Any tips on removing the interior door panel?
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    1. #1
      Member jstro's Avatar
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      Any tips on removing the interior door panel?

      Something inside my driver side door is rattling and I need ro remove the door panel to investigate. I have VADIS and it shows 2 screws and 8 clips, holding on the door panel. I have already purchased replacement clips in case the existing ones get broken.

      My question is how you go about removing the existing plastic clips holding the door panel on? Do you just use brute force, is there a special tool, or can you just drill out the old clips?

      I really want to avoid damaging the door panel

      Thanks in advance to anyone that can help me out here

      Gone

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    3. #2
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      Re: Any tips on removing the interior door panel? (jstro)

      The plastic clips have a small pin in the center. Use a nail punch or a finish nail and push the pin in about 1/4" and the clip will release. I just took my door panel off and was able to reuse all the clips. Pull the pins out past the clip cover about the same amount and then push them flush to lock back in.

      The two screws are inside the door handle under a plastic cover. You can then pull the door out from the bottom a little and lift it up and away. There is not a lot of slack in the wiring, so you will have to hold the door and disconnect the wires.

      Good luck.


    4. #3
      Member jstro's Avatar
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      Re: Any tips on removing the interior door panel? (S60NV)

      Thanks, sounds simple enough

      I appreciate the advice

      Gone

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    6. #4
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      Re: Any tips on removing the interior door panel? (jstro)

      Hope it helps. Thanks to the nice folks here and their posts, I was able to fix my door handle without going to the dealer. I had the door panel off, the connecting rod between the outside handle and the lock mechanism reconnected, and the panel back on in one hour. Good luck.

    7. #5
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      Re: Any tips on removing the interior door panel? (jstro)

      I ditto with what was said above......great advice....

      My thoughts, I just recently went into my S60's door panels to replace the "fake" wood trim pieces to the R "aluminum" trim pieces....successfully I might add and it looks "Marvelooouss" lol.

      Anyway my experience showed me that there are three vital tools that are helpful in removing the door panels....

      1) IPD makes a "bone" tool which sells for like $5.00 or $6.00 and it is a hard/soft type of plastic in the form of a wide knife....essentially this tool has a sharp enough point to seperate the "door handle" which has a seam which is meant to be split apart....I would attack this seam from the side of it that is towards the door so that when the door is closed and you are looking at your handle you wouldn't see any scratch marks persay, if you sit in your front seat and look at the handle and the seam you will see what I mean that way if you make a "boo boo" lol it won't be noticeable....many people probably try screw drivers or knives but these tools are sharp enough to mar the plastic as that is what metal typically does this "bone" tool works very well and is soft enough that you would be hard pressed to cause a "mar".....infact most of your volvo techs have this tool in their tool chest.

      2) IPD makes another tool that sells for $6.50 part #T80645 and is called a Door Panel Upholstery Tool. It's funny I just said the bone tool is plastic and this tool uses a "metal" end on it....oh well...I was skeptical when I first got it....but it actually works very very very well....it's designed to get between the "round tabs" that the poster above mentions and the actual door panel if you are unable to remove the tabs by prying them out with your finger nails persay. I only had one door panel what was difficult to "pry" the tabs out and that was my rear passenger door panel but had I not had the tool I would have been sunk....So perhaps you won't need this but if you have difficulty prying the tabs out you will wish you had it....Furthermore without the "bone" tool I wouldn't even attempt to pry/seperate the door handle without major fear of maring the plasic parts so...if you are waiting for the "bone" tool anyway you might as well invest in this one as well. I did use some thin packing foam against my metal door frame and then placing the upholstery tool against it and then pried the tabs out....it will all make sense if you find you are in need of assistance in prying....as I said above only one of my door panels was stubborn enough to have to use the tool.

      #3 Instead of a nail punch or a sharp object to push on the "pins" of the round tabs I decided upon using a 5/16" (you can verify whether it's a 5/16" or a 3/16") ball end allen wrench....the ball end is great for making sure that you don't puncture the pin causing you to perhaps "mar" it....


