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    1. #71
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Yeah they are likely just saying the breather box was gunked up. Taking it off, they may have noticed some build up underneath. Or maybe they were curious so the took it apart to see. If it's that "gunked up", the rings probably are too.

      They had a car with an oil consumption concern. It doesn't have any external leak so they followed the applicable TJ to replace the breather box.
      I received the work order in the mail today. Here is what it stated:

      CUST STATES CHECKED THE ENGINE OIL LEVEL & FOUND INDICATOR STATED LOW. PLEASE CHECK & ADVISE.

      Installed 32140004-6 (FP} :OIL TRAP
      Installed 8889953 : EDGEPROVOW20
      PER RTJ 30087 REPLACED HE FAULTY OIL TRAP, TOPPED OIL LEVEL, NO S/W UPGRADE AVAILABLE AT THIS TIME.

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    3. #72
      Junior Member meade18's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      Yikes. At the moment, my problem is definitely not that pronounced. But we all know what happens when pistons get scored, and in your case, the piston breaks. How does the new engine run? Was the replaced engine new or rebuilt? If rebuilt, any ideas of the mileage it had at the time of rebuild?
      I think I remember someone on here saying that engines used in warranty replacements aren't brand spanking new. It looked new to me and the serial number was much higher than my original engine. It runs great. I'm doing 5,000 mile oil change intervals with Liqui Moly Volvo VCC RBS0-2AE oil. I've put on 14,000 miles since the replacement.
      2015.5 Volvo V60 Premier T5 (2.0T Drive-E) FWD (with a new engine)

    4. #73
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      The engines are reconditioned. For all intents and purposes, there is no difference.

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    6. #74
      Quote Originally Posted by meade18 View Post
      I think I remember someone on here saying that engines used in warranty replacements aren't brand spanking new. It looked new to me and the serial number was much higher than my original engine. It runs great. I'm doing 5,000 mile oil change intervals with Liqui Moly Volvo VCC RBS0-2AE oil. I've put on 14,000 miles since the replacement.
      So pretty much babying the new engine! FYI: I posted the service notes. Received the work order in the mail today, as dealer was too swamped to generate stuff at the time of service. They already crammed me in to a very filled schedule. Standard protocol I guess on their end.


      CUST STATES CHECKED THE ENGINE OIL LEVEL & FOUND INDICATOR STATED LOW. PLEASE CHECK & ADVISE.

      Installed 32140004-6 (FP} :OIL TRAP
      Installed 8889953 : EDGEPROVOW20
      PER RTJ 30087 REPLACED HE FAULTY OIL TRAP, TOPPED OIL LEVEL, NO S/W UPGRADE AVAILABLE AT THIS TIME.

    7. #75
      Junior Member meade18's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      The engines are reconditioned. For all intents and purposes, there is no difference.
      Does Volvo get them out of wrecked cars and then recondition them themselves?
      2015.5 Volvo V60 Premier T5 (2.0T Drive-E) FWD (with a new engine)

    8. #76
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      Quote Originally Posted by meade18 View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      The engines are reconditioned. For all intents and purposes, there is no difference.
      Does Volvo get them out of wrecked cars and then recondition them themselves?
      Not that I know of. They charge a core charge so the engines that are replaced are returned to be reconditioned. Obviously there needs to be an initial amount of new ones sent out but after that they are reconditioned.

    9. #77
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      The engines are reconditioned. For all intents and purposes, there is no difference.
      The good thing about "new" or reconditioned engines is that they'll typically have all of the latest updates already applied as part of the reconditioning. I'd had the boxer engine in my Boxster replaced at 16k mi and even reconditioned it came with all of the latest RMS and bearing updates the latest models had. 60k later it's still great!
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    10. #78
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Not that I know of. They charge a core charge so the engines that are replaced are returned to be reconditioned. Obviously there needs to be an initial amount of new ones sent out but after that they are reconditioned.
      So if I interpret your statement accurately, the first batch of cars with faulty piston rings got brand new engines, until there was enough supply of rebuilt engines to furnish additional customers. Correct?

