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    1. #71
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Okay, Iím *highly* likely going to get roasted for this, and Iím ready to take it. Iím embarrassed honestly, especially since Iíve been working on cars for several years. Apparently, my oil level *was* low, several quarts in fact, and apparently my dumbass was not seeing that on the dipstick. Oil was reading on one side of the stick, which I believe was just coming from the inside of the dipstick tube, but apparently I was several quarts low. Checked and there were no metal shavings or anything in the filter or anything, so I think Iím fine, but I really feel like a dumbass, and am ready for people to lay into me for this one... especially since I do check my oil level often. Appreciate all the help, sometimes the simplest solutions are the correct ones.

      P.s. already been made fun of by everyone in my family for this, so keep it coming! [emoji23][emoji23]


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    3. #72
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Do you remember how many qts of oil you put after reinstalling the oil pan?


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    4. #73
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Oil pressure light randomly coming on, oil level fine

      Quote Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
      Do you remember how many qts of oil you put after reinstalling the oil pan?


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      I put 5 quarts in, it was 5w-30 Liqui-Moli. After that I drove it around the block, came back and put in another half a quart or so and it was reading just under the full line. That was ~ 3 months ago. Thatís why I also assumed it was fine because Iím not sure where all of the oil went... because I highly doubt Iím burning that much in such a short period of time.


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    6. #74
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Also, Iíd rather to be roasted than dropping the oil pan find nothing, put it back, spend several hours or days trying to figure out and then realize the oil was low and be roasted with the mother of all roasts in the history.


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    7. #75
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
      Also, Iíd rather to be roasted than dropping the oil pan find nothing, put it back, spend several hours or days trying to figure out and then realize the oil was low and be roasted with the mother of all roasts in the history.


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      Yeah thatís true, I really feel like a dummy for this one but Iím glad I didnít drop the whole pan just yet. I was sloshing the car around hard after this and no oil light on at all- thank god.


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    8. #76
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      5.5 qts is not enough. 6.1 qts is the capacity according to the manual. Everytime I change the oil, I put 6 qts back in it. then I top off as necessary.

      Also is worth to mention, I do the oil change with a cold engine. after it sat all night. That way I believe I drain the most of the oil as possible.

    9. #77
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
      5.5 qts is not enough. 6.1 qts is the capacity according to the manual. Everytime I change the oil, I put 6 qts back in it. then I top off as necessary.

      Also is worth to mention, I do the oil change with a cold engine. after it sat all night. That way I believe I drain the most of the oil as possible.
      Yeah the engine was definitely cold because when I changed the oil I had changed the oil pan seals/gaskets during the day prior to changing the oil (when I cleared PCV passages of sludge). But overall I still regardless of what I put in donít know where several quarts went over the last few months. I know these motors will burn oil but I didnít think it would be that much.


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    10. #78
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Wait! 1.4 qts is the difference between MIN and MAX on the dipstick.

      5.5 qts should get you close to half of the dipstick.

      and How many quarts you added to the engine?

    11. #79
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
      Wait! 1.4 qts is the difference between MIN and MAX on the dipstick.

      5.5 qts should get you close to half of the dipstick.

      and How many quarts you added to the engine?
      So I put around 5.5 in when I did the change. Today we added around 4-4.5 quarts (yeah I know, Iím dumb).


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    12. #80
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by evy0311 View Post
      So I put around 5.5 in when I did the change. Today we added around 4-4.5 quarts (yeah I know, Iím dumb).


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      I forgot to put how many quarts you added to the engine *today*?

      and no, you're not dumb. And I'm not making fun of you.

      but 4.5qts!! WTF?!. There's definitely something else here. that's waaaaay to much oil to dissapear in 3 months. unless you drive like a maniac.

      I usually add 1/2 qt after 6 months or 3k miles.

