Jondevieon's Budget RS Build II
Username
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    Results 1 to 35 of 35
    1. #1
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612

      Jondevieon's Budget RS Build II

      Vehicle $5,500 Upgrade Maintenance Other
      Parts $3,132.08
      Total $8,632
      Running Parts List cost

      RS*Vacuum Line Mod (post #15) x $73.36
      RS*OEM 2.5l ECU Holder x $147.91
      RS*OEM 2.3l Intercooler x $180.00
      2.5" Charge Pipe x $80.00
      RS*OEM 2.3l Intake x $105.00
      RS*OEM 2.3l Muffler x $150.00
      70mm Throttle Body x $59.12
      Turbosmart dual port CBV x $120.00
      Spectre Air filter x $5.00
      Rein upper radiator hose x $50.00
      3" Downpipe x $125.00
      Coolant tank x $18.50



      Sylvania ZEVO 6000k Led DRL's x $20.00
      Morimoto 6000k Hid Kit x $132.00
      LED Interior Conversion x $20.00
      De-badged x $0.00
      Volvo OEM Midir's x $420.00
      Continental Extreme Contact (245/20/18) x $0.00
      Custom Lower Mesh Grill Inserts x $5.00
      Custom Upper Mesh Grill x $5.00
      Fog Lights and module x $48.82
      Morimoto H11B single Bulbe x $14.99
      Volvo 5 Y-Spoke Wheels x $295.00
      Floor Mats x $60.00
      Kill All Wiper Flush Mount Wiper Plug x $28.89




      Moog Inner/outer tie rods(LH/RH) x $75.00
      4pc hubcentric spacers x $80.00
      Upper Rear shock mounts x $25.00
      Lower Control arms x $92.00
      adjustable rear control arms x x $32.73
      Wheel hub bearing s x $102.08
      Moog Quick struts x x $220.84
      Moog Tie rods x $40.84
      4x Century UHP 225/40/18 x $300.00

      Parts Wanted

      Fog light covers
      Original upper grille or mesh one
      visor caps
      320MM calipers




      The Car
      2008 Volvo C30 T5 2.0 AT
      Electric Silver
      114,700
      3rd Owner

      The Story



      Vision
      Build a budget daily driver using OEM Ford and Volvo parts to upgrade while maintaining sleeper look.


      Modifcations:
      Sylvania ZEVO 6000k Led DRL's
      Morimoto 6000k Hid Kit
      LED Interior Conversion
      De-badged
      18x7.5" Volvo 5 y-Spoke
      Custom Lower Mesh Grill Inserts
      Custom Upper Mesh Grill
      Elevate Rear Sway Bar
      Elevate Torque Mount
      RS Vacuum Line Mod (post #15)
      RS OEM 2.5l ECU Holder
      RS OEM 2.3l Intercooler
      2.5" Charge Pipe


      Coming Soon!
      RS OEM 2.3l Intake
      RS OEM 2.3l Muffler
      320MM Brakes
      70mm Throttle Body
      AWD Conversion
      Upgraded K04 Turbo

      Day of Purchase

      IMG_4696.jpgIMG_4699.jpgIMG_4695.jpgIMG_4687.JPGIMG_4697.jpg



      Last edited by jondevieonS40; 08-15-2020 at 01:25 AM.
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    2. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    3. #2
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612
      First modifications

      Added some LED day runners and installed my Morimoto kit, so much better over the dim halogen bulbs
      cena4.jpg
      Swapped out the RSB (rear sway bar) for an elevate one, this makes such a big difference on this car it feels so much tighter in the corners.
      cena5.jpg
      Debagged the rear and deleted the wiper arm
      cena6.jpg
      LED Interior lighting Kit
      cena7.jpg
      RS Vacuum Line Mod
      cena9.jpg

      Last edited by jondevieonS40; 08-15-2020 at 12:17 AM.
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    4. #3
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612

      RS Intercooler Install

      Purpose: To experiment with fitment and use of Ford Focus RS parts installed on 2.5l T5 engine for comprehensive and affordable performance gains.

      Over the last few weeks, I have been obsessing over performance upgrades for our Volvos that could had for cheap. I combed the forum for as much information as possible for the cheapest and best options and collected as much data as possible to make my decision. I also wanted to take the plunge and actually try something new to share with the community that has helped me so much, contribute to the forum and solidify myself as a member.