    11. #79
      Quote Originally Posted by VolvoUhu View Post
      The good thing about "new" or reconditioned engines is that they'll typically have all of the latest updates already applied as part of the reconditioning. I'd had the boxer engine in my Boxster replaced at 16k mi and even reconditioned it came with all of the latest RMS and bearing updates the latest models had. 60k later it's still great!
      I'm hoping it's my rings as I said before. I wouldn't complain one bit about having the piston rings replaced now rather than later! Just like your boxster, better a problem is found early on at company expense, than later on your dime!

    12. #80
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Not that I know of. They charge a core charge so the engines that are replaced are returned to be reconditioned. Obviously there needs to be an initial amount of new ones sent out but after that they are reconditioned.
      So if I interpret your statement accurately, the first batch of cars with faulty piston rings got brand new engines, until there was enough supply of rebuilt engines to furnish additional customers. Correct?
      Possibly. It really makes no difference at all though.

    13. #81
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Possibly. It really makes no difference at all though.
      You're correct. Was merely an observational comment. At this juncture, I am sure any and all engines are rebuilt to Volvo Spec with new piston rings. I don't want a new engine but I want new rings!

      Come on Mr. Volvo....Show me that low oil light again!

    14. #82
      Just an update. So I've gone 1,764 miles and it appears the Digital DipStick has dropped a quart. Still says OK but there's clearly a consumption problem taking place. I have a Service Visit scheduled for Monday on the issue. So timely that it showed up today. It's very clear Piston Rings are in my future. It took me about 2500 miles before I saw the "Low". Already had the pcv / breather box replaced. So know for certain that isn't the cause. Oil was also topped off as well.

      How long does the job generally take?


      foto_no_exif2.jpg

      foto_no_exif.jpg
      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 09-10-2020 at 09:01 PM.

    15. #83
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      How long it takes can vary. If I'm left alone to work all day, I can probably do the job on that car in about 7 or 8 hours I'd guess. Shop workload usually makes it impossible for me to be left alone so I've never had the chance to just do one start to finish.

    16. #84
      Quote Originally Posted by BaxtermannCA View Post
      I thought I would share my experience with the photos I just posted.
      Same engine as the S60 but a 2015 S80 T5 Drive-e. (engine serial # is in the range of the bulletin) At about 60,000 Km( 37K mi) I began to experience the dreaded Clicking and loss of power (on ramps and highway passing). I finally was able to demonstrate it on a drive with the Service Manager and the process began. Note, all work and diagnostic efforts and loaners were covered by CPO. Over the next year and a half with multiple visits the following actions were taken. The Plugs were replaced. Fuel Pressure sensor and hoses replaced. Adaptive transmission settings reset. Nothing would resolve the clicking and loss of power though I would note that it was less common in the winter. Temperature or fuel blend?
      Fast forward a year and a half (summer 2019) at approx 90,000 Km. About 1,500 km after an oil change I decided to check the electronic dipstick. Shocked, it showed it was not full, no bars with the Low message. No other alerts on dash. I went straight to the dealer. They measured with VIDA, topped it off and told me to come back in 1000 KM. At that time they measured 4.6L which is a loss of 1.3 L to the 5.9 L spec. Short fill at oil change or was it eating oil? At that point I asked the Service Manager what else we could do on investigating the clicking and loss of power. He said he would consult with Volvo HO. A month later I was invited to go for a drive with a Field Technical Rep.
      The day before the appointment I checked the oil level. As per my photos it was showing down 1 bar. Went about my day and checked the oil level later again that night. 0 Bars with the low message. How quickly it changes! 55 Km later. No other dash alerts. The next morning I went to the dealer to meet the Field Technical Rep. We went for a short drive. I demonstrated the clicking and loss of power, twice. He was poker faced and wouldn’t say much. When we returned to the dealership I told the service manager that the electronic dipstick showed low again. The rep and service manager spoke privately and the rep left. They took the car in and checked the oil level with VIDA and topped it off again. They measured 4.7 L which is a loss of 1.2 L in approx 1,000 km. They said they would call me within a couple of days.
      2 Days later I received a call asking me to bring the car in. This time it was to replace the pistons and rings. Repair took about a week to complete.
      Since the repair the car has been trouble free. No oil loss according to the electronic dipstick. The dreaded Clicking and Loss of power has not reappeared. Was it related to the rings and oil loss? I have my suspicions but nobody said it was.
      All I know is that the Oil Loss issue happened quickly. Check the electronic dipstick frequently and get to the dealer if you see any issues.
      I'm heading towards that direction myself. Expect it to hit "Low" here soon. Already down a notch in 1700 miles. Notified dealer today.

