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    1. #36
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Sorry for being a little bit rude, but I think itís not worth risking a good running car until you figure out the cause of this problem.


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    3. #37
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
      Sorry for being a little bit rude, but I think itís not worth risking a good running car until you figure out the cause of this problem.


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      Yeah I agree. I donít have to drive the car for the next week or so so itís going to sit but when Iím back I plan on looking further into this. Itís just hard because the light is so intermittent that I canít exactly narrow down the cause of it without dropping the pan.


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    4. #38
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Oil pressure light randomly coming on, oil level fine

      Quote Originally Posted by evy0311 View Post
      Itís just hard because the light is so intermittent that I canít exactly narrow down the cause of it without dropping the pan.
      Well, you actually can do that. Get an oil pressure gauge. Harbor freight sells one for $30

      IMHO Spending $30 beats having to drop the oil pan. Any day.


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    6. #39
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
      Well, you actually can do that. Get an oil pressure gauge. Harbor freight sells one for $30

      IMHO Spending $30 beats having to drop the oil pan. Any day.


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      I assume this would leave the light on on the dash correct?

      And then also I assume thereís no way for me to drive with a gauge on?


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    7. #40
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Oil pressure light randomly coming on, oil level fine

      If you follow the exact VIDA procedure, yes.

      If you add a T fitting then no.

      I would try the VIDA procedure first. Youíll need somebody on the car to move the accelerator pedal. And since youíre already there get a new oil pressure sensor.

      If the oil pressure on the gauge is normal, and you still have the intermittent light, that could be an electrical problem.

      If you want to drive the car, i guess you would need an extension hose for the gauge.

      Or a very brave friend:




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    8. #41
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
      If you follow the exact VIDA procedure, yes.

      If you add a T fitting then no.

      I would try the VIDA procedure first. Youíll need somebody on the car to move the accelerator pedal. And since youíre already there get a new oil pressure sensor.

      If the oil pressure on the gauge is normal, and you still have the intermittent light, that could be an electrical problem.

      If you want to drive the car, i guess you would need an extension hose for the gauge.

      Or a very brave friend:




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      Got it.

      Also- that picture?!? If you guys see an article on the news that looks just like that... itís probably me [emoji51][emoji23]


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    9. #42
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      I would not suggest a T- fitting, it can potentially change the reading, and it should be temporary!

      If you insist, then put the gauge on a straight through leg, and the sensor on the 90. Don't run any extra tubing.
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    10. #43
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by tmtalpey View Post
      I would not suggest a T- fitting, it can potentially change the reading, and it should be temporary!

      If you insist, then put the gauge on a straight through leg, and the sensor on the 90. Don't run any extra tubing.
      Question, if nobody here knows I can try to find it in VIDA, But what would a ďnormalĒ oil pressure reading be on the 2.4i motor? Again I can try to dig it up in Vida if nobody knows. I know itís above 7psi for the light to not be on (per a post in this thread).


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    11. #44
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by tmtalpey View Post
      I would not suggest a T- fitting
      Air in the fitting/lines affecting the reading??

      Good point on that!



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    12. #45
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      Air, debris, you name it. It might be accurate, but you don't want guessing.

      I'm not sure if there's a factory spec, but IMO on a Volvo engine (exceptionally well-made) you want to see 20+ psi at idle and double that at higher rpm. If you see 7psi on a cold engine, you are in trouble. Heck, if you see it on a hot engine, you have an issue.
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    13. #46
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      I am not sure why you found sludge in your oil pan. If there was sludge in the bottom of the pan, there could be sludge somewhere else in the engine, and that might be the cause of intermittent low oil pressure warning. My 2005 S60 gets an oil change at 3000 mile intervals, and I have no reason to think that there is sludge anywhere in the engine. However, the 10,000 mile oil change interval does have an environmental benefit, since there is less waste oil generated. It also reduces maintenance cost. If my car had the low oil pressure warning, and yet the dipstick indicated the oil level is OK, I would suspect some problem with the oil pickup mechanism.

    14. #47
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Eric T Johnson View Post
      I am not sure why you found sludge in your oil pan. If there was sludge in the bottom of the pan, there could be sludge somewhere else in the engine, and that might be the cause of intermittent low oil pressure warning. My 2005 S60 gets an oil change at 3000 mile intervals, and I have no reason to think that there is sludge anywhere in the engine. However, the 10,000 mile oil change interval does have an environmental benefit, since there is less waste oil generated. It also reduces maintenance cost. If my car had the low oil pressure warning, and yet the dipstick indicated the oil level is OK, I would suspect some problem with the oil pickup mechanism.
      I believe the PO might have gone longer without oil changes and without changing the PCV, so there was some crud buildup in the tubes where PCV gasses flow from the pan. Thatís all the sludge was, and I cleared it out and it looks good now. I now do oil changes between 5-7k miles and use full synthetic. The oil pickup mechanism and tube was completely fine when I checked it.