      **If someone has already installed an RS ic than I missed it and apologize**


      The T5 engine, in my experience, has been easy to work on and modify with the exception for two things, limited options for upgrades and cost. While a P1 car can be purchased for relatively cheap, the performance parts are as expensive as what you would expect for the higher end tuner cars, with the return in horsepower failing in comparison without a larger turbo. That being said I have set out to find the cheapest options for upgrades and still feel a difference. The main areas I focused on was intake, charge pipe and intercooler, as these seem to be the most common upgrades, and I sold the ones I had on my car and still had the tune for them .
      RS Intercooler Install

      Materials Used/Cost
      ēRS Intercooler (P/N G1FY6K775RC)($150)
      ēMounting brackets ($1.78/ea) x2
      ēScrews, washers and nuts (license plate kit)($2.48)
      Total cost: $156.04

      I have owned aftermarket versions of these parts in the past but recently sold them because of some personal circumstances. Things turned around, so I found myself with some extra time and money to experiment with rather than just buy new parts. The intercoolers make a difference in performance, the problem is the price, the Elevate IC has a core size of 22.5x6.5x3 with a tube and fin design (8 rows) for the low price of $700, the charge pipe which is FWD specific, over $200. While the do88 seems like the obvious choice because of the price, it still comes in at a little over $500 with shipping for the set. After sorting through all of my options, I decided to try something that Ė at least to my knowledge - had not been done yet. At first, I looked at universal options for under $100 but that would need fabrication which meant more materials and more cost. With no welder, and the entire purpose of the project to be as cheap and easy as possible, I re-evaluated my options looking for something that would be easy to install and stay under $200.
      The larger IC out of newer S60ís (PN 31338236), cost around $50-150 (core dims 25.8x5.7x2.5), and seems like one of the easiest modifications as it may be available at a local scrap yard and, is a direct swap with one exception. Depending on the model of S60, the Sensor plug may be on the wrong side, which means fabrication, albeit very basic, would still be needed.

      I began looking into other cars that shared our platform. I found someone had fit an ST intercooler as a direct swap on our S40, with the sensor location being on the same side and everything. I started visiting ST/RS forums to see if the RS IC was interchangeable, and I was able to find that it was! So using very delicate country math I surmised that an RS intercooler should fit our Volvos! I began to see what core size we had been experimenting with and found this Ė
      ď7.8" is about the tallest you are going to be able to go and still fit underneath the stock bumper, you could probably make the 24" wide work however 22" is about the perfect size for our air dam so you can just barely see the endtanks.5.8" is pretty thick, 3.5" is what I am using and it fits just right.Ē Ė
      The RS OEM IC for Ford Focus Mk RS 2.3,(P/N G1FY6K775RC), has a Core size of 7.75x24.25x3.25 and eleven (11) fins. The Boys on the ST/RS forums even compared the ST and RS units where ST, (PN 97392VN), has a core size of 26x6.25x2.5, and a Vol% of 406.25 in^3, the RS IC has a vol% of 610.79^3. I am not completely sure what this means, but I like it.

      ST vs RS Intercooler
      IMG_4335[1].jpg
      RS vs OEM Volvo Intercooler
      rsvsvlco.jpg
      INSTALLATION

      The inlets have a 2.75Ē OD, which makes fitting the stock hoses (2.5Ē) difficult but not impossible with some heat and stretching. The RS unit has the IC sensor located on the same side as ours and reaches easily. The There are two mounting holes molded on the front of the intercoolers housing, so I used metal brackets to mount to the front metal support Ė no drilling so far Ė This held the IC in place just fine with no swinging or movement. The bumper fit like a tight bra but with some light trimming off the bottom of the bumper, i was able to nestle it on.

      The installation overall was very easy, if done again I know I could do it without nearly as much trimming but I made mistakes - I did pre maturely cut off two upper mounting brackets from the RS IC, in hindsight I may have been able to leave these on and use for mounting points. The plastic piece under the radiator had a lip that protrudes out, I used a dremel to saw this down but may have been able to leave this on too. In my haste and excitement, I did extra work but hopefully my mistakes will make other experience easier. No issues with sensors as of yet, and overall performance has been awesome.
      The Larger IC is noticeable at WOT and I could feel the car had turbo lag on the first few pulls Ė with stock Volvo charge pipe Ė but after a day or two the car responded much better. The car also produced a much more noticeable turbo sound from my CBV, my first assumption is itís a leak , but maybe just a bi product of the larger intercooler?

      As for temperature, I am still recording data on dash command but after a week of use, I have no problems to report on!