    17. #85
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      How long it takes can vary. If I'm left alone to work all day, I can probably do the job on that car in about 7 or 8 hours I'd guess. Shop workload usually makes it impossible for me to be left alone so I've never had the chance to just do one start to finish.
      Thanks. Most people get upset when a major failure occurs on their vehicle, but I am delighted and bordering on ecstatic. This issue is one that I didn't want to experience Post 100K. Rather on Volvo's dime than mine, especially since I'm looking at houses and looking at moving. Having to set aside a few thousand wasn't really on the agenda.

      Presuming dealer moves forward with ring job:

      1. Would it be OK to ask dealer replace the timing belt if I buy the part? Especially with the car already going to be torn down. I mean the car is at 74,000 miles. Seems I could spend $200 on a kit, and get another 150k out of engine, or be on the hook for $1200-1500 in another 75K. Makes sense to do it now if the engine is torn down.

      2. Is this the right Technical Journal on the Thermostat Code that I referenced? https://www.tsbsearch.com/Volvo/TJ-30268

    18. #86
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      Some people don't like it because they don't trust the job to be done right. We've got guys I wouldn't want doing rings on my engine.

      I always suggest the timing belt when doing that job. Haven't had a customer decline it. Can't pass up a no labor charge timing belt job.

      And yes, that is the TJ for the thermostat.

    19. #87
      Member Veefifty T5AWD's Avatar
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      My brother in law's S60 recently had rings replaced and the dealer had the car for a week. Not sure why they needed it for so long, but just a heads up.
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    20. #88
      Senior Member Wayne T5's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      I'm heading towards that direction myself. Expect it to hit "Low" here soon. Already down a notch in 1700 miles. Notified dealer today.
      Isn't that within "acceptable" tolerances for most manufacturers, Volvo included?
      Past: '94 854, '99 S70 T5 SE, '99 S70 GLT, '04 S60R M, '12 S60 T5, '13 S60 T5, '15 S60 RD, '05 V70R GT
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    21. #89
      Quote Originally Posted by Wayne T5 View Post
      Isn't that within "acceptable" tolerances for most manufacturers, Volvo included?
      I was at the dealer last month for a "Low Oil" message after 2500, where TJ protocol was followed, and the breather box replaced. The oil was also topped off and refilled to full. So now that I've gone 1760 miles, it's apparent the car is still burning oil. I received no resistance on the breather box, which was supposedly all gunked up. Hopefully, the dealer agrees the problem is persistent and does the piston rings. I'm surely going to push for it to be done, as they need to keep my car to do several things at once (Door Latch Recall, Check Consumption Issue etc). And I don't really feel like having to trek up for a 180 mile roundtrip in 1000 miles to say "Told You So". As if I'm down a notch in 1760 miles, it's quite apparent I'm headed towards Low and the breather box didn't resolve.

      In the 4.5 years I've owned the car, I have never seen the gauge move in between the 10,000 mile oil changes. Not until recently where I experienced the low oil light.

      The car is under the old 7r / 100k CPO until June 2022 or ~25,000 miles. So we're not dealing with one of those newly rewritten VIP Plans or other warranties where this is "normal".
      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 09-11-2020 at 09:35 AM.

    22. #90
      Quote Originally Posted by Veefifty T5AWD View Post
      My brother in law's S60 recently had rings replaced and the dealer had the car for a week. Not sure why they needed it for so long, but just a heads up.
      Hah, that's what I'm hoping for. I've got 25,000 miles and/or June 2022 until my CPO expires. I want to take a nice drive somewhere, but am trying to spare my car excessive usage as I am already plowing on the miles for other things. Including excessive usage elsewhere. So if they keep my car a week, I've got their loaner to go do something in!

