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SPA XC90 DIY Oil Change with pics

150K views 299 replies 81 participants last post by  Garfunkgrin 
#1 · (Edited)
SPA XC90 DIY Oil Change with pics, UOA

I did an oil change on our 2018 XC90 at 5k miles, these steps and pics should apply for any 2016/2017/2018/2019 vehicle.
[This thread is for those interested in doing the oil change, not intended to start a holy war. Head over to BITOG for that :D]

See Post 36 for UOA! (Used Oil Analysis)

Materials:

Filter
(Comes with new crush washer, two rubber o-rings for filter housing and one o-ring on filter itself)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W4DSCFG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wrench
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0120RYAS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oil (Available from Walmart at a very good price and occasionally goes on sale at Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKJQS2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tools:
  • 17mm hex wrench
  • T30 Torx driver (T27 also fits)
  • T40 Torx driver or 6mm Allen

Volvo Oil Recommendation:

NOTE: Volvo now specifies 0W-20 for their SPA vehicles regardless of what is shown in the owner's manual. Oil must meet Volvo spec RBS0-2AE.



Steps:
  • Loosen oil cap under the hood
  • Remove the skid plate (10 T30 Torx screws, plus two spring loaded inserts; T27 also fits)
  • Remove the oil drain plug (17mm hex bolt)
  • Drain oil into suitable container
  • Replace the drain bolt with new crush washer, tighten slightly past 'snug'
  • Optionally remove the T40/6mm bolt from bottom of filter housing (to drain initial oil in filter) [Either T40 Torx or 6mm Allen wrench will fit]
  • Remove the filter housing with the Volvo oil wrench
  • Replace the filter within the housing
  • Replace the large o-ring on the housing
  • Replace the small o-ring on the T40/Allen bolt (bottom of filter housing) [If you removed the bolt]
  • Apply oil to all o-rings!
  • Replace the T40/6mm bolt [if you removed it]
  • Screw in the filter & housing back into engine, I had to use the wrench again. Do not tighten very much! Let the o-ring do the work.
  • Replace skid plate
  • Fill engine with 6.2qt of specified oil [Note: 2016-2017 is 6.2qt; 2018 and newer are 5.9 qt]

Service light reset:


Volvo oil filter wrench


Removing T30 screw, holding the skid plate


Drain bolt location, middle of pic


Removing oil drain bolt


Oil draining
(I recycled it, no whales or dolphins died...)


The oil filter housing


Removing the bolt from oil filter housing, T40 Torx or 6mm Allen will work


Removing the oil filter housing


Old oil filter within housing


Oil filter


Oil filter components


T40 Torx driver, supposedly it's actually a 6mm Allen bolt


Filter bottom bolt and o-ring


Location of large o-ring on filter housing


New filter installed in housing


Drain bolt with new crush washer installed


Installing filter housing



All done!
 
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#84 ·
Thank you. I will be sure to disconnect the breather hose next time. I had the engine cover off to see wth was going on. Thanks

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#86 ·
Me too [emoji106]

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#87 ·
Me three [emoji106]

Certainly will use the free scheduled services, but always enjoy doing my own PM (preventative maintenance)
 
#98 ·
Completed the messiest oil change ever. Again, note that the oil shoots out "vs pour out" of the oil pan. More oil comes out of the oil cartridge housing.

Special thanks to stick_shift for doing this thread with pics.

Very sarcastic thanks to the past 3 free oil change dealer techs (could be the same dealer techs) who seemingly used an impact wrench to over tighten the oil filter cartridge housing vs doing the 25 Nm that is written on the freakin cannister! And also a very special thanks for not putting these 2 clips back which cost over $4 EACH. You have once again reconfirmed why I should never go to the dealer to get any of my cars worked on. I.e. - If you can't even do an oil change properly, how can I trust you for anything else?
 