      Next im going to install an RS intake and charge pipe so stay tuned!

      Here are some quick figures from dashcammand

      OEM - 47* ambient
      Run 1
      Mph 25-80
      Temp 59 - 140

      Run 2
      Mph 40-80
      Temp 57-126

      Peak HP estimated = 283

      With RS intercooler - 57* ambient

      Run 1
      Mph 25-80
      Temp 59-95

      Run 2
      Mph 40-80
      Temp 50-68!

      Peak HP estimated = 303!

      Thatís a 20hp gain and my temps not only did not pass 100*, but cooled down much faster as well.

      This is all done with a Bluetooth app so take that info with a grain of salt.

      cena3.jpg
      Last edited by jondevieonS40; 08-15-2020 at 12:29 AM.
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    5. Remove Advertisements
      SwedeSpeed.com
      Advertisements

    6. #4
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612

      Shoes OMG SHOES


      I have a OCD problem, once I have my mind set on something I become so determined that I make it my priority of every waking day. It not the worst OCD case, since it has allowed me to buy and sell things for a profit. Time wise, this is the only time I am able to subside my ADHD.
      Ever since I bought my C30, I have been scouring the earth for a set of Midir wheels. I have owned two sets of Midirs I found on Craigslist, both in perfect condition and each set for around $200. The first set was lost when my car was totaled, the second set (Factory black color, was told by the techs at discount tire would not fit my car, I now know they in fact lied to avoid doing free work, so I sold them (for a profit of course). Since then I have seen sets come and go for a fair price ($500-600), I was so disappointed when I seen a set go for $100, my OCD immediately flared up, and I subconsciously vowed to claim the next set of Midirs I would see, so my search began.
      I already tend to troll every major Buying/Selling app made today, but after all my outlets turned up fruitless, I tried the last place based on recommendation from a coworker
      IMG_4922[1].jpg

      Long story short, these wheels did not work out. After having them balanced and installed, they obviously look great but I have a terrible wheel wobble after 45-50 mph. Had them rebalanced and still no sign of bends or cracks, but the wobble persist. I suspected either the hub bores had been drilled out or the tires were bad, either way my ADHD flared up and i forgot about these and bout another pair

      These are a takeoff set from a 2018 XC60. I first seen them installed on this blue C30, took me a while to figure out what they were but in my research i found a pair that were for sale on eBay. They were from a Volvo dealership in Montana, but before i could make an offer, the seller mounted some off road tires on them and they were sold to another Volvo dealership in Dallas, which i guess they only wanted them for the tires. They listed the wheels for sale using the same stock photos as the last dealership, but at a set price that seemed to good to be true - you know the kind price that you say to your self "that can't be right..."

      IMG_5187[1].jpg

      During this time after messing with the wheels so much, i stripped the factory wheel lock key and the local Volvo dealership couldnít get the master key set to bite. I tried hammering on a 15/16 socket, now itís just spinning freely - essentially giving the security collar a suit of armor.
      I didn't think the socket seated flush with the lock yet, so do I double down and hammer on the socket more so maybe it pinches the collar down, or leave it as is and let a shop deal with it. No tire shops could take it off, BMW might have a specialty tool for removing the collar but cost more than the car. I found a Russian repair manual, you take a 10lb hammer and beat it till stuff falls off. With the ring gone the rest should be easy, but I have to step away before I make things worse. After a few hours i finally got them off!, once you have the rings off it is not so bad. Will be a a size 11/16 or 17mm socket, remember to use the ones with more teeth so you get a better bite the first time. Taking these off felt like being set free, these tires are balding and ive just been waiting for them to go flat. Now everyone gather around and look at my shame, see what the idiot did to his own rims, LOOK AT THEM. I am not proud but i think its important for people to see the imperfections of human nature, not everything can be a perfect Youtube DYI experience.

      IMG_5073[1].jpg

      Last edited by jondevieonS40; 08-15-2020 at 01:11 AM.
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    7. #5
      Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      San Diego, CA
      Posts
      1,016
      Very cool project! Do you have more info on the RS*Vacuum Line Mod?
      2005 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66 (2017 - ) || 1987 Toyota MR2 (2016 - ) || 2002 Lexus IS300 (2016 - ) || 2005 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 (2016 - 2019) || 2008 Volvo V50 T5 (2015 - 2016) || 2001 Acura Integra GSR (2010 - 2010) Stolen lol

    8. #6
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612

      RS Vacuum line mod install

      Finally got around to installing this, it is basically a section of hose that connect from the intake manifold directly to the brake switch, eliminating the squid section of hose. The kit was ordered from our brothers over seas at Anembo (through eBay), and cost about $75. It comes with the hose section, a rubber plug for the intake tube and a extension harness that is suppose to be used for the brake switch relocation.