    13. #81
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
      I forgot to put how many quarts you added to the engine *today*?

      and no, you're not dumb. And I'm not making fun of you.

      but 4.5qts!! WTF?!. There's definitely something else here. that's waaaaay to much oil to dissapear in 3 months. unless you drive like a maniac.

      I usually add 1/2 qt after 6 months or 3k miles.
      Iíll admit, I have been driving a bit harder on occasion because of my new exhaust but not constantly on the throttle. I really donít know where it wouldíve gone... I have had my check engine light on for a while for the MAF (See that thread elsewhere) and itís been running rich. Could running rich cause oil to burn faster?


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    14. #82
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Not sure if running rich could make oil consumption worse.

      But I've always been told that an engine will burn more oil if you beat on it.

    15. #83
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      I'm very skeptical of the quality of the oil you had remaining in your car. I used to get a grey sludge buildup under my cap during my worst burns/lowest oil volumes. Take a peak underneath the fill cap. That might have something to do with conventional green castrol i was adding though. I don't think there is anything linear about oil burn either. We know it's worst in the summer above 86 or 88 degrees or whatever. And I'd bet it gets exponentially worse as oil volume decreases as well. There was at least a time I added a quart just to get back to the bottom line on the dipstick like 4k miles after a change.

      There is something about working on cars where you always figure out the worst case scenario before you find out the easy fix for what ends up being a simple problem.

    16. #84
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ThomasR View Post
      I'm very skeptical of the quality of the oil you had remaining in your car. I used to get a grey sludge buildup under my cap during my worst burns/lowest oil volumes. Take a peak underneath the fill cap. That might have something to do with conventional green castrol i was adding though. I don't think there is anything linear about oil burn either. We know it's worst in the summer above 86 or 88 degrees or whatever. And I'd bet it gets exponentially worse as oil volume decreases as well. There was at least a time I added a quart just to get back to the bottom line on the dipstick like 4k miles after a change.

      There is something about working on cars where you always figure out the worst case scenario before you find out the easy fix for what ends up being a simple problem.
      The oil I had put in when I changed it several months ago was Liqui-Moli from FCP Euro. The oil I added today was Castrol Edge high mileage (I know Volvo recommends castrol just not sure what type). I guess I really really need to keep on checking it and not assuming itís fine. Iím just glad I was able to figure it out in the simplest way possible.

      I appreciate all of the help from everyone in the thread even though it ended up being user error here


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    17. #85
      Ok so a few things here:

      #1 - Running conventional in a turbocharged engine is a modern day nono. That is the source of your sludge. It will make more sludge unless you change at LEAST one of two things:

      #2 - You can either change to synthetic, or wait about 60 seconds after you get to your destination before shutting the car off. This lets your turbo cool off, allows everything to cool down before exiting. It will prevent conventional from beginning to coke up from the lack of flow over the bearings as the heat has nowhere to go. Additionally, it will keep your turbo seals and bearings in the best possible condition and prevent the same overheating condition from occurring.

      If you change to both synthetic AND have a cooldown period before shutoff, that is the best possible scenario where you avoid most of your potential problems. This is a trick from the big diesel world to help your equipment last much longer before needing repair.

      #3 - If you grip it and rip it before your car has fully warmed up, you are probably blowing some oil out the tailpipe there. There is always some amount of ring gap until your engine is fully heated and everything is warm. IIRC it is something like .002 or .003" and once the car is heated up, it seals and you get much less blowby. Lookforjoe mentioned this on his high hp build, but the premise is present on all cars with modern day rings.

