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    1. #71
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      Re: Another Squealer -What should I do?-

      GoBerserk - Great research and this should help us DIYers... how much was the part? I wonder if the diaphram issue is the only major problem with this design or if the whole part is flawed. If so, I wonder if there is something we can do to mod it...

      Oldman - Question regarding the catch can, if its installed after the "PCV", we'd still have a problem with the diaphram right? I do think its probably a good failsafe though for prevention on the PCV failure.

      Wish - Did you get your car back, what was the diagnosis?


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    3. #72
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      Re: Another Squealer -What should I do?- (mattdogg02)

      It was about $140 from the dealer. That included the seals. Another dealer had quoted me $115ish and then another $16 or so for the seals. But Dealer #1 said the seals are included in the one part number, so I don't know what parts Dealer #2 was quoting me for. I know I ordered the right part from Dealer #1 because I had the darn thing with me. I also got a new oil filter $9 and a new intake manifold gasket $40ish. But normally you don't have to take off the intake manifold.

    4. #73
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      Re: Another Squealer -What should I do?- (mattdogg02)

      yep will still have the problem but there would be no seal failures etc..

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    6. #74
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      Re: Another Squealer -What should I do?- (Oldman)

      Very true, I agree its something that would be beneficial...

    7. #75
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      Re: Another Squealer -What should I do?- (mattdogg02)

      I dont have my car with me because I had to go back to school. However my parents have picked up the car, ill post the work order on friday.

    8. #76
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      Done!

      Yesterday my parts came in and I put her back together. It went surprisingly well. Turns out a new Oil Trap (this is what Volvo calls what we've been calling the Oil Filter Housing) comes with a brand new oil filter already installed.

      New in the box.

      That's pretty!

      Hosed

      After I got it back together it took a few moments of cranking for the fuel pressure to build and then she fired right up. The "Running Lean" code I had before is gone now and hasn't come back in 100 miles of driving.

      Here's a "gotcha" though: There are two holes on the front of the oil trap. One's for mounting the oil dipstick and the other is for holding a wire loom clamp. They're not threaded! The screws are self-tapping! That seems a little odd to me. And it's a little bit of a pain getting them started when the unit is in the car already. So it may be wise to tap those holes with the unit out of the car. Also, if you've taken them out and didn't label them the long one is for the dipstick and the short one is for the cable clamp.

      Also, for tightening torques "Snug" actually means:
      Intake Manifold, upper, plastic: 10Nm (7ft-lbs)
      Intake Manifold, lower, aluminum: 19Nm (14ft-lbs)
      Oil Trap: 16Nm (12ft-lbs)
      Oil Plug: 38Nm (28ft-lbs)

      If I were to do this again I wouldn't take the intake manifold off. If you can get the airbox out without dropping the radiator then good - do that. But if not I think there is enough room to do the work with the airbox pushed as far to the driver's side as possible. Working room would be restricted. But it's only 6 bolts, two hoses and one electrical connector.


    9. #77
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      Re: Done! (GoBerserk)

      I don't want to dig back so what was the price?

      And I've been thinking about failure on turbo engines, if one of the reed valves fail, then it would allow boost to ballon the diaphram and cause it to rip and leak AND it would blow out the engine seals...


    10. #78
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      Re: Done! (Oldman)

      The part was $143 (including seals and new filter already inside).

    11. #79
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      S40 whistle noise, oil cap and dipstick sucking air - filter housing / oil separator

      2005 Volvo S40 T5. I had the same thing happen to me driving back home this weekend.. It sounded like almost like a muffled siren under the hood... After reading the forums, I pulled up the dipstick and oil cap, and surely enough the sound stopped.. They were both sucking alot of air INTO the engine though.

      I took a closer look today, and unmounted the air filter box but couldnt get it out.. It is hitting the radiator fan shroud in the front and the intake on the back.. I wasn't ready to pull the intake off right then, but I could move the air box to the drivers side.. I think with that I may have enough room to unmount the oil filter housing, 2 hoses, and the electrical harness.. I'm going to give that a shot this weekend and will take some pics.

      I've read a bunch of posts about this -- some people call it the oil separator, oil trap, flame stop, etc. This is the best thread yet. Thanks GoBerserk for the info. I'm going to give it a shot....



    12. #80
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      it happen to me not to long ago done it myself hoses box and clamps all under 250

    13. #81
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      Re: (jwheels54)

      Did you take off the manifold and air filter box, or were you able to get in there without having to? I'm hoping I can do it without having to remove the manifold, and just move the air box over to the drivers side..