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#107 ·
ha, did first oil change on my own at 40K and couldn't even tell the clips were supposed to be there - already gone along with 1 of the 10 screws! true, remaining 9 hold the cover just fine, but still this is some shoddy dealership work. also could barely get the filter canister out, over tightened for sure!

I posted my oil analysis results in another thread, but will post it here too. Excessive fuel dilution could be a common issue for all unsuspecting T8 owners:



any thoughts/tips on this issue are much appreciated!
 
#104 ·
Thanks for all the info! I just did ours a few minutes ago. Much easier than I was thinking it would be. My only issue was the force that the hot oil comes out of the drain with! Glad I put down some cardboard ;) I might end up putting a Fumoto drain valve on here next time. It sure makes it easy on my Silverado to drain the oil.

Thanks again to the OP! Couldn’t have done it without this!
 
#105 ·
Thanks for all the info! I just did ours a few minutes ago. Much easier than I was thinking it would be. My only issue was the force that the hot oil comes out of the drain with! Glad I put down some cardboard ;) I might end up putting a Fumoto drain valve on here next time. It sure makes it easy on my Silverado to drain the oil.

Thanks again to the OP! Couldn't have done it without this!
Same here. Wifey's XC90 is due for the final (free) dealer oil change, after that I'm installing a Fumoto.
 
#110 ·
I was thinking about this Fumoto thing... But since the effective drain hole is smaller than that of the drain plug, I would assume that the oil would STILL shoot out like a water gun... Don't you think?
You can buy a Fumoto with a nipple that let's you attach a hose to direct flow.
 
#108 ·
Hmm... the last time I had a "bad" oil report (I get all 8 of our cars analyzed), I ended up dumping the car. This would fit that category for me. I would take a sampling at 5k to see if it would improve. But I've never run a hybrid. Even so, I wouldn't think this was normal. I would run the car hard and hot (to burn any fuel in the oil) before taking another sample. But if the oil level keeps getting higher, time to trade it in...
 
#112 ·
yeah, I'll do another change just before the warranty runs out later this year and see if results improve. Hard and hot is the way to go for sure, as I think driving a plug-in hybrid essentially amounts to excessive start and stop usage pattern, which is the primary suspect for oil dilution. Fuel is not burning off completely and is seeping through piston rings into the oil I guess? Would asking for a cylinder compression test at the dealership be of any use?

Also a more frequent oil change schedule wouldn't hurt, since diluted oil loses its viscosity quicker. And I'll add some Liqui Moly Cera Tec next time around for just that reason too.
 
#113 ·
I had a loaner T8 recently, and I was surprised at how often the ICE/battery start/stop was activating. Especially when the air temperatures were 110+ degrees, and 170+ degrees on the asphalt. This did not settle well with me whatsoever.
 
#114 ·
Our 'free' oil changes are over so I took the opportunity to install a Fumoto valve F-104

Turns out... it doesn't fit despite being the part brought up by both Fumoto and Amazon! There is interference with the engine when threading it in.

You also need this extension piece:
https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-ADP-104-Adapter-Extension/dp/B0043QQVIC
 
#117 ·
Hi, thank you for the very helpful post - I am a little confused about the amount of engine oil - you mentioned 6.2 quarts. I have a 2019 XC90 T6 engine, according to Volvo's website, it calls for 5.6 liters or 5.92 quarts. Can you let me know where you got the 6.2 from? Probably not going to make a huge difference either way. Thanks again.
 
#118 · (Edited)
#120 ·
Weird. Same engine, right? It's almost like Volvo had a typo in the manual for the first couple years. They say 6.2qt/5.9L, then later change the spec to 5.9 qt. I changed the original post accordingly so as not to mislead anyone.

For my own work I'll just split the difference and call it "6 bottles." Easier to remember.
 
#122 ·
Hi all,
I'm a master tech who works at a retailer and can clear up a few details regarding oil changes.

The screws that hold the lower protection plate aka belly pan are not T27 but are T30.