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    15. #48
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      Quote Originally Posted by evy0311 View Post
      Also to add, two months ago I had dropped my oil pan and cleared out all the sludge around the pickup tube, etc, and replaced all seals and gaskets relating to the oil pan/oil cooler. So I doubt the pickup tube is clogged, as I also changed the oil then as well.


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      Was there something happening that caused you drop the oil pan and clean the sludge?

    16. #49
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by icepickjazz View Post
      Was there something happening that caused you drop the oil pan and clean the sludge?
      Iíve had my check engine light on since I bought my car. The code is related to the MAF. Iíve changed almost every sensor on the motor but sometimes when coming to a stop it hunts for idle. Per the recommendation of moosetech (for those who know him) he suggested I check the PCV passageways that lead to the oil pan and clear them. They were gunked up so I did clear them, and there was no change relating to the MAF code.


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    17. #50
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      I found the oil pressure specifications on VIDA, it seems this applies only for 2.4 and 2.4i engines (B5244S4 , B5244S5 & B5244S7)

      Oil pressure (min.)

      13.3 r/s (800 rpm) ........0.10 MpaĻ (14.5 psi)
      14.2 r/s (850 rpm) ........0.10 MpaĻ (14.5 psi)
      66.7 r/s (4000 rpm) .......0.35 MpaĻ (50.8 psi)
      Maximum oil pressure (the relief valve opens) ........0.48 MpaĻ (69.6 psi)
      ĻThe oil pressure given is for an oil temperature of 100 įC, which is reached after 10Ė15 minutes driving.

    18. #51
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
      I found the oil pressure specifications on VIDA, it seems this applies only for 2.4 and 2.4i engines (B5244S4 , B5244S5 & B5244S7)
      Awesome, thanks very much. Iíll try to get out to harbor freight this weekend and pickup the gauge, damn airbox is gonna be a PITA to remove so maybe Iíll just build a custom air intake while Iím at it so I donít have to put the damn thing back in. Thank you all for all the help, Iíll keep you posted on my findings.


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    19. #52
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      You may not need to remove the air box, you can access the sensor from under the car



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      Last edited by Facusan; 10-21-2020 at 11:55 PM.

    20. #53
      Do you know if the prior owner ran conventional and never let the car cool off before shutting down?

      Originally these cars were spec'd to run conventional...
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    21. #54
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
      You may not need to remove the air box, you can access the sensor from under the car
      This.
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    22. #55
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      Do you know if the prior owner ran conventional and never let the car cool off before shutting down?

      Originally these cars were spec'd to run conventional...
      I can check my maintenance records I got from them, I believe they were running whatever was recommended in the manual/by Volvo as a lot of the original maintenance was done by a Volvo dealership.

      Wouldnt full synthetic be better at such a high mileage?


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    23. #56
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Getting under the car will be hard for me currently as Iím away at school and donít have any ramps/good jack etc. Iíve been looking at buying a set of rhino ramps though to keep at my apartment in case I ever need to do basic work like oil changes while Iím up here.

      Iíll try to see what I can do because if I can avoid removing the airbox Iím all for it, itís a pita to get out. Iíll also go ahead and order a new oil switch just to replace while Iím under there for good measure, especially if the pressures do seem normal.


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    24. #57
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      You can get a pair of 2-ton jack stands for ~$25 and a 2-ton trolley jack for -$30 at walmart.

      Thatís what Iíve been using for the last 3 years.

      The jack stands work perfect and gave me no problems at all.

      The trolley jack, well..... It leaks oil and after 2.5 years it wasnít raising the car enough to fit the jackstand (it had very low oil), I refilled it with rotella 10w-40 heavy duty diesel oil and now works like a charm. It still leaks a little bit of oil though.





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    25. #58
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
      You can get a pair of 2-ton jack stands for ~$25 and a 2-ton trolley jack for -$30 at walmart.

      Thatís what Iíve been using for the last 3 years.

      The jack stands work perfect and gave me no problems at all.

      The trolley jack, well..... It leaks oil and after 2.5 years it wasnít raising the car enough to fit the jackstand (it had very low oil), I refilled it with rotella 10w-40 heavy duty diesel oil and now works like a charm. It still leaks a little bit of oil though.





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      The biggest problem is storing them. Rhino ramps are really light and easy to carry into my apartment whereas a trolley jack well... thatís another story! Next year though Iíll have more of a proper way to store these types of things. My apartment is just small and I have no garage etc.


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    26. #59
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Iím in the same situation.



      And what you see there are 4 jackstands 1 trolley jack, 4 hockey pucks and 2 wheel chocks. They all fit in a small archive cabinet.




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    27. #60
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
      Iím in the same situation.



      And what you see there are 4 jackstands 1 trolley jack, 4 hockey pucks and 2 wheel chocks. They all fit in a small archive cabinet.




