to avoid the hassle of a tow truck.
      2015.5 Volvo V60 Premier T5 (2.0T Drive-E) FWD (with a new engine)

    15. #48
      Quote Originally Posted by meade18 View Post
      Just a suggestion for your own sanity: next time you get the low oil indicator, take a picture of it and the odometer and call the dealer to have it documented. Have them decide what they are going to do before going there, and then wait to schedule it so that you get a loaner. In the mean time, add a quart of oil yourself and drive the car there to avoid the hassle of a tow truck.
      1. Took Picture immediately when I noticed error
      2. Emailed dealership a picture that day to the service advisor
      3. Scheduled a Tow Truck ride to dealership 90 miles away.
      4. Dealer agreed to immediately work me in.

      So no troubles or resistance what so ever. Pretty much, if and/or when the low oil light returns, I'll send photo to dealer again. Pretty sure if it happens, I'm getting new piston rings. Dealer isn't going to waste my time going back and forth. Especially since they've done all services so there's no question of who has done what and when. I've got a paper trail of warranty work and services exclusively at this dealer.

    16. #49
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      When you brought it to the dealer did they change the oil, or add? After which, did it read at the correct level?

    17. #50
      Quote Originally Posted by adamdrives View Post
      When you brought it to the dealer did they change the oil, or add? After which, did it read at the correct level?
      From my understanding:

      1. Read Codes and saw Thermostat Error but not traceable code. Tech what is the Technical Journal?
      2. Replaced Breather Box. Said it was blocked and dirty
      3. I was told they planned to add oil. Unfortunately, they were swamped and I didn't get printout of what all was done or course of action they took. Only that it now reads full. Don't think they drained and measured. I believe they took the low oil light at face value, topped oil, changed breather, and are waiting to see if low oil returns.

    18. #51
      Junior Member meade18's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      1. Took Picture immediately when I noticed error
      2. Emailed dealership a picture that day to the service advisor
      3. Scheduled a Tow Truck ride to dealership 90 miles away.
      4. Dealer agreed to immediately work me in.

      So no troubles or resistance what so ever. Pretty much, if and/or when the low oil light returns, I'll send photo to dealer again. Pretty sure if it happens, I'm getting new piston rings. Dealer isn't going to waste my time going back and forth. Especially since they've done all services so there's no question of who has done what and when. I've got a paper trail of warranty work and services exclusively at this dealer.
      I'm not talking about resistance from Volvo. I'm talking about your own convenience. Next time, you don't have to have it towed immediately, or at all. There is nothing so wrong with your car that it can't be driven. As long as they don't need to see the oil level themselves with VIDA, you can document it, add oil, and keep driving. And instead of having to wait on it, you can plan ahead and get a loaner. And you won't have to ride in a tow truck for almost 2 hours.
      2015.5 Volvo V60 Premier T5 (2.0T Drive-E) FWD (with a new engine)

    19. #52


      Note how quickly this reading can change. This occurred in one day, 55 kms / 34 miles, one day.


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    20. #53
      I thought I would share my experience with the photos I just posted.
      Same engine as the S60 but a 2015 S80 T5 Drive-e. (engine serial # is in the range of the bulletin) At about 60,000 Km( 37K mi) I began to experience the dreaded Clicking and loss of power (on ramps and highway passing). I finally was able to demonstrate it on a drive with the Service Manager and the process began. Note, all work and diagnostic efforts and loaners were covered by CPO. Over the next year and a half with multiple visits the following actions were taken. The Plugs were replaced. Fuel Pressure sensor and hoses replaced. Adaptive transmission settings reset. Nothing would resolve the clicking and loss of power though I would note that it was less common in the winter. Temperature or fuel blend?
      Fast forward a year and a half (summer 2019) at approx 90,000 Km. About 1,500 km after an oil change I decided to check the electronic dipstick. Shocked, it showed it was not full, no bars with the Low message. No other alerts on dash. I went straight to the dealer. They measured with VIDA, topped it off and told me to come back in 1000 KM. At that time they measured 4.6L which is a loss of 1.3 L to the 5.9 L spec. Short fill at oil change or was it eating oil? At that point I asked the Service Manager what else we could do on investigating the clicking and loss of power. He said he would consult with Volvo HO. A month later I was invited to go for a drive with a Field Technical Rep.
      The day before the appointment I checked the oil level. As per my photos it was showing down 1 bar. Went about my day and checked the oil level later again that night. 0 Bars with the low message. How quickly it changes! 55 Km later. No other dash alerts. The next morning I went to the dealer to meet the Field Technical Rep. We went for a short drive. I demonstrated the clicking and loss of power, twice. He was poker faced and wouldnít say much. When we returned to the dealership I told the service manager that the electronic dipstick showed low again. The rep and service manager spoke privately and the rep left. They took the car in and checked the oil level with VIDA and topped it off again. They measured 4.7 L which is a loss of 1.2 L in approx 1,000 km. They said they would call me within a couple of days.
      2 Days later I received a call asking me to bring the car in. This time it was to replace the pistons and rings. Repair took about a week to complete.
      Since the repair the car has been trouble free. No oil loss according to the electronic dipstick. The dreaded Clicking and Loss of power has not reappeared. Was it related to the rings and oil loss? I have my suspicions but nobody said it was.
      All I know is that the Oil Loss issue happened quickly. Check the electronic dipstick frequently and get to the dealer if you see any issues.

