XC70 Rear Shock Absorbers
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    1. #1
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      XC70 Rear Shock Absorbers

      The rear shocks on my 2003 XC70 have lost much of their damping ability for the small stuff, although they still damp larger ride motions well. Taking a quick look at the shock installation, it appears that a spring compressor will be necessary to remove the old units and install the new.

      Is my observation correct? Has anyone had experience doing this job themselves? It really doesn't look too difficult, given a spring compressor and the proper tools.


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    3. #2
      Junior Member EBender1965's Avatar
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      Re: XC70 Rear Shock Absorbers (skchatwin)

      I believe you are correct, while I have not done it. I did look at the VADIS instructions and have pasted them below.

      Replacing the rear spring / shock absorber
      Removal

      Replacing the rear spring / shock absorber
      Remove the spring strut. See Spring struts rear, replacing
      Disassembling the spring strut
      -secure the spring strut in a vise.
      Mark the rubber shim 1 and the spring seat 2. Use a chalk mark 3 to facilitate installation.
      -Compress the spring using the spring clamps 999 5407 . Set the clamps facing each other. Tighten the clamps alternately until the load is relieved from the spring seat
      -remove the nut from the spring strut mounting. Use socket 999 5500 and a 3/8” Torx-wrench as a counterhold.
      Remove
      -the spring seat
      -the spring.


      Installation
      Applies only when replacing springs
      Compress the new spring to a length of approximately 260 mm (10”). Use spring clamps (P/N 9995407).
      -Applies only when replacing springs
      -Remove the rubber shim (1) for the spring. Position the rubber shim on the new spring. Replace the rubber shim if it is damaged
      -Note! The notch (2) in the rubber shim.
      -Install the spring (1) on the shock absorber. Ensure that the end of the spring is correctly seated (2) on the shock absorber.
      Note! The lower end of the spring must be turned in towards the center of the car. (Applies to both sides).
      -Reinstall the spring seat (1) on the rubber shim for the spring (2)
      -check that the mark (3) on the spring seat is in line with the mark (3) on the rubber shim.
      -Install a new nut (1) for the upper mounting for the shock absorber
      -use socket 999 5500 and a 3/8” Torx socket as a counterhold to tighten the nut
      -tighten the nut. Tighten to 60 Nm
      -remove the spring clamps
      -Install the spring strut. See Spring struts rear, replacing .

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    4. #3
      Junior Member volvodad's Avatar
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      Re: XC70 Rear Shock Absorbers (EBender1965)

      It seems to be time for new rear struts on my XC as well. I can get the struts from Nick Bauer at FCP Groton at a reasonable price. My question is, does anyone have any experience with this? Is it obvious how to remove the strut assembly from the car? Can the average mechanic manage the disassembly with a strut spring compressor and common hand tools, or are the Volvo tools needed? Advice is appreciated!
      2014 XC90
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      1998 SL500 1995 Corvette LT1 1980 MGB 1969 Ford Torino CJ 428 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 V10

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    6. #4

      Re: XC70 Rear Shock Absorbers (volvodad)

      I just had my front and rear struts replaced 2 days ago.
      It took the Volvo Dealer 4 hours to complete the install, and another hour for alignment.
      IIRC, there was a special socket that you need to remove the strut mount on top, not sure if you can get that at the local hardware store or not; but it will be wise to research on this tool before you start taking things apart.

      BTW, I also had the strut mounts and rear sway bar end links changed at the same time, now it rides almost as good as new. I thought that since I'm paying an arm and a leg for the labor already, might as well replace those other parts while he's in there.


    7. #5

      Re: XC70 Rear Shock Absorbers (024tnfi)

      here's a photo of the socket i was refering to. good luck!!


    8. #6
      Junior Member b1g1an's Avatar
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      To answer your original question, you don't need to remove the springs to replace the rear shocks so you don't need a spring compressor.