      As for the door handle itself....you should know that the handle (I am talking about the plastic 6" or so long handle that you use to shut the door or hold on to open the door (not the door lever that you pull to release the door to open) consists of two pieces there is a plastic piece that needs to be seperated or split apart to be able to get to a nut that firmly seats the panel to the door frame. You will definitely need to pry this off....and as I attempted to state above I would "attack" the seam to begin to wedge the bone tool into from the back side of the door handle the area that you wouldn't see when the door is closed and you are sitting in the seat....and as I said previously this will make sense if you simply sit in your car close your door and visualize how the handle must be seperated. Once you have seperated this plastic piece from the door handle then you will need a socket with an extension to remove the nut that is attached to the protruding bolt which will assist you in removing the door panel once you remove the round tabs that fasten the door as well to the metal frame.

      As for the round tabs, they each have a center pin and by pushing the pins in with some force ....they will "click" or "snap" when you have pushed them far enough....they are meant to be pushed as the poster above stated....it takes a bit of force but not too much....once you reach this click/stop spot that is the position at which point they are to be "pried" or pulled from the door panel. Once removed, then you simply continuing pulling the pin through the round tab and reinserting them back into position to refasten when you are ready to reaply the door panel to the door. When you are ready to "refasten" these round tabs which attaches your door panel to the metal frame, make sure that you use enough pressure with your hand around the hole of the tab you are reapplying, Once you have applied enough pressure with your left hand then take one of your tabs with the pin protruding out and reinsert it into the hole, once the tab is seated firmly againest the panel then push the "pin" into the round tab until once again it is flush and go on to the next to the next until they are all refastened. You really shouldn't break any of these round tabs or their pins while working with them. If you carefully look at your door panel before beginning the procedure and how everything is fastened then you will have a great idea that your work is properly completed when finished....plus you have your other front door panel to compare it to anyway.....

      You will also need to remove the plastic trim piece from the mirror location it's a triangular piece it will need to be "pried" off as well, using once again the bone piece. It is held on by three 1/4" protrusions that look also like pins that "snap" into a receiving plastic plug hole. If by chance while removing this trim piece you discover that one of the pins was broken off, don't "Fret" the trim piece which also includes the black receiving plug hole costs only $6.10 to replace....(speaking from experience...lol)

      Once you have removed the door handle half plastic piece, the 7 round tabs and the mirror location triangular plastic piece you will find that the door panel is ready to be removed from it's location. Experience has shown me that you should not attempt to roll down the window while the door panel is removed (I found this out personally) You will want to "naturally" roll down your window because it will allow for more 'head room in looking behind the panel while it remains attached by the wiring...but I assure you don't give in to this "natural tendency" as there is a greater chance of causing the window to come out of it's track while the door panel is removed which could lead to other potential 'nightmares" notice I said "could lead" not that it will necessarily do so, if you find that you MUST lower the window while working on this project manipulate the window slowly while watching carefully that it remains in it's proper track both while going up and down when the door panel is removed. If it were me having already paid for a fix to ONE of my windows (lol) I would leave the window in the up position until the project is finished.

      As the poster above states indeed there are wires that can be detached....while doing my work I removed only one speaker wire it will be obvious which one because it's the "tautest" one....and by releasing it you will be able to have more room to see....but the others I always left connected...one of them is to the "computer" which is an $400.00 part if it gets messed up....it's a no no to me...lol....so I didn't disconnect it....then there is a another cable that is attached to the door handle and it "seemed" like it would have been a pain to remove....perhaps you will discover differently so I didn't remove it either. So unlike the poster above while I removed my "fake" wood trim pieces my door panel stayed pretty much attached, I simply found an appropriately sized card board box to rest the panel on while it was in limbo. I will say that in doing the door panels that the front doors are bit larger panels obviously as compared to the rear door panels and thus found that having four hands was much easier than I would have found only two hands to be. So my point is I would think if you have access to a buddy with an additional two hands might be beneficial....is it an absolute necessity....that's your call.

      All in all this is not a totally difficult job...just one requiring a bit of patience and GOOD lighting as well....with some appropriate tools.