      Silver lining...

    23. #91
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Some people don't like it because they don't trust the job to be done right. We've got guys I wouldn't want doing rings on my engine.

      I always suggest the timing belt when doing that job. Haven't had a customer decline it. Can't pass up a no labor charge timing belt job.

      And yes, that is the TJ for the thermostat.
      I've had good experiences with this dealer, so I trust them to do things right. If there's an issue, I've got the CPO to cover any problems. Knock on wood there wouldn't be. Plus, this saves a potential $3,000-$4,000 if the dealer agrees with me and does rings on Monday. As once the rings are replaced, I don't have to worry about the "What If's" down the road on my vehicle. Peace of mind!

      Thanks. Stampermann also recommended doing the timing belt and glad you concur. Better now at $200 in parts than a $1200 job later. That $200 buys me an extra 75,000 miles so can't beat the savings.

      What about the Serpentine Belt? Stampermann sent me a message he recommends that be done too. To quote him: "I probably would have them do the serpentine belt kit too. Not because it's worn or I'm concerned about the belt, but because of all the posts I see where the tensioner goes bad, shreads the serpentine belt and then that eats the timing belt."

      Do you agree?
      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 09-11-2020 at 09:43 AM.

    24. #92
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      I agree with doing the serpentine belt during the timing belt, that's pretty standard. But the shredded belts he's referring to are likely 5 cylinder ones. Haven't seen a 2.0L tensioner fail yet. But for peace of mind, it would be worth it to do.

    25. #93
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      I agree with doing the serpentine belt during the timing belt, that's pretty standard. But the shredded belts he's referring to are likely 5 cylinder ones. Haven't seen a 2.0L tensioner fail yet. But for peace of mind, it would be worth it to do.
      Thanks. Presuming the dealer concurs Monday, I'll have the timing belt kit and serpentine belts done together.

      My Car sits at 74,150. So doing timing belt brings me out to around 225k for $200. Awesome deal. What about serpentine belt? I can't find the maintenance interval in the manual on when these get replaced on a 2015.5 Drive-E S60. Just curious.

      Also, I presume with the timing belt, I also request the waterpump be replaced, too. Correct?
      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 09-11-2020 at 11:26 AM.

    26. #94
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      Its done at 150k with the timing belt.

      While I haven't seen one fail, I'd probably do the tensioner at the same time as well.

    27. #95
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      Its done at 150k with the timing belt.

      While I haven't seen one fail, I'd probably do the tensioner at the same time as well.
      So let me get full list.

      1. Timing Belt + Pulleys - Should I also ask for Water Pump? Or is this included in the Timing Belt Kit and Replacement?

      2. Serpetine Belt with Tensioners

      Anything else you might recommend?

    28. #96
      Junior Member meade18's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      Just an update. So I've gone 1,764 miles and it appears the Digital DipStick has dropped a quart. Still says OK but there's clearly a consumption problem taking place. I have a Service Visit scheduled for Monday on the issue. So timely that it showed up today. It's very clear Piston Rings are in my future. It took me about 2500 miles before I saw the "Low". Already had the pcv / breather box replaced. So know for certain that isn't the cause. Oil was also topped off as well.

      How long does the job generally take?


      foto_no_exif2.jpg

      foto_no_exif.jpg
      I don't think you meant to say this specifically, so I'm not calling you out. But I do want to clarify for all the other people that will read this thread and may not know. Your oil level meter in that picture is NOT necessarily indicating that your car is down a full quart. When it gets to the red below "min," that is when you are down a quart. And I specifically say "NOT necessarily" because there are no other levels that will show on that meter in between the one in this picture (down one notch below max) and when the meter is completely empty showing below "min." When you see this one notch down level, you could be close to being one quart low, or you might be closer to half a quart. If you want a real reading, you need to check the oil level in millimeters in VIDA or using a OBD2 tool with the Car Scanner ELM OBD2 app. No one has posted the exact mm measurements that trigger the different levels in the dash meter, so until someone does that, we are sadly left to speculate on how low our cars actually are when they are showing this indication.