      #4 - I put 6.5qt in every oil change (5,000 mi). If I am broke and I can't afford to change the oil filter, I just do 6qt. This usually results in the oil line being about 3 or 4mm below the F mark after everything is warmed up and the oil canister and all the block passageways have been filled. On drainout, I usually have lost about 1/2qt total. I commute 120mi/day and the engine lives at 85mph (3200 rpm) so if your car is eating that much oil, consider finding the cause. I should note that I have had this engine since it was brand new, so I am not accounting for an older engine that someone else took care of before it was yours.
      Last edited by avenger09123; 10-29-2020 at 08:39 AM.
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    18. #86
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      Ok so a few things here:

      #1 - Running conventional in a turbocharged engine is a modern day nono. That is the source of your sludge. It will make more sludge unless you change at LEAST one of two things:

      #2 - You can either change to synthetic, or wait about 60 seconds after you get to your destination before shutting the car off. This lets your turbo cool off, allows everything to cool down before exiting. It will prevent conventional from beginning to coke up from the lack of flow over the bearings as the heat has nowhere to go. Additionally, it will keep your turbo seals and bearings in the best possible condition and prevent the same overheating condition from occurring.

      If you change to both synthetic AND have a cooldown period before shutoff, that is the best possible scenario where you avoid most of your potential problems. This is a trick from the big diesel world to help your equipment last much longer before needing repair.

      #3 - If you grip it and rip it before your car has fully warmed up, you are probably blowing some oil out the tailpipe there. There is always some amount of ring gap until your engine is fully heated and everything is warm. IIRC it is something like .002 or .003" and once the car is heated up, it seals and you get much less blowby. Lookforjoe mentioned this on his high hp build, but the premise is present on all cars with modern day rings.

      #4 - I put 6.5qt in every oil change (5,000 mi). If I am broke and I can't afford to change the oil filter, I just do 6qt. This usually results in the oil line being about 3 or 4mm below the F mark after everything is warmed up and the oil canister and all the block passageways have been filled. On drainout, I usually have lost about 1/2qt total. I commute 120mi/day and the engine lives at 85mph (3200 rpm) so if your car is eating that much oil, consider finding the cause. I should note that I have had this engine since it was brand new, so I am not accounting for an older engine that someone else took care of before it was yours.
      I actually have the 2.4i motor, not the T5. Iíve been using full synthetic since purchasing the car due to it being higher mileage anyways. This is really good info though as I plan on potentially buying a C30 in a year so this helps a lot.

      As for the sludge Iím not sure what caused it other than the PO skipping an oil change... moosetech was the one that suggested it as itís related to the PCV system in our cars and can sometimes happen if proper care hasnít been taken in the past.


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    19. #87
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Oil pressure light randomly coming on, oil level fine

      I checked the oil on my car and the dipstick reads similar on both sides.

      This confirms you added enough oil on your car after reinstalling the oil pan.

      Also, just to confirm:

      Does your oil dipstick look the same as this one?

      P/N: 30777500








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      Last edited by Facusan; 10-29-2020 at 04:18 PM.

    20. #88
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
      I checked the oil on my car and the dipstick reads similar on both sides.

      This confirms you added enough oil on your car after reinstalling the oil pan.

      Also, just to confirm:

      Does your oil dipstick look the same as this one?

      P/N: 30777500








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      Yeah my dipstick is the same one pictured.


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    21. #89
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by evy0311 View Post
      Yeah my dipstick is the same one pictured.


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      Good, just asking because I saw a freshly rebuilt diesel engine runaway caused by having the wrong (shorter) dipstick.


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    22. #90
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      OP, do you have any updates???


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    23. #91
      Member evy0311's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
      OP, do you have any updates???


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      Engine has been running fine other than my check engine light (which I have had on for years since I bought the car, thatís another story/thread...). Oil level is also fine, checking it a couple times a week. Everything seems to be normal thankfully


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    24. #92
      Junior Member Facusan's Avatar
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      Nice!, good thing you didnít drop the pan again for nothing.


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    25. #93
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      Quote Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
      Nice!, good thing you didnít drop the pan again for nothing.


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      Definitely, wouldíve been a lot of work for nothing, although I probably wouldíve realized it before dropping it because hardly any oil wouldíve drained... oof.

      Now to solving my mysterious MAF code and high fuel trim...


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