    9. #7
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      Re: XC70 Rear Shock Absorbers (volvodad)

      I tackled the job last Saturday - it's really not too bad of a job provided you have a floor jack, a set of jack stands, an impact wrench, a spring compressor, Torx wrenches (similar in size and shape to allen wrenches), and a large ratcheting cargo strap (10K lb. rated capacity). If you can replace McPhearson struts, you can do this job too.

      Removal of the rear wheels is a must - then remove the mud guards from the suspension. The actual removal of the shock/spring assy is actually fairly simple. There's the lower lower bolt of course. The upper mount is attached with two bolts accessible through the wheel well and one bolt accessible from inside the car just aft of the rear seat back. To get to it, you'll have to remove the forward floorboard from the cargo area and pull up a circular piece of foam sound deadening insulation.

      The one tool you absolutely need is the cargo strap. The rear suspension is preloaded slightly. When you remove the shock assy, the lower control arm will snap upwards a couple of inches. Without the strap, you'll never get the shock back on the lower mounting stud. The cargo strap is hooked to the lower outboard side of each lower control arm, then a lot of tension is applied. This results in the control arms being pulled downwards the appropriate distance. Get the largest strap you can find - I started with a small light duty unit that wouldn't do the job. I had to run to Home Depot for the biggest one they had! The cargo strap procedure may sound makeshift, but it is per VADIS.

      Once the shock assy is removed, mark the relationship of the upper end of the spring with the rubber insulator and spring seat. Then compress the spring like you would do replacing any McPhearson strut.

      You don't need the special socket to loosen the nut at the upper end of the shock mount - that's what the impact wrench is for. If the impact wrench doesn't get the nut all the way off before the shaft starts to spin, there's enough room in the shock mount well for an open end wrench inserted diagonally. Use the open-end wrench to hold the nut, and use the torx wrench to spin the shock absorber shaft until the nut comes off.

      Remove the old shock, insert the new one, reinstall the upper spring seat, tighten the nut (I again use the impact wrench with a lighter setting). Check the nut for security with the open-end wrench and torx wrench. Align all your marks and remove the tension from the spring.

      Assembly from that point is just the reverse of removal. If you've tightened up that cargo strap before removal, then things should just slide into place, however you may need to fine tune the strap tension.

      It's really not that complicated. With all the right tools in place it shouldn't take that long. I had a couple of interuptions when I did the job and it took me about five or six hours to do the shocks and the struts up front.

      Have fun!


    10. #8
      Junior Member volvodad's Avatar
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      Re: XC70 Rear Shock Absorbers (skchatwin)

      Excellent. This answers all of my questions. I think it is important to point out to anyone reading this thread that the design of the P2 XC is quite different than the older "870" models. My shock is definitely inside of the spring and is a more complicated removal than on the older cars. Thanks for your help!
      2014 XC90
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    11. #9
      Senior Member JRL's Avatar
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      Re: XC70 Rear Shock Absorbers (volvodad)

      Also bear in mind that the stock Volvo AWD rear shock is good for about 30K miles.
      After that, it's crap and NO ONE makes a shock except Volvo
      Email: jrl1194 ( at ) AOL (dot) com
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    12. #10
      Junior Member BellevilleV70's Avatar
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      Wow you would think they would last longer than that? I have always thought ours while it handles decent, has a poor rough ride over potholes. What are you you guys basing the need to replace these on? Mine are not leaking or noisy, just I find the ride quite poor.
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    13. #11
      Junior Member volvodad's Avatar
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      Re: (BellevilleV70)

      The back of my XC is quite twitchy when it hits bumps on curves, very unlike a vehicle with IRS. I had the car aligned to eliminate that issue, so I think the problem is that the rear suspension is under-damped, leading to loss of tire contact with the road. I have rocked the car vigorously with the roof rack, and it will continue to rock for a while after I stop suggesting poor shock function, but visually, they look fine. I think the ride could be better, also.
      2014 XC90
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    14. #12

      Re: (volvodad)

      Unless you're well versed at using a spring compressor, this job is best left to a professional. And unless you plan on doing this often, by the time you buy the tools and factor your time in, it likely isn't worth it. (Unless of course your time is worth very little )

    15. #13
      Junior Member jackf's Avatar
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      Re: (Freeworld)

      Quote, originally posted by Freeworld »
      (Unless of course your time is worth very little )

      Or it's your hobby....I'd hate to think what some of my friends wood carvings would be worth -- even at minimum wage for the time invested.

