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    1. #1
      Member CYB3RBYTE's Avatar
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      Headlight Lens Replacement

      When I first got my car I tried to remove the hazing that was oddly just on the top of the lens. Sadly, it removed it, but left the rest of the lens looking terrible since. I've tried everything under the sun to get them to look better.

      I'm looking for a lens replacement option, versus replacing the whole headlight. Does anyone know of a lens replacement they have used or liked for the facelift cars?
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      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 95,1xx

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    3. #2
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      Have you tried the sanding method? Use three successive grits of sandpaper, buff the lens with chemical, then reapply UV protectant and clear coat and such?


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      Barents Blue Metallic S40 T5 AWD M66 Manual

    4. #3
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Unfortunately I have never been able to find a lens for pre facelift cars, only facelift. I dont think they make them for our cars. I’d try the sanding method.


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      2006 S40 2.4i FWD

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    6. #4
      Member CYB3RBYTE's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by evy0311 View Post
      Unfortunately I have never been able to find a lens for pre facelift cars, only facelift. I dont think they make them for our cars. I’d try the sanding method.


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      I’m looking for one for a facelift, 2011 car!
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 95,1xx

    7. #5
      Member CYB3RBYTE's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tarsas View Post
      Have you tried the sanding method? Use three successive grits of sandpaper, buff the lens with chemical, then reapply UV protectant and clear coat and such?


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      Yeah I used the 3m kit on both headlights multiple times. The spots where there used to be oxidation are perfect, but I feel like by doing the process it made everything but that oxidized spot worse.

      I’ve done it all over the headlight exactly to the instructions, maybe I should just take the lens off the assembly and do it to the inside?
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 95,1xx

    8. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      Yeah I used the 3m kit on both headlights multiple times. The spots where there used to be oxidation are perfect, but I feel like by doing the process it made everything but that oxidized spot worse.

      I’ve done it all over the headlight exactly to the instructions, maybe I should just take the lens off the assembly and do it to the inside?
      I’m not talking about the 3M kit. I’m talking about stuff you’d buy at a hardware and autoparts store. You get sandpaper (ex. 2000 grit, 1000 grit, 500 grit) and use each successive grit on the lights going from smaller to larger numbers. Then, you need to buff the lens with some rubbing compound and a drill brush. Then, you reapply the UV treatment and clear coat.
      Barents Blue Metallic S40 T5 AWD M66 Manual

    9. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by evy0311 View Post
      Unfortunately I have never been able to find a lens for pre facelift cars, only facelift. I dont think they make them for our cars. I’d try the sanding method.


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      https://www.ebay.com/i/254336386344?...IaAlPPEALw_wcB

      I did see these.
      Barents Blue Metallic S40 T5 AWD M66 Manual

    10. #8
      Member CYB3RBYTE's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tarsas View Post
      I’m not talking about the 3M kit. I’m talking about stuff you’d buy at a hardware and autoparts store. You get sandpaper (ex. 2000 grit, 1000 grit, 500 grit) and use each successive grit on the lights going from smaller to larger numbers. Then, you need to buff the lens with some rubbing compound and a drill brush. Then, you reapply the UV treatment and clear coat.
      Should I buy like a sanding block or just use the paper itself to rub on the lens? I’ll give it a go tomorrow.

      What UV treatment would you recommend? I also need to re-clear coat my mirror covers and could use explanation of that as well.
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 95,1xx

    11. #9
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Tarsas View Post
      Interesting. Although they’re completely clear, no black outline. Not sure if that would look weird or not, but sanding would be a lot cheaper and easier to do.


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      2006 S40 2.4i FWD

    12. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      Should I buy like a sanding block or just use the paper itself to rub on the lens? I’ll give it a go tomorrow.

      What UV treatment would you recommend? I also need to re-clear coat my mirror covers and could use explanation of that as well.
      I’m definitely not the guy to tell you about doing bodywork like clearcoating mirrors. I can give you simple advice on headlights though.

      This is a solid guide.

      https://www.instructables.com/id/How...ur-Headlights/
      Barents Blue Metallic S40 T5 AWD M66 Manual

    13. #11
      Member beachnut's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      Should I buy like a sanding block or just use the paper itself to rub on the lens? I’ll give it a go tomorrow.

