I tackled the job last Saturday - it's really not too bad of a job provided you have a floor jack, a set of jack stands, an impact wrench, a spring compressor, Torx wrenches (similar in size and shape to allen wrenches), and a large ratcheting cargo strap (10K lb. rated capacity). If you can replace McPhearson struts, you can do this job too.
Removal of the rear wheels is a must - then remove the mud guards from the suspension. The actual removal of the shock/spring assy is actually fairly simple. There's the lower lower bolt of course. The upper mount is attached with two bolts accessible through the wheel well and one bolt accessible from inside the car just aft of the rear seat back. To get to it, you'll have to remove the forward floorboard from the cargo area and pull up a circular piece of foam sound deadening insulation.
The one tool you absolutely need is the cargo strap. The rear suspension is preloaded slightly. When you remove the shock assy, the lower control arm will snap upwards a couple of inches. Without the strap, you'll never get the shock back on the lower mounting stud. The cargo strap is hooked to the lower outboard side of each lower control arm, then a lot of tension is applied. This results in the control arms being pulled downwards the appropriate distance. Get the largest strap you can find - I started with a small light duty unit that wouldn't do the job. I had to run to Home Depot for the biggest one they had! The cargo strap procedure may sound makeshift, but it is per VADIS.
Once the shock assy is removed, mark the relationship of the upper end of the spring with the rubber insulator and spring seat. Then compress the spring like you would do replacing any McPhearson strut.
You don't need the special socket to loosen the nut at the upper end of the shock mount - that's what the impact wrench is for. If the impact wrench doesn't get the nut all the way off before the shaft starts to spin, there's enough room in the shock mount well for an open end wrench inserted diagonally. Use the open-end wrench to hold the nut, and use the torx wrench to spin the shock absorber shaft until the nut comes off.
Remove the old shock, insert the new one, reinstall the upper spring seat, tighten the nut (I again use the impact wrench with a lighter setting). Check the nut for security with the open-end wrench and torx wrench. Align all your marks and remove the tension from the spring.
Assembly from that point is just the reverse of removal. If you've tightened up that cargo strap before removal, then things should just slide into place, however you may need to fine tune the strap tension.
It's really not that complicated. With all the right tools in place it shouldn't take that long. I had a couple of interuptions when I did the job and it took me about five or six hours to do the shocks and the struts up front.