As for capacity, early engines had a larger oil pan that can be identified by having two large rectangular extensions on it across the back side near the drain plug. These engines take 6.2L on refill.
The later engines as in the type pictured in this topic have an oil pan that is flat across the back and they take 5.9L. You can use the internet for the conversion to quarts.

As for T8's, the procedures are the same but keep the ignition key at least ten feet from the car so the ICE doesn't start on it's own for some reason. (ask me how I know!)
 
#123 ·
Hi all,
I'm a master tech who works at a retailer and can clear up a few details regarding oil changes.

The screws that hold the lower protection plate aka belly pan are not T27 but are T30.

As for capacity, early engines had a larger oil pan that can be identified by having two large rectangular extensions on it across the back side near the drain plug. These engines take 6.2L on refill.
The later engines as in the type pictured in this topic have an oil pan that is flat across the back and they take 5.9L. You can use the internet for the conversion to quarts.

As for T8's, the procedures are the same but keep the ignition key at least ten feet from the car so the ICE doesn't start on it's own for some reason. (ask me how I know!)
Pretty sure it's T27. Here's another post that confirms it:

Since you're a tech: Is it ok to throw away that 'belly pan'? Does it really offer any protection? Seems to be just a splash guard. Thanks
 
#125 ·
Changed oil again recently, ran out of the Pennzoil 5W-30 that was previously 'approved' but now is not. Went to the dealer and bought a 6-pack of the Volvo $pec oil. Not sure if our engine is the 6.2L or the 5.9L model and I don't care - I put in 6 quarts ("Good enough is good enough" - Mikhail Kalashnikov)





Added the Fumoto Oil Valve this time. Note the spacer piece that is required for it to fit, otherwise part of the engine interferes with it. Although the alignment is less than ideal and the body of the valve ended up pointing 'down' it still doesn't protrude beyond anything else down there. Don't think my wife will get it caught on twigs or such. I know these are controversial but I run them on all five of our vehicles since it makes a DIY oil change much easier.

 
#126 ·
Changed oil again recently, ran out of the Pennzoil 5W-30 that was previously 'approved' but now is not. Went to the dealer and bought a 6-pack of the Volvo $pec oil. Not sure if our engine is the 6.2L or the 5.9L model and I don't care - I put in 6 quarts ("Good enough is good enough" - Mikhail Kalashnikov)





Added the Fumoto Oil Valve this time. Note the spacer piece that is required for it to fit, otherwise part of the engine interferes with it. Although the alignment is less than ideal and the body of the valve ended up pointing 'down' it still doesn't protrude beyond anything else down there. Don't think my wife will get it caught on twigs or such. I know these are controversial but I run them on all five of our vehicles since it makes a DIY oil change much easier.

Do you mind me asking how much you paid for the oil?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
#131 ·
It was around $10-11 per quart. Rather expensive IMO, but that's the law of supply & demand. Once it's on Amazon prices will drop. My other cars get Costco synthetic 0W-20 which is just $25 for 10 quarts! I'm hoping that eventually someone is brave enough to start running something like that through their XC90, or any other widely available synthetic (eg. Mobil1)
 
#132 ·
It was around $10-11 per quart. Rather expensive IMO, but that's the law of supply & demand. Once it's on Amazon prices will drop. My other cars get Costco synthetic 0W-20 which is just $25 for 10 quarts! I'm hoping that eventually someone is brave enough to start running something like that through their XC90, or any other widely available synthetic (eg. Mobil1)
I called two dealers I use. One does not sell it to customers, and the other does. They quoted about $9.30/quart. This is close to Amsoil's pricing. So I will be buying a bunch from the dealer very soon.

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#134 ·
If you are looking for oil filter wrench housing removal tool that will fit the Volvo 2.0L version, the link below has a solid wrench that will no snap or break under pressure. Its one solid piece with no welding spots. Worked well on all of my Volvo's - 2016 XC90, 2017 S60 Polestar and 2018 S90 Inscription/Polestar Optimized.

 
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