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16T turbo upgrade 2.5t

10K views 21 replies 7 participants last post by  jnclary5 
#1 ·
Hello everyone, my turbo recently blew up on my 2.5t and I heard a 16t is the optimal upgrade for the 2.5t. My question is, can I hook up a 16t from a 2.3t without any modifications? I heard about differently angeled flanges and I want to make sure that I will not run into any issues regarding fitment and connections.
 
#2 ·
2003 and later 16Ts have the same oil and cooling connections as the 14Ts.

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#4 ·
The coupler is also a little different.

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#5 · (Edited)
I'm the current owner of that OTE and a set of blue injectors. PM me with an offer. You can run with your oranges but if they're sloppy you could run into engine damaging trouble. Swapping to blues gives you piece of mind but a tune would be mandatory to use the blues. If I were going to use oranges I would get mine cleaned and flow tested before putting on the turbo. Any low flow numbers and I would replace the injector. You're running with little to no reserve duty cycle on the oranges.

Without a tune you'll see faster ramp up to power and power holding into the upper RPM bands but the computer is going to fight to keep you at stock levels. To really make use of the turbo a tune is a must. The faster ramp up is where the danger lurks. Sloppy oranges plus a fast ramp up that the stock tune can't handle will threaten the engine.

Make sure the boost regulator and turbo control valve are in tip top condition. I would run a stock pressure spring in the TCV. I would also replace all of the vacuum lines and replace the turbo boost pressure valve with a new volvo branded unit. Off brand solenoids are not worth the risk and old hardware is inviting disaster. Stay away from ebay "new" turbos as well. Total junk.

Installing with oranges and no tune would run between 650 and 850.00 if you can get a cheap 16t and rebuild it. add 600 to 1000 for a tune.
 
#6 ·
Exhaust downpipe flange is the same. As covered above the water and oil lines are the same for all Mitsubishi 2003+ turbos (14t and 16t), the intake from the maf to the turbo is the same. You will need a different OTE pipe because of the neck on the 16t being shorter than the 14t. Coupler should be the same but earlier turbos have a very nice multi layer silicon coupler that can e used. Tune and fueling upgrades are recommended to maximized however it is safe to run it as is, me7 is load demand engine management and will only make the boost/load it requires. The benefit with stock maps is that the 16t is so much of a larger turbo (in comparison, they’re still pretty small as turbos go) that it’s incredibly efficient at the lower boost levels an XC runs so you will be making a lot of flow and much much less heat compared to the 14t.
 
#8 ·
Easy.

Manifold to turbo gasket, turbo to downpipe gasket. 6x 11994 washers (2 each banjo bolt), turbo return drain upper seal and lower o ring.

You'll need an earlier (and larger) over the engine charge pipe but that's easily sourced and bolts on.
 
#10 ·
did the swap, took way longer than anticipated. Very much not used to turbo location by firewall. Need to recheck wastegate, but I will say unless Torque Pro readings are off, my car is building boost too fast. It'll show 8psi+ of boost at even 1/4 throttle. These are initial test drives as I am working through a starting/MAF issue at the same time, but very surprising at this point. Also, I'm hearing the intake/spool music much deeper than before.
 
#11 ·
Try running with the tcv disconected. That defaults to pure wastegate pressure on the turbo. Also what wastegate actuator are you using and how pre-loaded is it?
 
#15 ·
Relax the wastegate to just enough preload to not flutter the flapper. Also make sure the arm moves super freely. Then start logging boost slowly.
 
#16 ·
Spent some time tonight making sure the vacuum lines were good and testing/adjusting wastegate arm as recommended. It does feela bit better, boost gets to 10lbs fairly easy but holds 12-14lbs well. Maybe I'm just not used to the turbo yet, or ECM needs to adjust but I'm slightly underwhelmed at this point with the 16t swap. Most likely getting a Hilton or Contrast tune in spring, but I hope the power band develops a more "full" feel to it in the near future. The exhaust definitely sounds deeper.
 
#17 ·
I mean you’re not going to make much above stock power without a tune, just as much as the ecu can learn and adapt for. 16t is 47% more turbo than a 14t so adjust your thinking to that for what it’s actually potential is. I highly recommend blue fuel injectors when you actually tune it.
 
#18 ·
I mean you're not going to make much above stock power without a tune, just as much as the ecu can learn and adapt for. 16t is 47% more turbo than a 14t so adjust your thinking to that for what it's actually potential is. I highly recommend blue fuel injectors when you actually tune it.
at this point I'm happy that it's mostly resolved, and boost is not spiking crazily- call it trauma from Mitsu 4G63T fun times. Definitely appreciate the help, I will PM you on your opinion on another matter, as I don't want to go off on a tangent on this thread.
 
#19 ·
Last input in this thread: my car finally had enough and threw me a P2281 Air Leak Between MAF & Throttle Body (as per Torque Pro). Lo and behold, my intercooler pipe was off the throttle body. Got to fix that after wife and baby went to sleep. That took care of my P0101 issue as well of course. Short Initial test drive yielded what I originally expected- nice full powerband, didn’t push too hard as it wasn’t fully up to operating temp, but it was holding strong to 12lbs. Grateful for the help here. If this was my VR4 the first thing I would’ve done was look for a boost leak, but guess I’m out of practice. Hopefully tune in the spring!
 
#20 ·
Update: since i originally used an OTE pipe from a 01-02 T5, it fit in my lower intercooler hose ok since it was so old and soft. I recently got a DO88 silicon intercooler hose kit from a member here and eagerly tried to install. The kit apparently was for a 05-07 P2, and the lower hose wouldn't fit- upper one did. I thought maybe it was just tight because it was silicon, so being the bonehead that I was, ordered a Gates one for my 06, and of course, it was too small for the 01-02 OTE pipe. I had spent way too much time trying to figure out which was the correct hose, and I was concerned as in the pics it seemed the earlier hoses had a slight different shape, and some fitment guides states one should fit all.

I finally figured out that I needed the hose for the early P2's (pn 31261372). Got it from FCP and it fits proper. Here's a comparison pic of the two hoses of the end that goes over the OTE pipe. 01-02 hose on the right, stock 2.5t hose left.
114586
 
#21 ·
Just a bump to say that I'm about to do the 16t upgrade on my 07 XC70 2.5t (P2)

I have an 04 V70 T5 with a totally boned auto gearbox, but the rest of the car is in immaculate condition. Was planning to sell the T5 but just noticed a few drops of oil under my XC70, low & behold there is oil leaking from my intercooler piping. Not good news for the little 14t. Instead of spending way too much on a new turbo I am planning on swapping the 16t from the V70 along with injectors, OTE charge pipe, and other bits and pieces that the V70 has in better condition as this car is still fairly low km (160k km on the V70 compared to 280k on the XC70)

Planning on getting injectors flow tested and cleaned, and replacing all lines and fittings to be safe.

I wanted to find out if it is possible to run the blue injectors without a tune?

The tune will follow the turbo upgrade within the next 2 weeks as I was planning a tune for the 14t in any case.

I should have all non-consumable parts available straight off the V70.

If I there are any tips and tricks to this I would really appreciate any input, this thread has already been a lifesaver already! Hoping to make closer to the 180+kw mark of the V70.
 
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