      What UV treatment would you recommend? I also need to re-clear coat my mirror covers and could use explanation of that as well.
      These work better than sanding blocks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , but need sandpaper discs, I have used these: https://www.autogeek.net/mirka-3-inch-variety-pack.html . This will work for polish: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s...RoCCUYQAvD_BwE , and I like this for sealing the lenses: https://www.mckees37.com/headlight-coating.html . For wetsanding I prefer something with more lubricity than water like this: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
      2015.5 XC60 T6 Flamenco Red/Sand, Platinum, Tech, Blis
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    14. #12
      Member CYB3RBYTE's Avatar
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      After following the instructions of the instructibles article, here are the results:



      They’re still pretty cloudy on the sides, and have scratching on the fronts. Maybe I should use the 2000 grit on them again?
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 95,1xx

    15. #13
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      Check to see if it's on the inside of the lens, mine were hazed both sides, had to pull the lens from the housing and sand down both sides and respray. Although also gave me time to fully rewire the headlights too

    16. #14
      Member CYB3RBYTE's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by EvilWang View Post
      Check to see if it's on the inside of the lens, mine were hazed both sides, had to pull the lens from the housing and sand down both sides and respray. Although also gave me time to fully rewire the headlights too
      Okay, it is more cloudy than before though, so what step of the instructible should I go back and repeat to make them more clear at least for the time being?
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 95,1xx

    17. #15
      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      Okay, it is more cloudy than before though, so what step of the instructible should I go back and repeat to make them more clear at least for the time being?
      Sanding is your issue.
      What people don't understand is that typically sanding by hand takes a REALLY long time. For example to get the majority of your scratches and stuff out of your headlights, you would probably need to run your 400 grit for a half hour solid by hand, and even that might not be enough depending on how deep your pitting and staining and yellowing is.

      From there, say you want to go up to 1000 grit - that means you'd need to sand 2.5 (1000 grit/400 grit = 2.5) times as long to get the scratches from the 400 grit out and turn it into 1000 grit scratches. From there if you want to go to 2000 grit for a light haze, you'd need to sand for (2000 grit / 1000 grit = 2) 2x as long as you sanded to make all your scratches 2000 grit deep. 2000 grit is also not clear - it is relatively hazy still.

      This is why powertools are lifesavers in this area.

      The last step is the polishing - this is one of those things that the longer you do it the better depending on the material you're working with and the state of the polish compound - You don't want to polish plastic with small pieces of plastic, so when your polishing compound wears out - wipe it off and start with new stuff, and go until the 2000 grit (for example) scratches are all gone. There is a reason this takes time and practice - because it is not easy. You can do it, but it will take practice to get good.
      Last edited by avenger09123; 08-20-2020 at 09:34 AM.
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    18. #16
      Member CYB3RBYTE's Avatar
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      Okay, so if I were to use a random orbit sander what would those time values be then?
      Last edited by CYB3RBYTE; 08-20-2020 at 09:18 AM.
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 95,1xx

    19. #17
      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      Okay, so if I were to use a random orbit sander what would those time values be then?
      I don't know, and not many can answer - there is no one good answer - Depends on sander, lube, sandpaper, etc.

      My recommendation follows what they mention in the page - sand entirely one direction (right + left). Then when changing grits - sand entirely 90* until you can't see scratches in the wrong direction - and keep going until it's done and you get to polish.

      Remember that you're going from 2000grit to 10,000 grit or finer when it comes to polishing so there is a much larger time commitment to polish something correctly. Think about it this way - toothpaste is like 20-40,000 grit depending on brand and ingredients. Mirror polishing goes up to like 500,000 grit.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
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    20. #18
      Member AutoGeek's Avatar
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      How is the wiring in your headlights? The insulation on mine is very brittle and cracking off. I was rather horrified when I removed the headlights to polish my lenses. I polished them but not as intense as outlined above. I used the Meguiar's Heavy Duty Headlight Restoration Kit and could have done a better job with it than I did. They look much better but not like new. Given the condition of my wiring, I think I might just replace the headlights. TYC makes some affordable aftermarket replacements and save me a lot of work.
      2005 V50 T5 FWD M66 Passion Red (Radio Flyer) Bilstein HD, ECU spacer, Snabb Turbo Pipe

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    21. #19
      Member CYB3RBYTE's Avatar
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      A quick google has not found a TYC replacement for these lights , maybe they don't do the facelift cars. I am scheduling an appointment with a detailer, I am getting tired of messing with these considering the amount of time I've spend doing this lol.
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 95,1xx

    22. #20
      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      A quick google has not found a TYC replacement for these lights , maybe they don't do the facelift cars. I am scheduling an appointment with a detailer, I am getting tired of messing with these considering the amount of time I've spend doing this lol.
      https://www.bimmerjakes.com/en/volvo...ic-covers.html

      Also looking at TYC's catalogue, they do have stuff for you:
      http://www.tyc.com.tw/index.php/ecatalog
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    23. #21
      Member LizardOfBodom's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      https://www.bimmerjakes.com/en/volvo...ic-covers.html