      Some folks just like to work on their cars, aside from the feeling of accomplishment there's a satisfaction in a job done right.

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    16. #14
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      Re: (volvodad)

      I based the need for replacement on ride quality and miles. My car had 102K miles on it when I replaced the shocks & struts. As I mentioned in my first post, the shock & struts handled the big stuff fine, but had little control over the smaller body movements.

      Small bumps and dips would result in exaggerated body movements due to weak rebound damping. Ride control was worse with a full load of passengers. Granted, it wasn’t terrible, but it was bad enough to be annoying. With fresh shocks and struts, the car rides so much better now.


    17. #15
      Senior Member JRL's Avatar
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      Re: (volvodad)

      Quote, originally posted by volvodad »
      I had the car aligned to eliminate that issue, so I think the problem is that the rear suspension is under-damped,.

      Gee, ya think?
      Email: jrl1194 ( at ) AOL (dot) com
      2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak/Tan/Arena, 114K miles. My DD with no plans to sell it anytime soon
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    18. #16
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      Quote Originally Posted by JRL View Post
      Also bear in mind that the stock Volvo AWD rear shock is good for about 30K miles.
      After that, it's crap and NO ONE makes a shock except Volvo
      Quote Originally Posted by BellevilleV70 View Post
      Wow you would think they would last longer than that? I have always thought ours while it handles decent, has a poor rough ride over potholes. What are you you guys basing the need to replace these on? Mine are not leaking or noisy, just I find the ride quite poor.
      30k isn't much at all. Hopefully these have gotten better over the years.

    19. #17
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      xc70 rear shock absorber replacement

      Dear Sir, I need to change the absorberto to my 2006 xc70, some one know a video where this replacement is detailed?

    20. #18
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      Quote Originally Posted by JRL View Post
      Also bear in mind that the stock Volvo AWD rear shock is good for about 30K miles.
      After that, it's crap and NO ONE makes a shock except Volvo
      Sachs seems to make one?
      https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7889...11753-30760056
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    21. #19
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      XC70 Rear Shock Absorbers

      The original Volvo ones are made by sach , the label has both there name and part number along with “Volvo “ and the Volvo part number.
      But the numbers have been superseded. And some sites list them all as the same.

      Just be very careful that the ones you get, are for the V70XC not the normal V70 AWD or S60AWD. As they are similar.

      Also it is probably worth getting springs as these cars are getting older. Watch for misinformation on part numbers again.

      Volvo is the best bet. But not cheep.

      The IPD listed ones look ok. But use there instructions to see if it is ok.
      Make sure that your car doesn’t have 4C ( switch in front of gear leaver) or self leaver shocks.
      Last edited by rogerb; 01-13-2020 at 02:03 PM.
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    22. #20
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      Quote Originally Posted by rogerb View Post
      The original Volvo ones are made by sach , the label has both there name and part number along with “Volvo “ and the Volvo part number.
      But the numbers have been superseded. And some sites list them all as the same.

      Just be very careful that the ones you get, are for the V70XC not the normal V70 AWD or S60AWD. As they are similar.

      Also it is probably worth getting springs as these cars are getting older. Watch for misinformation on part numbers again.

      Volvo is the best bet. But not cheep.
      IPD shows that shock I linked is the right shock for XC70 and AWD V70... Is it wrong?
      The springs are different, though.. ('cause I need one of those and can't find a non-Volvo spring for my V70 AWD, the Volvo one is ~$150)
      2000 C70 HPT 5 spd; ~140k miles IPD high-flow air filter; Snaab high-flow Intake; Snaab short throw shifter.
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    23. #21
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      I would of thought the XC shock is longer. But I have never put two next to each each other to check. It would take a bit of time studying VIDA , to be sure.
      VIDA does list that number for S60 2002 to 2009
      As well as XC70 all years of P2. But doesn’t mention AWD V70.
      Check there fitting guide to your cars code numbers.