    21. #54
      Quote Originally Posted by meade18 View Post
      I'm not talking about resistance from Volvo. I'm talking about your own convenience. Next time, you don't have to have it towed immediately, or at all. There is nothing so wrong with your car that it can't be driven. As long as they don't need to see the oil level themselves with VIDA, you can document it, add oil, and keep driving. And instead of having to wait on it, you can plan ahead and get a loaner. And you won't have to ride in a tow truck for almost 2 hours.
      The reason I insisted on immediately as I didn't know how long the low oil had been going on. Short of holding ignition in 10 seconds, nothing appeared on console. I'm good with getting piston rings if needed, but by no means why to score the cylinder walls or brick the engine. I prefer the original engine stay with the vehicle!

      If it happens again, I'll see what dealer wants me to do. Honestly, being towed saved me from adding miles on my car, so no real complaint. I'm trying to stretch out the remaining 27,000 miles to hit as close to the CPO life as possible anyway. So 90 miles of unnecessary driving is 90 less I have to put on the car.

    22. #55
      Quote Originally Posted by BaxtermannCA View Post
      I thought I would share my experience with the photos I just posted.
      Same engine as the S60 but a 2015 S80 T5 Drive-e. (engine serial # is in the range of the bulletin) At about 60,000 Km( 37K mi) I began to experience the dreaded Clicking and loss of power (on ramps and highway passing). I finally was able to demonstrate it on a drive with the Service Manager and the process began. Note, all work and diagnostic efforts and loaners were covered by CPO. Over the next year and a half with multiple visits the following actions were taken. The Plugs were replaced. Fuel Pressure sensor and hoses replaced. Adaptive transmission settings reset. Nothing would resolve the clicking and loss of power though I would note that it was less common in the winter. Temperature or fuel blend?
      Fast forward a year and a half (summer 2019) at approx 90,000 Km. About 1,500 km after an oil change I decided to check the electronic dipstick. Shocked, it showed it was not full, no bars with the Low message. No other alerts on dash. I went straight to the dealer. They measured with VIDA, topped it off and told me to come back in 1000 KM. At that time they measured 4.6L which is a loss of 1.3 L to the 5.9 L spec. Short fill at oil change or was it eating oil? At that point I asked the Service Manager what else we could do on investigating the clicking and loss of power. He said he would consult with Volvo HO. A month later I was invited to go for a drive with a Field Technical Rep.
      The day before the appointment I checked the oil level. As per my photos it was showing down 1 bar. Went about my day and checked the oil level later again that night. 0 Bars with the low message. How quickly it changes! 55 Km later. No other dash alerts. The next morning I went to the dealer to meet the Field Technical Rep. We went for a short drive. I demonstrated the clicking and loss of power, twice. He was poker faced and wouldnít say much. When we returned to the dealership I told the service manager that the electronic dipstick showed low again. The rep and service manager spoke privately and the rep left. They took the car in and checked the oil level with VIDA and topped it off again. They measured 4.7 L which is a loss of 1.2 L in approx 1,000 km. They said they would call me within a couple of days.
      2 Days later I received a call asking me to bring the car in. This time it was to replace the pistons and rings. Repair took about a week to complete.
      Since the repair the car has been trouble free. No oil loss according to the electronic dipstick. The dreaded Clicking and Loss of power has not reappeared. Was it related to the rings and oil loss? I have my suspicions but nobody said it was.
      All I know is that the Oil Loss issue happened quickly. Check the electronic dipstick frequently and get to the dealer if you see any issues.
      Thanks for sharing your story! My car showed exact same thing, as my pictures detailed. Low Oil and no bars. I'm driving around to see and checking it. I do hope message returns. I want new rings. I really can't afford to dump $3-$4k into the car down the road if the rings decide to give out. So now (under CPO) is better than later!