      @MyVolvoS60, did you buy one of these yet so you could better document your consumption amounts? https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluet...dp/B011NSX27A/
      Last edited by meade18; 09-12-2020 at 12:14 AM.
      2015.5 Volvo V60 Premier T5 (2.0T Drive-E) FWD (with a new engine)

    29. #97
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      The water pump is not belt driven.

    30. #98
      Quote Originally Posted by meade18 View Post
      I don't think you meant to say this specifically, so I'm not calling you out. But I do want to clarify for all the other people that will read this thread and may not know. Your oil level meter in that picture is NOT necessarily indicating that your car is down a full quart. When it gets to the red below "min," that is when you are down a quart. And I specifically say "NOT necessarily" because there are no other levels that will show on that meter in between the one in this picture (down one notch below max) and when the meter is completely empty showing below "min." When you see this one notch down level, you could be close to being one quart low, or you might be closer to half a quart. If you want a real reading, you need to check the oil level in millimeters in VIDA or using a OBD2 tool with the Car Scanner ELM OBD2 app. No one has posted the exact mm measurements that trigger the different levels in the dash meter, so until someone does that, we are sadly left to speculate on how low our cars actually are when they are showing this indication.

      @MyVolvoS60, did you buy one of these yet so you could better document your consumption amounts? https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluet...dp/B011NSX27A/
      You are correct, I could be down an indeterminate amount of oil, because the electronic dipstick is generic. The point remains that my car is clearly consuming oil still after having the pcv / breather box replaced. I never noticed my car consuming oil or the electronic dipstick moving in between my 10-60K visits.

      I have not ordered that obd2 scanner. I figured that if the issue returns, I'm going to point out the fact that the technical journal has been followed, and the problem persists. An issue I'll raise on Monday when I go in for the door lock recall (I postponed it on my last visit), check the consumption issue, etc.

      I mean the dealer is looking at a $2,000+ warranty claim. Plus, I believe the dealer gets compensated for a loaner due to a warranty claim, too. On top of that, I am going to remind them I drive 180 mile roundtrip to get here and I really don't want to come back up in a month or two to have this same issue addressed later. Especially when they are already going to keep my car a few days and send me home. In addition, this dealer has serviced my vehicle from 10-70K, done a complete brake job + rotors, and almost every single warranty related issue sans 1 or 2.

      So I have been one of those customers who has lined their pockets with loyalty. My hope is they say 'Let's Just Fix it Now". You've got proof we can submit to Volvo the claim is legitimate and not beat around the bush until the "Low Oil" light comes back.

      The absolute last thing I want is to end up like some guys here who have trashed their engines. I'd rather be proactive than reactive, especially as I am at 74,200 miles now. Meaning my CPO terms in 25,800 miles and/or June 2022. Probably the first more than the latter.
      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 09-12-2020 at 12:45 PM.

    31. #99
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      The water pump is not belt driven.
      Ok thanks.

    32. #100
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      Quote Originally Posted by MyVolvoS60 View Post
      You are correct, I could be down an indeterminate amount of oil, because the electronic dipstick is generic. The point remains that my car is clearly consuming oil still after having the pcv / breather box replaced. I never noticed my car consuming oil or the electronic dipstick moving in between my 10-60K visits.

      I have not ordered that obd2 scanner. I figured that if the issue returns, I'm going to point out the fact that the technical journal has been followed, and the problem persists. An issue I'll raise on Monday when I go in for the door lock recall (I postponed it on my last visit), check the consumption issue, etc.

      I mean the dealer is looking at a $2,000+ warranty claim. Plus, I believe the dealer gets compensated for a loaner due to a warranty claim, too. On top of that, I am going to remind them I drive 180 mile roundtrip to get here and I really don't want to come back up in a month or two to have this same issue addressed later. Especially when they are already going to keep my car a few days and send me home. In addition, this dealer has serviced my vehicle from 10-70K, done a complete brake job + rotors, and almost every single warranty related issue sans 1 or 2.