      Also on my AWD the springs were different on each side and had different part numbers, Sachs were the only after market that listed left and right springs different, most just two of the same
      Saffron V70R 1998 Auto FWD,
      Silver 2006 V70 D5 manual FWD, fixing slowly.
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    24. #22
      Senior Member ScottishBrick's Avatar
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      Volvo Shock Absorber - Sachs 30760056

      https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...11-753#fitment
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    25. #23
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      Quote Originally Posted by skchatwin View Post
      I tackled the job last Saturday - it's really not too bad of a job provided you have a floor jack, a set of jack stands, an impact wrench, a spring compressor, Torx wrenches (similar in size and shape to allen wrenches), and a large ratcheting cargo strap (10K lb. rated capacity). If you can replace McPhearson struts, you can do this job too.

      Removal of the rear wheels is a must - then remove the mud guards from the suspension. The actual removal of the shock/spring assy is actually fairly simple. There's the lower lower bolt of course. The upper mount is attached with two bolts accessible through the wheel well and one bolt accessible from inside the car just aft of the rear seat back. To get to it, you'll have to remove the forward floorboard from the cargo area and pull up a circular piece of foam sound deadening insulation.

      The one tool you absolutely need is the cargo strap. The rear suspension is preloaded slightly. When you remove the shock assy, the lower control arm will snap upwards a couple of inches. Without the strap, you'll never get the shock back on the lower mounting stud. The cargo strap is hooked to the lower outboard side of each lower control arm, then a lot of tension is applied. This results in the control arms being pulled downwards the appropriate distance. Get the largest strap you can find - I started with a small light duty unit that wouldn't do the job. I had to run to Home Depot for the biggest one they had! The cargo strap procedure may sound makeshift, but it is per VADIS.

      Once the shock assy is removed, mark the relationship of the upper end of the spring with the rubber insulator and spring seat. Then compress the spring like you would do replacing any McPhearson strut.

      You don't need the special socket to loosen the nut at the upper end of the shock mount - that's what the impact wrench is for. If the impact wrench doesn't get the nut all the way off before the shaft starts to spin, there's enough room in the shock mount well for an open end wrench inserted diagonally. Use the open-end wrench to hold the nut, and use the torx wrench to spin the shock absorber shaft until the nut comes off.

      Remove the old shock, insert the new one, reinstall the upper spring seat, tighten the nut (I again use the impact wrench with a lighter setting). Check the nut for security with the open-end wrench and torx wrench. Align all your marks and remove the tension from the spring.

      Assembly from that point is just the reverse of removal. If you've tightened up that cargo strap before removal, then things should just slide into place, however you may need to fine tune the strap tension.

      It's really not that complicated. With all the right tools in place it shouldn't take that long. I had a couple of interuptions when I did the job and it took me about five or six hours to do the shocks and the struts up front.

      Have fun!

      I second the above, the ratchet strap (not a cheap, low-strength one) is super, super key. You will struggle for quite a while if you don't have a solid strap on hand. The rest of the job is easy, just don't do anything stupid with the spring compressors.
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    26. #24
      Member Antherzoll's Avatar
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      To pull down the rear arms you can use the emergency jack. Works amazingly well.
      2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 145k mi

    27. #25
      Member Antherzoll's Avatar
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      ...you can also hook the bump stop plate if you don't like using it against the body. Having both side off the ground is critical as the swaybar will fight you.
      2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 145k mi

    28. #26
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      Quote Originally Posted by Antherzoll View Post


      ...you can also hook the bump stop plate if you don't like using it against the body. Having both side off the ground is critical as the swaybar will fight you.
      Now THAT picture I really could have used a couple of weeks back. That is brilliant!!!
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    29. #27
      Member spiked60's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Antherzoll View Post


      ...you can also hook the bump stop plate if you don't like using it against the body. Having both side off the ground is critical as the swaybar will fight you.
      Hell yes, after swapping rear springs multiple times to try and get ride height sorted out, this works wonders.

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