      The mod is intended for use in the 2.5l ST225 and Volvo engine, which means RHD, so for us yanks the installation is slightly different and easier. The brake switch is located by the vacuum brake servo instead of the brake booster, so no need to use the extension harness here, and no tools required either.

      Install (30 minutes) (no tools required, but gloves and a heat gun would help)

      1. Remove the stock vacuum hose, Two of the connections have tabs that pinch to release. One on the intake manifold with a red ring, push in then pull. And finally one on the vacuum booster, this is held in with a horshoe clip and need to be pushed out with a pin - i just removed the entire vacuum booster.

      2. The plastic on the new tubing is made out of some space grade materials unknown to man - its very strong and getting it malleable enough to fit the 10mm fitting was the hardest part. I burned it, boiled it, beat it, eventually got it wide enough fit over the fitting, and used a small clamp for safe measures. (a hair dryer or heat gun would have made this easier)




      That is literally it, i will have to fashion it to look a little more at home once i install the RS CAI, but overall a looks cleaner than the OEM hose.

      Now, after driving for a while, no codes or weird braking issues, but i do notice that the car runs like the boost is kicking in faster, like i can feel less restriction before boost kicks in.



      What am i feeling- is this just placebo? or does what i described make sense. Also, what is the point of the brake booster pump, like what does it do that the car is still running fine with out it? I assumed it was for the brakes ;P.

      Notes: The kit cost just under $100, but make make no mistake that this could be made using the stock tubing and some fittings for free!
      Last edited by jondevieonS40; 08-17-2020 at 08:23 PM.
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    9. #7
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612
      Quote Originally Posted by V50toS40 View Post
      Very cool project! Do you have more info on the RS*Vacuum Line Mod?
      Posted!
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    10. #8
      Member
      Join Date
      Mar 2011
      Location
      Miami, FL.
      Posts
      1,244
      So what is the point of the brake vac line mode? Is it just to make it look nicer?

    11. #9
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612
      Quote Originally Posted by psy View Post
      So what is the point of the brake vac line mode? Is it just to make it look nicer?
      Yeah cleans it up for sure but i feel like boost kicks in faster now too - few other guys noticed this as well.
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    12. #10
      Member
      Join Date
      Mar 2011
      Location
      Miami, FL.
      Posts
      1,244
      Quote Originally Posted by jondevieonS40 View Post
      Yeah cleans it up for sure but i feel like boost kicks in faster now too - few other guys noticed this as well.
      cool thanks for the info

    13. #11
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612

      Durango Road Trip

      This weekend me and my wife went to Durango Colorado for a weekend getaway. While doing a pre-trip inspection I noticed my coolant tank bubbling Ė sure as s**t there is a hairline crack top dead center. I pretend I didnít see it and begin our trip through the dessert mountains in 95* heat. The ride is smooth as silk until about half way the steering wheel starts to shimmy - great. We hobble into town and manage to check in, while im doing my post trip I realize a weight fell off my wheels and now my coolant tank is starting to bellow steam from the tank. I find a Discount tire in town, 3.6 miles away and closes in 30 minutes, the car made it 130 miles in 3hrs, I think I can make it a few more. IMG_5208[1].jpg

      Get to the tire shop which is right next to a Walmart and drop it off to have them rebalanced. Run to Walmart to pick up something to patch this tank with Ė I know if it cracks here in town, there is no way in hell we are getting back home until at least Wednesday. I pick up flexi seal, coolant system patch and extra coolant. The flexiseal spray is super thick and splashed everywhere, but after a few coats I let it cure over night Ė calls for at least 48hrs, and not intended for pressurized systems.
      The next morning, we enjoy breakfast, a hike and head back on the road. 75mph, AC cranking the whole way back no issues with the patch job it held. AS for the wheels, about 50 miles from home, the vibrations getting terrible, but only when I press the gas. While coasting the ride is fine, and I have no vibration through the steering wheel just the pedals under load. I get back home and pre-check everything, does look like I lost another weight on the opposite side, my axle boots are not torn but my engine mount looks like it s**t itself, maybe from the added wobbling and hobbling. I have an entire suspension refresh ready, i guess i might as well do the two front mounts as well.IMG_5211[1].jpg
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    14. #12
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612

      Jondevieon's Budget RS Build II

      Replaced the RH cv axle today,




      while there I also replaced some of the studs on the hub bearing without having to remove the hub. Grinded down some of the spindal to pass the bolts out, after that inserting the new ones is a breeze.