    14. #82
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      no i didn't all changed out in an hour or so no probs after i got all the parts everything is sold seperately hoses box and even clamps but don't bother with wasting your money on volvo clamps regular screw clamps will work just fine and are easier to instal i thought there would be clearence issues with screw clamps so i ordered the volvo clamps and i couldn't even get the pliers down on the clamps to tighten them so i tried the others and no clearence issues or anything

    15. #83
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      Re: (jwheels54)

      thanks guys. i was able to replace the oil filter housing and that did the trick. it actually wasn't that bad at all. i couldn't get the air filter box completely out, but there was enough room on the drivers side to just push it over a bit to access the oil filter housing. also, I didn't take the intake off either.

    16. #84
      Found this article, dont know if its relevant or not..

      "Volvo Crankshaft/Camshaft Seal Oil Leaks

      Possible oil leaks around the crankshaft, camshaft or other engine gaskets may be due to a clogged flame trap in the PCV system. This does not seem to happen on turbocharged models.

      The plastic Y-shaped flame trap is located in the PCV apparatus and may become clogged if engine oil is infrequently changed. Low grade or inexpensive oil may also cause stoppage which allows internal crankcase pressure to build, thus forcing an oil leak. In some cases, the pressure will force the oil dipstick to pop out.

      A clogged flame trap should either be cleaned or replaced, says Volvo, and normal maintenance calls for routine cleaning of the trap every 15,000 miles.

      The AERA Technical Committee "

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    17. #85
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      Re: (goddamnswede)

      humm, so maybe it would be good to have a list of known failures and the type of engine oil. I change my own oil since day one and us either Amsoil or MobilOne. I would guess that most / all these failures are using cheap dealer sluge pretending to be oil and even if the customer paid the extra price they still got dino oil pretending to be synthetic.. aka Syntec.

    18. #86
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      Re: (Oldman)

      I doubt any of us here use cheap oil on our cars. I would suspect either dealer grade or better. Unless the dealer calls their own oil they fill our cars with low grade. I've been using AMSOil 10w30 since 5000 miles and even send my oil in to BlackStone for analysis. I got the squealer at 42k. I'm guessing they don't want to own up to the design flaw.

      I saw that this can be cleaned. I would to extend the life of the housing so I don't have to cough up $140 every 40k miles. So to the ones that replaced their housing, did you see any damage to any parts? Can it be cleaned and replaced?

      2005 S40 T5 BSR Stage 3

    19. #87
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      Re: (volvoNB)

      um dealer grade is the cheap oil even the dealer upgrade syntec is just more expensive sludge.

    20. #88

      Re: Done! (GoBerserk)

      What is the part number?

    21. #89
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      Re: Done! (carlos.negros)

      i took mine of, and it seems that if i try to force the top cap off it edges would have to be bent or broken off so im not sure that it would be possible to repair it...
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    22. #90
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      Had the same problem, same sound, same test, same results... took it to Volvo, car was out of warranty but because they recalled for this ... they fixed it for free.
      Now, I have a problem where the left side of engine is making a real loud ratteling noise, like a chain is loose or something like that.

      Interestingly enough, when I took the timing belt Shroud off, there was a rubber and metal gasked in the channel where the belt flows through, the plastic shroud, and a ball bearing on the top of the engine. Both were trapped inside the plastic Shroud. Very strange.

      Also, the belt is realllllly loose.

    23. #91
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      Bad tensioner pulley. Failed completely. by the sound of it. I would advise to not drive it, and tow it for repair. It's not necessary to use a dealer for this job.
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    24. #92
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      Quote Originally Posted by goddamnswede View Post
      This does not seem to happen on turbocharged models. The plastic Y-shaped flame trap is located in the PCV apparatus and may become clogged if engine oil is infrequently changed.
      "and may become clogged if engine oil is infrequently changed."

      Yeah, like the stupid 7500 mile interval Volvo recommends. Totally assinine.

    25. #93
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      Lightbulb

      Quote Originally Posted by robergfoll View Post
      Had the same problem, same sound, same test, same results... took it to Volvo, car was out of warranty but because they recalled for this ... they fixed it for free.
      Now, I have a problem where the left side of engine is making a real loud ratteling noise, like a chain is loose or something like that.

      Interestingly enough, when I took the timing belt Shroud off, there was a rubber and metal gasked in the channel where the belt flows through, the plastic shroud, and a ball bearing on the top of the engine. Both were trapped inside the plastic Shroud. Very strange.

      Also, the belt is realllllly loose.
      Good Catch - On the Noise ,more Persons need to listen to their Automobiles , seems We have had a couple that were Way - Out of Warranty , and Done for Free !
      Also, We have had a few that had their Own Mechanic Fix it , and then sent Volvo the Bill, which they got Paid in Full !