    23. #56
      Senior Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by BaxtermannCA View Post


      Note how quickly this reading can change. This occurred in one day, 55 kms / 34 miles, one day.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      That's a lot of oil consumption!
      Past: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60R M, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD, '05 V70R GT
      Present: '95 854 T-5R, '06 XC70, '15 XC70 T6, '15.5 XC60 T6, '16 V60 P*

    24. #57
      Quote Originally Posted by Wayne T5 View Post
      That's a lot of oil consumption!
      I don't know if the gauge is accurate. I think what it does is if low it just shows no oil. I could be wrong here, and would like to hope "Low" doesn't mean our car has very little to no oil left. My gauge showed same as his when the low oil message appeared. Prior to that, I wasn't checking to see so I don't know if the bar ever dropped.

    25. #58
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      The gauge is not linear.

    26. #59
      Junior Member meade18's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      The gauge is not linear.
      ^This

      Also, for those wondering, there is nothing in between one notch low, and all notches low (the two pictures that Baxtermann posted). It's more accurately described as an oil level indicator than a gauge.
      2015.5 Volvo V60 Premier T5 (2.0T Drive-E) FWD (with a new engine)

    27. #60
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      would like to hope "Low" doesn't mean our car has very little to no oil left.
      My assumption is that the system is calibrated to provide the "Low" message long before you reach a dangerously-low level, just like the calibrated markings on an old-school dipstick.

    28. #61
      Junior Member meade18's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Dyno View Post
      My assumption is that the system is calibrated to provide the "Low" message long before you reach a dangerously-low level, just like the calibrated markings on an old-school dipstick.
      You're correct. Early on during my consumption saga (before I knew that you could see the exact oil level with a cheap bluetooth obd adapter and free android app), I wasn't sure if I trusted the electronic dipstick, so I did an oil change when it gave me the low oil warning. It was a little over a quart low. Every other time I got the low oil message, the indicator would change to full after adding about a quart.
      2015.5 Volvo V60 Premier T5 (2.0T Drive-E) FWD (with a new engine)

    29. #62
      Quote Originally Posted by meade18 View Post
      You're correct. Early on during my consumption saga (before I knew that you could see the exact oil level with a cheap bluetooth obd adapter and free android app), I wasn't sure if I trusted the electronic dipstick, so I did an oil change when it gave me the low oil warning. It was a little over a quart low. Every other time I got the low oil message, the indicator would change to full after adding about a quart.
      How many miles did it take you to burn a quart? Adding a quart is what my dealer old me, too. Right now I show "OK" but only at 290 miles out of the prerequisite 2000 needed to return.

    30. #63
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      Quote Originally Posted by Venth View Post
      Your engine is built with a very specific RPM tolerance (aka Red-line) when it comes to longevity and warranty. You're welcome to keep your revs lower for NVH but please don't conflate the two things.

      The only exception I'm aware of with this rule is for cold engines. Even then, most brands are starting to adopt a temp-based rev limiter.
      The S60 T5 (sports car is not) does have a nice growl at high RPM ! But please don't make me start looking at Corvettes, Mustangs and the like. For what it's worth the S60 T5 is quick and I do get on her and agree that babying a turbo goes against its nature.

      Sports cars are cool, have always been more of Mustang fan though. Enjoy the motoring and as always, drive more, worry less.
      2012 S60 T5 FWD & 2013 XC90 AWD

    31. #64
      Quote Originally Posted by leftoverture View Post
      See....this is why not having a physical dipstick is a bad idea. I would have the car towed because....if it is truly that low you could harm the engine driving it....and if it is truly full....adding too much more oil could blow a seal. I would call the dealer first....hopefully they will cover the towing cost.
      Even my 2005 Boxster has an oil level sensor (no physical dipstick) and Iíve never had an issue with digital readings. Theyíre accurate and although our 2010 XC90 has a physical dipstick, itís digital sensor provides advance warning while running when the oil level is low. Every time itís reading warns (yellow) I check the dipstick to find it nearing the minimum mark.