      Had to take my backup car to work



      Haha jk, Iím 6í1 I canít fit in there



      Much better


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Last edited by jondevieonS40; 08-21-2020 at 08:08 PM.
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    15. #13
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    16. #14
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612
      Used a universal 2.5Ē tubing kit from eBay to make a charge pipe, no cutting needed the kit has a 45* and 90* bend that are the perfect length to reach the turbo. The kit cost $75 so less than half the cost of the cheapest FWD charge pipe option.





      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    17. #15
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Dec 2019
      Posts
      38
      What wheel studs do you use and what ebay kit? Have you considered going t bolt style clamps? Thank you!

    18. #16
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Oct 2019
      Location
      Birmingham, AL
      Posts
      32
      I like the build! you seem to be rather good at finding part's that wouldn't come to first thought as to work for the c30. Any thoughts on a cheaper alternative for a external oil cooler?

    19. #17
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612
      Quote Originally Posted by unodos96 View Post
      I like the build! you seem to be rather good at finding part's that wouldn't come to first thought as to work for the c30. Any thoughts on a cheaper alternative for a external oil cooler?
      I heard the ones of an XC90 are an upgrade


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    20. #18
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612

      Jondevieon's Budget RS Build II

      Quote Originally Posted by LemonyGUy View Post
      What wheel studs do you use and what ebay kit? Have you considered going t bolt style clamps? Thank you!
      These : dorman autograde m12 -1.50 serrated wheel stud 14mm knurl 44.8mm

      And I personally hate T-bolt style clamps I think they look bulky and they always get in the way.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    21. #19
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612
      R Design Trim! Is it unethical to daylight as a Rdesign version.





      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    22. #20
      Member
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      San Diego, CA
      Posts
      1,016
      I recognize those pics. Someone's been OfferUp shopping lol.
      2005 Volvo V50 T5 AWD M66 (2017 - ) || 1987 Toyota MR2 (2016 - ) || 2002 Lexus IS300 (2016 - ) || 2005 Volvo S40 T5 AWD M66 (2016 - 2019) || 2008 Volvo V50 T5 (2015 - 2016) || 2001 Acura Integra GSR (2010 - 2010) Stolen lol

    23. #21
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612
      Quote Originally Posted by V50toS40 View Post
      I recognize those pics. Someone's been OfferUp shopping lol.
      Guilty lol Iíve been trying to buy homeboys steering wheel for a minute but I guess he barely started checking the app this week, he got a sick custom steering wheel made




      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    24. #22
      Member
      Join Date
      Mar 2011
      Location
      Miami, FL.
      Posts
      1,244
      In case you just want to get the wheel build to your spec

      https://www.c30mods.co.uk/product/custom-steering-wheel

    25. #23
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612
      Been busy for awhile so have not had a chance to do much work on the car till this last weekend. I installed a R-Design steering wheel, the difference is crazy, The steering wheel itself is obviously more comfortable to hold (and touch), but the steering itself felt a lot better - more responsive and smooth. The install was super easy and was able to transfer my cruise control module easily.



      I also installed Eibach lowering springs with Moog MazdaSpeed6 quick struts, and 1/4" spacers on the back - i wanted to see if the fronts would rub but they should be fine.
      IMG_5351[1].jpg
      IMG_5352[1].jpg
      The car obviously looks good, but i dont miss the stiff ride, i think i might just run the spacers all around to seal the fender gap, but the car was low enough before, its just a little more work than i think i willing to deal with - not to mention that dreaded clunking sound from the endlinks.
      Am i suppose to leave the oem rubber end from the top of the spring on the Eibachs? they had a very thin rubber sheath but im wondering if they are having a hard time setting.

      Last edited by jondevieonS40; 09-08-2020 at 09:04 PM.
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    26. #24
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612
      The C30 has been getting more and more stage 0 parts, parts that should have been installed long ago, but i focused on creating more projects then completing the ones at hand - oh well as is life. The cars gotten new axles, end links, tie rods and an oil change. The oil change was miserable with out the fumoto valve - i dropped my electric ratchet in my drain pan

      Another thing ive been dealing with lately is the Volvo community, i love the community but the more vested ive become and more groups ive shared with, the more i realize why some guys dont even come on here any more - or anywhere.