      Now after saying all of this.....I am really curious what could be rattling....as having the experience of removing the door panel already...there really isn't much in there to rattle....there are two plastic blue pieces that are interior to your window mechanism that your window glass rests on to go up and down and each of those plastic pieces are held on with a cotter type pin keeping the plastic pieces on....it might be that something within that set up is beginning to fail...but I am really curious what is causing your rattling within your door????? So when you find out please post....

      I hope some of this helps....

      Regards,

      Tim


      Modified by TIMPREA at 4:19 PM 2-19-2008


      Modified by TIMPREA at 4:23 PM 2-19-2008


    8. #6
      Member jstro's Avatar
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      Re: Any tips on removing the interior door panel? (TIMPREA)

      Thanks for the tips, I removed the door panel and tightened the torx bits that hold the handle on and it seems to have cured the rattle. Removing hte two connectors that went to the power window controls as well as the mechanical cable that opens the door was pretty easy once I figured out where to press to get them to release

      Thanks again for the advice and I do actually have a couple of the IPD bone tools which work great to keep from marring the interior

      Gone

    9. #7
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      thanks

      This worked perfectly finishing nail tapped into the push pin on an 2006 xc70 worked out. Great idea - thanks!






      Quote Originally Posted by S60NV View Post
      The plastic clips have a small pin in the center. Use a nail punch or a finish nail and push the pin in about 1/4" and the clip will release. I just took my door panel off and was able to reuse all the clips. Pull the pins out past the clip cover about the same amount and then push them flush to lock back in.

      The two screws are inside the door handle under a plastic cover. You can then pull the door out from the bottom a little and lift it up and away. There is not a lot of slack in the wiring, so you will have to hold the door and disconnect the wires.

      Good luck.


    10. #8
      Member LloydDobler's Avatar
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      You can get bone tool kits pretty much anywhere, I have this one and it's awesome. Really tough non marring plastic with a couple sharp edges to work into narrower gaps. http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B...ilpage_o05_s00
      2003 C70 T5M Convertible - Eibachs, Koni FSDs, Enkei RSF5s, OBX downpipe, Snabb intake, RIP kit, & drop-in intercooler, Quaife LSD, 19T, Green Giants, 22 psi Hilton tune.
      2006 V70 2.5T - Ice White - Oak Arena, (almost) bone stock daily driver.
      1966 122s - Collectible project, restoration and many mods on the way.
      2005 V50 T5 AWD - Daughter's first car. No mods unless she does 'em herself.

    11. #9
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      Might have damaged door panel clips...?

      (I know thread is old...but here goes anyway)
      Firstly , thanks for this fantastic information above.
      I was replacing a side mirror on an XC70 2006 and needed to remove the interior door panel, but when it came to removing the door clips I had some trouble. When I pressed in on the clip, I did hear a pop on some, on others I pushed the small screwdriver head thru the plastic creating a small hole (!), and some wouldn't budge at all.... I was able to pry them all out BUT some came out with the long black plastic sleeve attached..... others just came out as a single pop screw.
      My question is, should I replace (or is it possible to replace) the ones that came out with the sleeve with new parts...I did get everything back on, some popped in easily and one or two were really hard to get back in so I ended up hammering them in.....
      Door feels solid now, I don't think anything is loose but I'd like to avoid problems down the road..
      Thanks,
      As73

    12. #10

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      Quote Originally Posted by As73 View Post
      (I know thread is old...but here goes anyway)
      Firstly , thanks for this fantastic information above.
      I was replacing a side mirror on an XC70 2006 and needed to remove the interior door panel, but when it came to removing the door clips I had some trouble. When I pressed in on the clip, I did hear a pop on some, on others I pushed the small screwdriver head thru the plastic creating a small hole (!), and some wouldn't budge at all.... I was able to pry them all out BUT some came out with the long black plastic sleeve attached..... others just came out as a single pop screw.
      My question is, should I replace (or is it possible to replace) the ones that came out with the sleeve with new parts...I did get everything back on, some popped in easily and one or two were really hard to get back in so I ended up hammering them in.....
      Door feels solid now, I don't think anything is loose but I'd like to avoid problems down the road..
      Thanks,
      As73
      Following as I have a few that will need to be replaced as well.

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