      Furthermore - Everyone should clean out there Motor once in awhile , I simply run some
      Marvel Mystery Oil 3-6 Oz. - in the Oil , just before Changing - say 50-120 miles depending on How long it's been and How Dirty .

      In Fact One Guy - it actually Cured the Issue . Read : ( Keep It -just- Clean It ) .

      My T5 sounds so Good .
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    26. #94
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      For anyone looking at this thread there is a good directions summary over at this thread.

      https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...17#post1736017

      At the end of this thread are some of my lessons learned based on the directions, which were, overall, very good.

      Thanks to everyone who posted.

    27. #95
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      Quote Originally Posted by GoBerserk View Post
      Well I decided to take apart the oil filter housing to see what the deal was. It's kinda hard to describe. I imagine it will be hard to understand without the parts in your hands to play with - but I'll do my best

      Here are the ports on the block again. I numbered them starting with the highest up.

      Looking down into the oil filter section. You can see light shining through the ports which I numbered corresponding to the ones on the block.

      Where does the oil go to/end up from #4 in these pictures?
      2006 V50 T5 AWD M66: 19" Heico's w/ Hankook & ISC Coilovers
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    28. #96
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      Bump. hoping someone (ahem....PCZ) can verify where the oil goes to from route #4....
      2006 V50 T5 AWD M66: 19" Heico's w/ Hankook & ISC Coilovers
      IPD TCV, skidplate VIVA CBV, Prosport boost & AFR gauges, 6000k hid
      ELEVATE: Turbo Pipe, RSB, autotech III, body kit, intake. IC piping
      EST: grille, Exhaust, DP, BELL FMIC Streetunit trans mount.

    29. #97
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      Just called Volvo on my 06 V50 2.4i and I am covered. It is an "extended warranty" that is good for 10 years and 125k miles. Just as an FYI for anyone else who runs across this.

    30. #98
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      Although mine isn't squealing yet, I lifted off the intake to inspect the timing belt, and found some oil residue in the intake ports. Is this a typical amount of oil, or am I just paranoid after reading all these PCV valve threads? I don't remember there being this much residue a year ago when I changed the spark plugs. My car has 87,000 miles on it.
      Last edited by hankedan000; 05-18-2015 at 12:53 PM. Reason: fixed video link
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    31. #99
      I have a stupid question: has anyone fixed this by adding a generic PCV between the oil trap and the intake to take up the slack for the broken part?

      I have an 05 V50 with 65k miles and mine just went. I bought the part and hose for like $288 from the dealer. Is there a simpler way?

    32. #100
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      05 s40 T5

      I recently got the whistle that goes away with the dipstick pull, I replaced just the pcv diaphragm. The whistle is gone but I still can't get the 2187 code to stay cleared. It has the newer hoses on it not the accordian style of the earlier ones. Does this mean I need to replace the whole assembly? Any input greatly appreciated.
      Last edited by tjsilva; 11-20-2019 at 03:01 PM.

    33. #101
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      Quote Originally Posted by tjsilva View Post
      I recently got the whistle that goes away with the dipstick pull, I replaced just the pcv diaphragm. The whistle is gone but I still can't get the 2187 code to stay cleared. It has the newer hoses on it not the accordian style of the earlier ones. Does this mean I need to replace the whole assembly? Any input greatly appreciated.
      I'm also in this situation any help would be appreciated

      Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

    34. #102
      Quote Originally Posted by Bonkers30 View Post
      I'm also in this situation any help would be appreciated

      Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
      Unplug the electrical connector that goes to the PCV box. If the code stays away, it means the PTC Resistor has burned out and the entire box will need to be replaced eventually, it isn't a vital sensor to anything in particular.
      2006 Volvo S40 AWD T5 M66 - Dusty Rusty
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    35. #103
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      Quote Originally Posted by avenger09123 View Post
      Unplug the electrical connector that goes to the PCV box. If the code stays away, it means the PTC Resistor has burned out and the entire box will need to be replaced eventually, it isn't a vital sensor to anything in particular.
      OK well I unplugged the sensor and the lean code is gone. Unfortunately now I have random misfire codes. I have changed the spark plugs with volvo brand replacements and still getting the codes, and rough at idle, seems like it wants to die but doesn't, on acceleration seems fine. Could this be caused by the pcv oil filter box as well?

    36. #104
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      Quote Originally Posted by tjsilva View Post
      OK well I unplugged the sensor and the lean code is gone. Unfortunately now I have random misfire codes. I have changed the spark plugs with volvo brand replacements and still getting the codes, and rough at idle, seems like it wants to die but doesn't, on acceleration seems fine. Could this be caused by the pcv oil filter box as well?

      Replaced the whole assembly and no more misfires or phantom codes.

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