      The C30 community specifically is divided into two groups imo - the Purist and the Tuners.

      The Purist - Tend to prioritize using OEM parts for replacements and dont mind paying dealership prices, but will settle brands like Sachs and Bilstein. They are not opposed to OEM+ upgrades or small DIY projects for maintenance, but only if they are done to Volvo specifications. They will use upgrades like ECU spacers and upgraded bushings, but scoff at the idea of open intakes or lowered suspensions (unless OEM springs).

      The Tuners - Have no issue using non oem or cheap alternatives for maintenance, and will not pay dealership prices and are actively engaged, well tuning.

      Now, both of these groups are composed of everyone from engineers to high school students, separated into two other groups - the noobs and the know it all's.

      The know it all's see only one way of doing something even if there is obviously other ways that are valid - for example, I posted a Dice for sale, and i got more people arguing with each other about whether it works on Windows 7 or 10 than offered to buy it. I had people saying it was broken because the USB cord was detached, people selling their own software on my ad, not a single person admitted they might be wrong. They dont mind telling people how to fix their issues, but hate to explain.

      The noobs are excited and ask lots of questions, but do not follow up and ask questions that have already been answered. They will question fixes that seem are not super easy or expensive, and will actively ask about body kits and turbo upgrades.

      These are the extreme outliers, in between there is a logical group of Volvo owners that are able to arrange their thoughts in a respectable manner, even if they disagree. to these people i say i love you and dont get sucked into the madness.
      I have been off facebook for sometime, and i think in my return i forgot that social media is not a platform for responsible or logical debate - there is capacity for it - it is mostly people shouting their thoughts out loud, saying things they probably would not say in person. I think these forums are formatted in a way that forces users to be more formal than on social media, but obviously the lack of traffic makes it harder to reach more eyes.

      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    27. #25

      Jondevieon's Budget RS Build II

      Quote Originally Posted by jondevieonS40 View Post
      The C30 has been getting more and more stage 0 parts, parts that should have been installed long ago, but i focused on creating more projects then completing the ones at hand - oh well as is life. The cars gotten new axles, end links, tie rods and an oil change. The oil change was miserable with out the fumoto valve - i dropped my electric ratchet in my drain pan

      Another thing ive been dealing with lately is the Volvo community, i love the community but the more vested ive become and more groups ive shared with, the more i realize why some guys dont even come on here any more - or anywhere.

      The C30 community specifically is divided into two groups imo - the Purist and the Tuners.

      The Purist - Tend to prioritize using OEM parts for replacements and dont mind paying dealership prices, but will settle brands like Sachs and Bilstein. They are not opposed to OEM+ upgrades or small DIY projects for maintenance, but only if they are done to Volvo specifications. They will use upgrades like ECU spacers and upgraded bushings, but scoff at the idea of open intakes or lowered suspensions (unless OEM springs).

      The Tuners - Have no issue using non oem or cheap alternatives for maintenance, and will not pay dealership prices and are actively engaged, well tuning.

      Now, both of these groups are composed of everyone from engineers to high school students, separated into two other groups - the noobs and the know it all's.

      The know it all's see only one way of doing something even if there is obviously other ways that are valid - for example, I posted a Dice for sale, and i got more people arguing with each other about whether it works on Windows 7 or 10 than offered to buy it. I had people saying it was broken because the USB cord was detached, people selling their own software on my ad, not a single person admitted they might be wrong. They dont mind telling people how to fix their issues, but hate to explain.

      The noobs are excited and ask lots of questions, but do not follow up and ask questions that have already been answered. They will question fixes that seem are not super easy or expensive, and will actively ask about body kits and turbo upgrades.

      These are the extreme outliers, in between there is a logical group of Volvo owners that are able to arrange their thoughts in a respectable manner, even if they disagree. to these people i say i love you and dont get sucked into the madness.
      I have been off facebook for sometime, and i think in my return i forgot that social media is not a platform for responsible or logical debate - there is capacity for it - it is mostly people shouting their thoughts out loud, saying things they probably would not say in person. I think these forums are formatted in a way that forces users to be more formal than on social media, but obviously the lack of traffic makes it harder to reach more eyes.