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      Okay maybe I can do it.... lol. Being in college sucks as a car guy because I have a lot of time to work on my car, but no good place to do it unless I want to drive 2 hours back to my parents... the struggles!

      If I do end up taking out the airbox, I assume itís a straight shot to the oil pressure sensor? If I remember correctly last time we changed it (4-5 years back) we went from the bottom, so I assume itís right behind it?


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    28. #61
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Not really, it is on the passenger side of where the dipstick tube connects to the block, a little bit above the oil pan





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    29. #62
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      Yeah, removing the airbox really doesn't help much. I marked up Facusan's photo

      2ef48432bb12e5f8e0a87720f0a29b2b.jpg
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    30. #63
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by tmtalpey View Post
      Yeah, removing the airbox really doesn't help much. I marked up Facusan's photo

      2ef48432bb12e5f8e0a87720f0a29b2b.jpg
      I see, so you do need to go from under the car. Well Iíll look into getting some rhino ramps or something so I can get under there and go at it. Any reason to get the OEM sensor over something aftermarket like iPD? Will OEM last longer or are they all about the same?


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    31. #64
      Global Moderator tmtalpey's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by evy0311 View Post
      Any reason to get the OEM sensor over something aftermarket like iPD? Will OEM last longer or are they all about the same?
      You want the OEM part for this, but I bet that's exactly what iPD sells.

      Test first and maybe save your money.
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    32. #65
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      I went through a similar issue with a Toyota 1MZFE engine which is a known sludger. I replaced the valve stem seals and clean a bunch of carbon/sludge related to pvc. Intermittent oil pressure light afterwards. Knocking the sludge/carbon loose can cause a lot of issues. I replaced the Oil Pressure sensor w/o testing the oil pressure, which didn't resolve the issue. Then, i purchased oil pressure gauge and found oil pressure was not adequate. if you purchase the pressure gauge from HF. Need to run the engine for 15-20 minutes and recorded the oil pressure ever 2 minutes or so. Also need to rev the engine around 3,000 RPM and record the pressure. You need to understand pressure at both idle and under type of load. The pressure will drop as theh oil becomes warmer so it is important to monitoir pressure for a longer period of time.

      After replacing the sensor and no change, i did some additional investigation. Found both the oil filter was clogged, oil pick up tube clogged. Easy to check your filter and replace. You may need to drop the oil pan again, clean the pickup tube and double check the o-rings.

    33. #66
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by icepickjazz View Post
      I went through a similar issue with a Toyota 1MZFE engine which is a known sludger. I replaced the valve stem seals and clean a bunch of carbon/sludge related to pvc. Intermittent oil pressure light afterwards. Knocking the sludge/carbon loose can cause a lot of issues. I replaced the Oil Pressure sensor w/o testing the oil pressure, which didn't resolve the issue. Then, i purchased oil pressure gauge and found oil pressure was not adequate. if you purchase the pressure gauge from HF. Need to run the engine for 15-20 minutes and recorded the oil pressure ever 2 minutes or so. Also need to rev the engine around 3,000 RPM and record the pressure. You need to understand pressure at both idle and under type of load. The pressure will drop as theh oil becomes warmer so it is important to monitoir pressure for a longer period of time.

      After replacing the sensor and no change, i did some additional investigation. Found both the oil filter was clogged, oil pick up tube clogged. Easy to check your filter and replace. You may need to drop the oil pan again, clean the pickup tube and double check the o-rings.
      Could it be possible that in your case, and potentially in mine, that the oil sludge you knocked loose allowed more sludge to break free and clog the filter/pickup tube? Iím gonna check my filter as well just to make sure it didnít get clogged up wuick. Thanks for the info though!


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    34. #67
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Going to pop the oil filter out this week and check out if there is a lot of sludge built up or not. I have a feeling that me clearing the PCV and other oil passages might have allowed some sludge to break free and that it is potentially clogging the filter housing and not letting oil go back down into the pan to be picked up. Also need to try and source a filter but nobody has European made ones here locally. Probably not a huge deal, Iíd just prefer something like Mann.


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    35. #68
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Iíve used a few Mexican-made MANN filters and theyíre as good as the German-made.

      I used to buy the filters at Advance auto parts at ~$7

      I also checked out the Purolator branded filters, which were more expensive (~$13), and inside the box found a MANN branded filter.


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    36. #69
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
      Iíve used a few Mexican-made MANN filters and theyíre as good as the German-made.

      I used to buy the filters at Advance auto parts at ~$7

      I also checked out the Purolator branded filters, which were more expensive (~$13), and inside the box found a MANN branded filter.


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      Good to note- I figured most filters were made by probably a select few companies, Mann being one of them, and then just rebranded.


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    37. #70
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by evy0311 View Post
      Good to note- I figured most filters were made by probably a select few companies, Mann being one of them, and then just rebranded.


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      Yeah, that happens almost with everything in these days.

      BTW, The purolator it wasnít even rebranded. It had MANN and HU719/8X written on it, the only difference was the box.


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