      What OP may also want to ask is whether his tech recalibrated the gauge after the oil change. Itís possible that upon fill with the prescribed amount, the gauge wasnít calibrated or compared to their toolís reading. It would also be helpful for him to know how much oil is represented between the Max and Min lines on his reading to know how much may have been passed/consumed if it was filled to max. Itís not uncommon for a measured fill may not completely top off to the max line also, depending on length of time draining or other factors. Iíve sometimes have to fill my 2010ís oil well beyond the prescribed 7.5L, often itís less at 7L sometimes itís more. A couple of times it was as much as 8L! Rarely on the Boxster, perhaps itís that sketchy digital dipstick

      Based on his success rate at coaching others on the forum, Iím confident OP will get to the bottom of it. Heís quite well versed at how to approach his service department and escalate with management at the dealership, followed by Volvo Cars US should he not be satisfied
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    32. #65
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      I can confirm aggressive driving likely doesn't have any effect on oil consumption. Though it's strange that changing the piston and rings didn't help our XC60 3.2L. They ended up replacing the engine. Which reminds me, the engine has about as many miles as the original, so I need to go eyeball the dipstick.
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      2011 XC60 3.2L Barents Blue/Anthracite/Aluminum - rings/pistons at 35k, new engine at 50k, seems no oil loss yet at 100k.

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    34. #67
      Junior Member meade18's Avatar
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      632
      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      How many miles did it take you to burn a quart? Adding a quart is what my dealer old me, too. Right now I show "OK" but only at 290 miles out of the prerequisite 2000 needed to return.
      I got the "low oil add 1 quart" message about every 200 miles during the bulk of my oil consumption (broken piston) saga.
      2015.5 Volvo V60 Premier T5 (2.0T Drive-E) FWD (with a new engine)

    35. #68
      Quote Originally Posted by VolvoUhu View Post
      Even my 2005 Boxster has an oil level sensor (no physical dipstick) and Iíve never had an issue with digital readings. Theyíre accurate and although our 2010 XC90 has a physical dipstick, itís digital sensor provides advance warning while running when the oil level is low. Every time itís reading warns (yellow) I check the dipstick to find it nearing the minimum mark.

      What OP may also want to ask is whether his tech recalibrated the gauge after the oil change. Itís possible that upon fill with the prescribed amount, the gauge wasnít calibrated or compared to their toolís reading. It would also be helpful for him to know how much oil is represented between the Max and Min lines on his reading to know how much may have been passed/consumed if it was filled to max. Itís not uncommon for a measured fill may not completely top off to the max line also, depending on length of time draining or other factors. Iíve sometimes have to fill my 2010ís oil well beyond the prescribed 7.5L, often itís less at 7L sometimes itís more. A couple of times it was as much as 8L! Rarely on the Boxster, perhaps itís that sketchy digital dipstick

      Based on his success rate at coaching others on the forum, Iím confident OP will get to the bottom of it. Heís quite well versed at how to approach his service department and escalate with management at the dealership, followed by Volvo Cars US should he not be satisfied
      Yep. Working with dealer first, since I've gotten no resistance what so ever. I'm pretty certain they'll advocate for me at the moment. Hoping there's no need to escalate, especially since my CPO is still in place. Just wanting it to be the piston rings NOW versus LATER. As Post 100K, I don't want to get saddled with a $3-$4k engine job. At least to my credit, the issue is now documented while still under warranty. If there's even the faintest of concerns I'll press for piston rings to get replaced.

    36. #69
      Quote Originally Posted by swedewrench View Post
      Tj30268
      Thanks.

    37. #70
      Quote Originally Posted by meade18 View Post
      I got the "low oil add 1 quart" message about every 200 miles during the bulk of my oil consumption (broken piston) saga.
      Yikes. At the moment, my problem is definitely not that pronounced. But we all know what happens when pistons get scored, and in your case, the piston breaks. How does the new engine run? Was the replaced engine new or rebuilt? If rebuilt, any ideas of the mileage it had at the time of rebuild?

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