      So where do you fall??? Lol If I had to categorize myself Iíd be: OEM if itís sound and there isnít an improved option but would improve upon OEM if available. Love modifying the car but do so only with high quality-well thought out replacement parts by reputable manufacturers. I feel I have a pretty good grasp on the mechanical aspect(though no formal training nor degree) of which I have two-unrelated to the automotive industry-due to being raised around sprint car and world of outlaw and drag racing as a child and even still drag racing as an adult. I have respect for people who try to do things on their own and also am aware that some people do not have the necessary skill-finances-or sometimes just the time or desire to take on projects. I believe the key is to help out when you can-take a step back if you cant-take the advice be it good or bad with a grain of salt and then apply the answers in a manor that suits YOU. Remember-its your car and you are the one driving it. Do what makes you happy. There are plenty of people on here including current or former technicians that have made plenty of mistakes....the key is-have they learned from them. Also I have no problem admitting when I ****ed up and letting people know so they dont **** up the same.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    28. #26
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612
      Quote Originally Posted by paradoxicallymodified View Post
      So where do you fall??? Lol If I had to categorize myself Iíd be: OEM if itís sound and there isnít an improved option but would improve upon OEM if available. Love modifying the car but do so only with high quality-well thought out replacement parts by reputable manufacturers. I feel I have a pretty good grasp on the mechanical aspect(though no formal trainer nor degree) of which I have two-unrelated to the automotive industry-due to being raised around sprint car and world of outlaw and drag racing as a child and even still drag racing as an adult. I have respect for people who try to do things on their own and also am aware that some people do not have the necessary skill-finances-or sometimes just the time or desire to take on projects. I believe the key is to help out when you can-take a step back if you cant-take the advice be it good or bad with a grain of salt and then apply the answers in a manor that suits YOU. Remember-its your car and you are the one driving it. Do what makes you happy. There are plenty of people on here including current or former technicians that have made plenty of mistakes....the key is-have they learned from them. Also I have no problem admitting when I ****ed up and letting people know so they dont **** up the same.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
      Iím just an asshole with a Volvo and too much time on his hands lol


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    29. #27
      Quote Originally Posted by jondevieonS40 View Post
      Iím just an asshole with a Volvo and too much time on his hands lol


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      I think a lot of assholes have extra time right now lol


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    30. #28
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612
      I asked if anyone knew how to wire up the fog lights to a the drls to avoid a software update, a guy comments ď lights always on blinding oncoming motoristĒ. Like wtf do I even say to that... Iím just venting.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    31. #29
      Quote Originally Posted by jondevieonS40 View Post
      I asked if anyone knew how to wire up the fog lights to a the drls to avoid a software update, a guy comments ď lights always on blinding oncoming motoristĒ. Like wtf do I even say to that... Iím just venting.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Iíd of been like.....yeah-so do you?


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    32. #30
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612

      Jondevieon's Budget RS Build II

      Buts thatís what Iím saying it was so nonsensical and unnecessary bro, like what happened to just not saying dick if you donít know - you know?

      Maybe he was from a country where they donít run their **** all day but cmon man

      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    33. #31
      Quote Originally Posted by jondevieonS40 View Post
      Buts thatís what Iím saying it was so nonsensical and unnecessary bro, like what happened to just not saying dick if you donít know - you know?

      Maybe he was from a country where they donít run their **** all day but cmon man

      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Thatís why if I canít add anything of use I just donít post. I do understand there are a few self proclaimed know-it-allís lurking about. They typically know enough to get themselves into trouble.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    34. #32
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Dahlonega, GA
      Posts
      15,084
      One of the many reasons why I tell people to JOIN forums for their cars. Unless you're driving a brand new model, there is a 99% chance your question/problem has already been answered. Forums are great because post counts and visible histories provide a sense of credibility. Most people won't listen to a forum member who only has 2 posts, but they'll listen to someone who has 100+ posts.

      The majority on social media are argumentative and lazy; wanting to be spoon fed without doing any research themselves.

      I'd reluctantly lump myself into the tuner know-it-all category..... But I genuinely try to be helpful... 11+ years of working on P1 Volvo and not a bolt on these cars that I haven't touched: from modding on a broke-college-student budget to no-expense-spared upgrades.
      There are cheap ways of doing things that aren't wrong. There are expensive ways of doing things that are a waste.
      Built cars are fun but there's always something better. Stock cars are perfectly capable, but even Volvo admitted they could be improved.
      I've worked with Volvo Master Techs and there are credible shortcuts. Vida is not the Volvo Bible.
      It's okay to agree to disagree. Accept constructive criticism and have humility.