      So I have been one of those customers who has lined their pockets with loyalty. My hope is they say 'Let's Just Fix it Now". You've got proof we can submit to Volvo the claim is legitimate and not beat around the bush until the "Low Oil" light comes back.

      The absolute last thing I want is to end up like some guys here who have trashed their engines. I'd rather be proactive than reactive, especially as I am at 74,200 miles now. Meaning my CPO terms in 25,800 miles and/or June 2022. Probably the first more than the latter.
      Did you avoid driving the car hard in the past month? Your dealer pretty much has their hands tied and just submits your notes directly to Volvo for warranty approval. Volvo may tell them to inspect your short block or keep driving.

      Something worth clearing up, your dealer keeps most of the profit from servicing your car aside from paying for wholesale parts. Volvo uses dealership records as evidence of service but is mainly banking on their warranty reputation to sell new cars.
      2017 V60 P*

    33. #101
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      This repair is not on prior approval. We don't have to submit anything prior to repair.

    34. #102
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      This repair is not on prior approval. We don't have to submit anything prior to repair.
      Thanks Tech. Then would it be correct to say the dealership can pull the trigger on the ring repair?
      2017 V60 P*

    35. #103
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      Quote Originally Posted by Venth View Post
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      This repair is not on prior approval. We don't have to submit anything prior to repair.
      Thanks Tech. Then would it be correct to say the dealership can pull the trigger on the ring repair?
      If the car fits the TJ for the repair and they are sure the correct amount of oil was in it when it left last time, then yes.

    36. #104
      Quote Originally Posted by Venth View Post
      Did you avoid driving the car hard in the past month? Your dealer pretty much has their hands tied and just submits your notes directly to Volvo for warranty approval. Volvo may tell them to inspect your short block or keep driving.

      I am a mixed driver. Probably 70% Highway (only use cruise on long drives) and 30% city. I'm a bit of a lead foot but I keep things about 9 or 10 above speed limit. When merging onto highway, I'll gun it to get ahead of cars. I do pass to get out from behind slow drivers. So I'm not granny driving my vehicle.

      That being said, the car should not be burning oil after 1800 miles. Dealer topped it off and swapped out pcv / breather box. Vehicle has been dealer serviced since day 1. Originally used 5w30 until TJ said swap over to 0w20. I believe this happened around 30K or 40K. Car is also fed Top Tier Fuel to insure the piston valves are kept clean.

      Quote Originally Posted by Venth View Post
      Something worth clearing up, your dealer keeps most of the profit from servicing your car aside from paying for wholesale parts. Volvo uses dealership records as evidence of service but is mainly banking on their warranty reputation to sell new cars.
      Which is why I mentioned the same dealer has done my 10-70K services, a brake + rotor job, almost every warranty claim sans 1 or 2, and an alignment every 10K. I am loyal to the dealer and they've made plenty of money off me. So my point remains, I hope they will go ahead and approve the piston job, and then submit the request for payment under the CPO. I'm not in the mood to beat around the bush and trek 180 mile round trip to go back in a month or two with a low oil light. I already made Volvo tow it there once when the issue first arose. I am not keen on trashing my engine....
      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 09-13-2020 at 12:05 AM.

    37. #105
      Quote Originally Posted by Tech View Post
      If the car fits the TJ for the repair and they are sure the correct amount of oil was in it when it left last time, then yes.
      Which the dealer most definitely made sure to do after replacing the pcv / breather box. They topped off the oil back to full by adding a quart or there about. Now 1800 miles later, it's clear the consumption problem persists. So I've got to imagine this fits the spec for piston rings. Unless my dealer, whom I am very loyal to, wants to be a dick and make me drive until the oil low light officially comes on a second time. Then I'm going to be a bit grumpy.

      What's a Piston Job normally cost a customer? Guessing around $3k between parts and labor? How much does warranty pay for the 10 Hour Job?
      Last edited by MyVolvoS60; 09-13-2020 at 12:07 AM.

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