      Also looking at TYC's catalogue, they do have stuff for you:
      http://www.tyc.com.tw/index.php/ecatalog
      Just a word of warning - got a set of TYC lamps myself when doing D2S conversion, sent it back the next day. The quality of those was TERRIBLE, plastics, lenses and projectors. It lights, yes, it will pass MOT, yes, but adjuster broke just by looking at it and whole unit felt like a toy not a automotive headlamp. 2005 pre FL mine.
      I ended up getting set from 2006 car from scrapper and paid someone to do nice lens polish. Cost me 2x less than TYC set and ended up with better base for modding.
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    24. #22
      Quote Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom View Post
      Just a word of warning - got a set of TYC lamps myself when doing D2S conversion, sent it back the next day. The quality of those was TERRIBLE, plastics, lenses and projectors. It lights, yes, it will pass MOT, yes, but adjuster broke just by looking at it and whole unit felt like a toy not a automotive headlamp. 2005 pre FL mine.
      I ended up getting set from 2006 car from scrapper and paid someone to do nice lens polish. Cost me 2x less than TYC set and ended up with better base for modding.
      My TYC's are the same. Low quality.
      However I feel OEM's are no better. Definitely not worth the $500 OEM vs $150 TYC price difference.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
      2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT - Slowmobile - CAI only, Powerstop Rotors+Pads.
      1996 HD Electra Glide - Big Bertha - 10:1 Wisecos; EV13 Cam: Ultima Digital Ignition; Buell Head Conversion; E85 Carb Tuned;

    25. #23
      Member CYB3RBYTE's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      https://www.bimmerjakes.com/en/volvo...ic-covers.html

      Also looking at TYC's catalogue, they do have stuff for you:
      http://www.tyc.com.tw/index.php/ecatalog
      The bimmer ones are still for non-facelift cars, or at least I don’t think they’ll fit my C30. I’ll have to search the TYC catalogue, we put them on our family’s XC90 and they were fine, no issues.
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 95,1xx

    26. #24
      Member CYB3RBYTE's Avatar
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      Had them polished professionally today, WOW. They’re now at a 9/10. Shout out to P&R cleaning in Grafton, WI.



      To be honest, I think I did some of the work by sanding off most of the old UV layer for them, but I had no idea how to polish correctly (nor did I have the tools). $40 later, I think we’re done here!
      In the Garage
      Viveka / 1996 850 N/A, Polar White + Oak / 136,5xx /
      Quicksilver / 2011 C30 T5 M66 / Silver Metallic + Off Black / 95,1xx

    27. #25
      Member AutoGeek's Avatar
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      They look great. I'd do the same if it weren't for my crusty wires.
      2005 V50 T5 FWD M66 Passion Red (Radio Flyer) Bilstein HD, ECU spacer, Snabb Turbo Pipe

      1998 V70 NA - Sold, 2002 S40 1.9T - R.I.P., 2005 V50 T5 - RIP

      Remember kids, Speed doesn't kill ... impact does!

    28. #26
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      make sure you wet sand it. I use the sylvania headlight restoration kit and you have to put some elbow grease into the sanding, but when you are done, they look like brand new.

    29. #27
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      I stripped out both my headlights and rewired/fixed all of it while sanding both lenses inside and out over a couple of months while I had it on the ramps for some big work... I sanded and resprayed so much, I learnt a lot, dont press hard and go easy on the spray - and next time I'd just pay someone else to do it.

    30. #28
      Senior Member ZZZZZZZ's Avatar
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      That cost you 40 bucks? Dang. Film them or it's coming back...you won't be done.
      Quote Originally Posted by CYB3RBYTE View Post
      Had them polished professionally today, WOW. They’re now at a 9/10. Shout out to P&R cleaning in Grafton, WI.
      To be honest, I think I did some of the work by sanding off most of the old UV layer for them, but I had no idea how to polish correctly (nor did I have the tools). $40 later, I think we’re done here!
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    31. #29
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      Dang! That only cost you $40?? That looks great!

      I've polished the headlights on a couple of cars using a power drill w/ sanding discs and polishing pads. It took me about an hour (including taping the paint around the headlights) and my results on one car were about 7/10, the other 8/10.

      Definitely get film on the lenses or apply a sealant on them or that work you paid for is temporary. If your car is garaged, that will help slow the process. One of the cars I did is garaged and not outside for long (old lady drives it). Its headlights still look good. The other car was my daily driver that lives outside (not the S40). I polished those headlights a little over a year ago and I'm ready to do it again.
      2007 S40 T5

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