      I love to learn and I'm open to what others have to share. I just hate when people say I'm wrong without providing a reason for why or their only justification is a single post or video they found online. I know I'm now cranky and short tempered with stupidity, so I try to distance myself to avoid getting annoyed. Life's too short to argue about cars on the screen when you can go out and drive cars in the real world.
      If someone wants to question my build, let's take it to the track.

      Quote Originally Posted by jondevieonS40 View Post
      I asked if anyone knew how to wire up the fog lights to a the drls to avoid a software update, a guy comments ď lights always on blinding oncoming motoristĒ. Like wtf do I even say to that... Iím just venting.
      If you're using LED fog bulbs that don't draw as much power, the city light wiring is sufficient for powering both the city lights and the fog lights. I had factory fog lights, but I rewired them to the city lights for three reasons.

      1. I can just turn on the city lights w/ fogs when driving in day-rain when I need to be seen but don't need to uselessly burn through my Xenon low beams to see the road.
      2. The approach light button on your key fob will turn on the city and fog lights, greatly illuminating the area in front of your car. A necessity when you park outside and you've seen bear in your yard.
      3. It illegally (in the US) allows you to leave your fog lights on when activating your high beams. When I hit my high beams, I want to maximize light output, not trade wide-foreground illumination for narrow-distant illumination.

    35. #33
      Member jondevieonS40's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      ABQ New Mexico
      Posts
      2,612
      I think i just had too many bad experiences yesterday in sequence, usually dealing with people is my specialty but since i had a son, all spare patience has been allocated to home boy. I have so much more respect for someone that just tells me straight up no or im wrong then passive aggressive bs - or snarky one liners - and thats all social media has become these days.

      Quote Originally Posted by MyNameIdeasWereTaken View Post
      If you're using LED fog bulbs that don't draw as much power, the city light wiring is sufficient for powering both the city lights and the fog lights. I had factory fog lights, but I rewired them to the city lights for three reasons.

      1. I can just turn on the city lights w/ fogs when driving in day-rain when I need to be seen but don't need to uselessly burn through my Xenon low beams to see the road.
      2. The approach light button on your key fob will turn on the city and fog lights, greatly illuminating the area in front of your car. A necessity when you park outside and you've seen bear in your yard.
      3. It illegally (in the US) allows you to leave your fog lights on when activating your high beams. When I hit my high beams, I want to maximize light output, not trade wide-foreground illumination for narrow-distant illumination.

      Where do you tap into, just the fuse box in the engine compartment?
      [2005 Volvo S40 2.4i][2008 Volvo S40 T5 AWD][2008 Volvo C3 T5 2.0 RS Build][2009 Volvo V50 T5 AWD R-Design][1987 Buick Grand National] "embody God, then go crazy"

    36. #34
      Global Moderator MyNameIdeasWereTaken's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Dahlonega, GA
      Posts
      15,084
      Quote Originally Posted by jondevieonS40 View Post
      Where do you tap into, just the fuse box in the engine compartment?
      The light assembly harness right before the headlight connectors. I just used a volt meter to find which wires were the city lights and spliced into those.

    37. #35
      Junior Member
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Auckland, New Zealand
      Posts
      388
      When you mounted the rs intercooler, you use the Ford pressure sensor or the Volvo one?

      The RS Mk3 Intercooler i have has a 12mm tall sensor mounting bracket vs the 6.3mm of the t5 intercooler. I'm concerned that pulling the sensor out of the airflow will cause reading issues.

      Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk
      All the best things in life are dirty...

    38. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    Similar Threads

    1. Jondevieon's Budget RS Build
      By jondevieonS40 in forum S40 & V50 (2005-2012)
      Replies: 21
      Last Post: 05-26-2020, 05:00 AM
    2. Budget V70R 3' exhaust build (under $200 in parts)
      By mechanicchris714 in forum R Forum (2004-2007)
      Replies: 9
      Last Post: 12-17-2017, 05:41 PM
    3. Why GT Rs are faster than MT Rs... see G-Tech data inside
      By R Kelly in forum R Forum (2004-2007)
      Replies: 212
      Last Post: 09-24-2009, 11:29 AM
    4. Volvos in the Village II...Rs welcome!
      By soledoc in forum R Forum (2004-2007)
      Replies: 0
      Last Post: 10-04-2007, 08:06 AM
    5. Rs,Rs, Rs!
      By JRL in forum R Forum (2004-2007)
      Replies: 5
      Last Post: 06-06-2005, 08:29 PM